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Injection Pump Failure Again

Thats good news, if they were grey I would have to start concidering if I wanted to carry them any longer. Thanks.
 
Youve gone through two new Stanadynes. Impressive. Are you using a thermal pad between the PMD and heatsink, or some thermal grease?

Is your alternator output a little high? Ever more than 14.4V?

14.69 volts with negative probe on battery post closest to Alternator and positive probe on battery cable coming from the back of the Alternator,truck set on fast idle at 1100 rpm's!
 
Test ran the truck today, ran fine! I guess I had another bad PMD! Picked up the Lawn Trailer from my Sister-in-laws house and brought it home for Mowing Season and the truck ran fine!
 
14.79V may be a little high, does it keep going up with RPM? You can run a scanner while driving it, or just have someone rev and hold the engine at 2000rpm while you test it.


If the alternator's internal regulator isnt holding the voltage at 14.4 like its supposed to and it keeps going up with RPMs you might be at 15.5V cruising on the hiway at 65mph. There is a code for system voltage too high, but it doesnt code until 16V for 109 minutes :) At least that on an OBD1 truck and its a tranny code, so I dont know if guys with manuals have any codes for that. The PMDs voltage range may not be as wide as other components. OBD2 trucks I believe have another code for it.
 
14.79V may be a little high, does it keep going up with RPM? You can run a scanner while driving it, or just have someone rev and hold the engine at 2000rpm while you test it. I'll have my Wife hold the Accelerator Pedal at 2000 and I'll check the Voltage at the Alternator as before!
 
14.79V may be a little high, does it keep going up with RPM? You can run a scanner while driving it, or just have someone rev and hold the engine at 2000rpm while you test it. I'll have my Wife hold the Accelerator Pedal at 2000 and I'll check the Voltage at the Alternator as before!

Just be careful :eek:

I have aligator clips so I can put meters in the window while I do stuff in the cab.
 
Test ran the truck today, ran fine! I guess I had another bad PMD! Picked up the Lawn Trailer from my Sister-in-laws house and brought it home for Mowing Season and the truck ran fine!

Im slow, so are you saying the one I sent is bad? (please say no):D
 
OK. Well send it back I'll get another one out to you. Sorry for the problem.

Not your fault it failed but I am trying to check everything possible as I don't want this to happen in another month! Also,I am curious in the price difference of the D Tech and a 6 ft. Cable for it. Can I use my Stanadyne #9 resistor with it or will I have to buy another for the D Tech?
 
Not your fault it failed but I am trying to check everything possible as I don't want this to happen in another month! Also,I am curious in the price difference of the D Tech and a 6 ft. Cable for it. Can I use my Stanadyne #9 resistor with it or will I have to buy another for the D Tech?

Grey Stanadyne cables cost me more because of the gold plating and the connector cost more.
You can sand off the polarity tabs on the resistor, BUT then you have to be very carfull not to get it in there wrong as there will be no way to line it up and you could install upside down. Best to just buy another.
 
Grey Stanadyne cables cost me more because of the gold plating and the connector cost more.
You can sand off the polarity tabs on the resistor, BUT then you have to be very carfull not to get it in there wrong as there will be no way to line it up and you could install upside down. Best to just buy another.

But It seems to me like the Stanadyne IS the problem and I am willing to spend more Money on a Cable/D-Tech/#9 Resistor Combo if it will stop this from happening again! That way I will have The D-Tech Package and as emergency back-up, the Stanadyne Package.
 
But It seems to me like the Stanadyne IS the problem and I am willing to spend more Money on a Cable/D-Tech/#9 Resistor Combo if it will stop this from happening again! That way I will have The D-Tech Package and as emergency back-up, the Stanadyne Package.

OK, I thought you were asking why the Grey cable cost more.
The Dtech or FS PMD kit cost the same, but is less than the Stanadye kit because the cable cost less. I actually have a very good offer on the FS PMD right now $205 for FS PMD and #9 resistor. Heat sink and cable is $89. so, $294 for a kit. If you don't need/want the heat sink take off another $40
http://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/showthread.php?t=21485
 
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OK, I thought you were asking why the Grey cable cost more.
The Dtech or FS PMD kit cost the same, but is less than the Stanadye kit because the cable cost less. I actually have a very good offer on the FS PMD right now $205 for FS PMD and #9 resistor. Heat sink and cable is $89. so, $294 for a kit. If you don't need/want the heat sink take off another $40
http://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/showthread.php?t=21485

I'll keep my Grey Stanadyne 6ft. Cable from you but return the Grey Stanadyne under Warranty and buy the D-Tech/Cable and #9 Resistor without the Heatsink, how much is the difference?
 
I'll keep my Grey Stanadyne 6ft. Cable from you but return the Grey Stanadyne under Warranty and buy the D-Tech/Cable and #9 Resistor without the Heatsink, how much is the difference?

Are you going to return stanadyne resistor also?

Asuming not the difference is $99.00
If returning resistor $69.00
I'll pay shipping to you.
 
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