• Welcome to The Truck Stop! We see you haven't REGISTERED yet.

    Your truck knowledge is missing!
    • Registration is FREE , all we need is your birthday and email. (We don't share ANY data with ANYONE)
    • We have tons of knowledge here for your diesel truck!
    • Post your own topics and reply to existing threads to help others out!
    • NO ADS! The site is fully functional and ad free!
    CLICK HERE TO REGISTER!

    Problems registering? Click here to contact us!

    Already registered, but need a PASSWORD RESET? CLICK HERE TO RESET YOUR PASSWORD!

Injection Pump Failure Again

My friend is putting a cummins engine in his 98 gasser ram. He was told he cant put a 12 valve in due to non obd-2. Would this be the same with an obd-2 gm? Like going from ds-4 to db-2? Just an interesting question. My friend has to put a 24v in if he is going to swap, which fortunately he found.
 
bison said:
i got a couple APP's on the shelf,might be to far for ye.
Click to expand...

Thanks but I think Alberta is a far stretch from my neck of the woods! I would drive within a 150 mile radius of Cincinnati,Oh. for a new one if it did not have to be purchased with the Pedal Assembly as GM requires! The one I checked today had an ohm reading of over 7K on on of the three sets of pins!
 
Let me go check mine again, thought I read 4.5K across the reference input and PCM ground, and maybe 3.5K from reference input to sensor feedback. I also have another in the garage I can find and check.
 
DieselSlug said:
My friend is putting a cummins engine in his 98 gasser ram. He was told he cant put a 12 valve in due to non obd-2. Would this be the same with an obd-2 gm? Like going from ds-4 to db-2? Just an interesting question. My friend has to put a 24v in if he is going to swap, which fortunately he found.
Click to expand...

that doesnt make any sense. they had 12 valve cummins trucks in production in 98.
 
bobbiemartin said:
And this is different to a DS4 in what way? BTW, I do not add additional lubrication to my fuel and my DB2 has not died an early death. I don't think a DS4 does very well without a functioning lift pump. There are more DS4 "fixes" for sale and threads on how to keep one working on virtually every 6.5 website out there than I can count. How many places sell "fixes" for DB2s? How many threads on all of the failures of DB2s? Yes, like any mechanical component, they will eventually wear out. I wouldn't consider normal wear a failure.
Click to expand...

Its not different, thats exactly the point, they both fail. If youre using #2 ULSD and not adding lubrication its tempting fate, and if youre using #1 LSD or any percentage Biodiesel then its beside the point. All the stuff is out there for the same dang reason, a PMD, which is not the pump itself. One fix and its all good, big deal. Its fairly easy to keep the DS4 happy, and its not expensive.

Having the precision and simple reprogrammability of electronic injection is a plus for me.

There are certainly 6.5 N/As with DS4 electronic injection. Its called an L49 engine option. They began in 1994 as well. The military also uses DS4s now I believe. After 1993 I think the only commercial vehicles with DB2s were vans, and only until 95 I think.
 
MAGNUM SERVICES said:
Thanks but I think Alberta is a far stretch from my neck of the woods! I would drive within a 150 mile radius of Cincinnati,Oh. for a new one if it did not have to be purchased with the Pedal Assembly as GM requires! The one I checked today had an ohm reading of over 7K on on of the three sets of pins!
Click to expand...

I checked my APP again, since you were seeing higher resistance, and I did find that APP sensor 3 is a little more than the other two on mine. Maybe I rechecked one of the first two twice. I guess it would have been much easier to just pull it off the truck too, instead of twisting under the steering wheel.

So APP1 and 2 were 3-3.5kohm across the 5v reference and ground pins, but APP3 was about 5kohms across same set of pins.

The other areas varied too, and APP3 had about 6kohms between the sensor signal and the sensor ground, which was the highest I measured. That one dropped to 4kohm when I pushed pedal in.

What I noticed was that the resistance between the 5V reference and the sensor signal pins would vary 2Kohms with full pedal travel. Same with resistance between sensor signal and sensor ground. The resistance across the 5V reference and sensor ground pins should stay constant.

Now your APP sensor 1 might be bad since both of the ones I have, are significant lower resistances on sensor 1. That shouldnt stop it from working unless another sensor is failing intermittently too or you are losing signal somewhere else. It should operate fully with 2 out of 3 APP sensors.

The one at the salvage yard may be OK if it has the 2kohm change in resistance with pedal travel.
 
Today I will mount the new/used APP and test run the truck! Let's hope all is well in 6.5 Land! I'll keep ya' posted on my results! Again, Thanks to all who replied and most of all, Thanks for sharing the Knowledge! Keith
 
O.K., installed used part and ran the truck from idle almost to redline several times, rpm's climbed and fell as they should and truck didn't stumble a bit and no lights came on! That is good, now for the test drive!
 
FAILED! Ran fine in the driveway, made onto the street and about ten houses away it quit with no lights or warning! Restarted and quit three more times and finally would not start at all! Let sit for 1/2 hr. while walking to the house to get tools! Fired right up and turned around and drove back to the house where it sits in the driveway!
 
quits with no codes. This is different than problem before right, where it ran but no throttle response?

When you put PMD to the bumper was it a new PMD and where did you get the extenstion?
 
buddy said:
quits with no codes. This is different than problem before right, where it ran but no throttle response? Exactly, engine ran but no throttle response before but didn't quit!

When you put PMD to the bumper was it a new PMD and where did you get the extenstion?
Click to expand...
New Gray Stanadyne PMD and Extension Cable From Leroy on the Vendor page! Truck restarted after sitting and drove back home! 7 psi fuel pressure gauge under the hood before the IP, can hear LP running before starting truck and opening Bleeder on Filter gives a strong stream of fuel. I am going to let it run in the driveway while working in the yard and if it quits and won't start back, crack an Injector line to see if it is getting fuel!
 
When it died did you lose anything else, like the radio and gauges? The SES light should have been on and check gauges and such. If not you could have an ignition switch issue.
 
buddy said:
When it died did you lose anything else, like the radio and gauges? The SES light should have been on and check gauges and such. If not you could have an ignition switch issue.
Click to expand...

Didn't notice as I was going down hill and these trucks are hard to steer and stop without the Engine running the Power Steering Pump. NO SES light at all. Ignition Switch, is this common? I know it's 14 yrs. old with 145,000 miles on it so that is always possible but why wouldn't it start right back? It cranked over fine with two one yr. old Batteries fully charged!
 
The thing with the IGN switch is it could burn contacts the provide power to the PCM or PMD and ESO but still provide power to the starter. And it would be intermittent. And it is common.

The reason the SES or check gauges light is important when it stalls is that means the PCM and instruments are still powered, and it should be with the IGN in the run/on position when it stalls. If not then you know its an ignition switch problem. Also every single time you switch the IGN to ON/Run you should get WTS/GP and an SES light on until you crank. If not PCM is not getting power.
 
buddy said:
The thing with the IGN switch is it could burn contacts the provide power to the PCM or PMD and ESO but still provide power to the starter. And it would be intermittent. And it is common.

The reason the SES or check gauges light is important when it stalls is that means the PCM and instruments are still powered, and it should be with the IGN in the run/on position when it stalls. If not then you know its an ignition switch problem. Also every single time you switch the IGN to ON/Run you should get WTS/GP and an SES light on until you crank. If not PCM is not getting power.
Click to expand...

I do get wait to start and glow plug light when starting but when it quits no lights come on. It was idling in the driveway for ten minutes and started stumbling but would stay running, then eventually quit. I could start it back and let it run another five minutes or so with it stumbling like it was running out of fuel and then quit, but hard to restart. Confusing and frustrating as I need my truck in the next few days for Lawn Care Season!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top