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I hope the 6.5L fleet does not revolt....

tanman_2006 said:
Lift pump goes right in front of the fuel cooler just in front of the fuel tank.
Click to expand...

Yes, but I noticed that they want you to replace the steel line with rubber all the way to the tank, and I was wondering if I could use the OEM steel line and just break the line at the rubber flex portion. Ya know, OCD reasons, nothing else. :)
 
I cut and spliced in the soft line. When I sold the truck I spliced them back together with a hose barb and hose clamps. Just had to add a few feet to make the loops.
 
Some put there lift pumps bolted right onto the tanks metal shield, and just run a rubber line to the pickup at the tank. Common points for air to get introduced are the primer pump at the filter head, the o ring where the fuel heater stud comes through the filter head, and any rubber line on the engine or near it.
 
I am liking Tanner's idea of cutting it at that rubber short line under the driver's seat.

Asfar as the primer pump and o-rings, is there a rebuild kit from GM, or an aftermarket source? if many aftermarkets, any one better than others?

Thanks!
 
GM Guy said:
I am liking Tanner's idea of cutting it at that rubber short line under the driver's seat.

Asfar as the primer pump and o-rings, is there a rebuild kit from GM, or an aftermarket source? if many aftermarkets, any one better than others?

Thanks!
Click to expand...
Yes, napa, advance, and several of the online retailers all sell a filter head seal kit.
 
well, local GM dealer has a complete filter assy, head, filter, all the sensors, ready to bolt on, plug in and go for 120 bucks. worthwhile?
 
$20-$30 for the oring kits, but if you have access to bulk orings Buna will work, but viton is best.

I did the top half only on friends truck matching up o rings from bulk and it took 5 minutes. The primer ones are lipped, but ours was a midnight fix no parts available, so I tried it. It doesnt hand prime, but cranking it fired up and no more air intrusion. Ordered kit and he fixed it right next service.

I wouldnt bother with a new assembly imo. $100 extra. what does the filter alone cost nowdays?
 
List price from GM for the filter is $60, but they normally sell them for $40. The o ring kit is less than $20 last I checked from advance or napa.
 
Figured I would update this thread, and then ask a question for a buddy.

Bought the complete filter housing with new filter, something was sucking air in the head, as the new housing fixed the issue.

I plan on rebuilding the OEM one and putting it back in service, and moving this new one to the LB7 project at some point, unless the plastic bleed screw threads happen to be 3/8 coarse, as that is what the PO has in there, I think the housing is junk after that awesome idea, and the LB7 filter head is horribly expensive and someone said the LBZ one bolted right on.

Part 2, buddy has a 06 CCSB 2500HD, LBZ Ally 4wd.

He is doing some upgrades, and found a retailer selling a FASS Titanium. First off, is that the best unit, or is the airdog any better? Second, do either the Airdog or FASS offer a splice-less wiring harness to make it work?

He allready did the exhaust, no idea what he got, and he wants to do the intake, which I am trying to steer him towards staying stock on that.

Plans on a future EGR delete.

I told him that intake money might be better spent on a Amsoil bypass kit. Which brings up the question, what is the best route to take on that? get the complete re-route for both bypass and full flow, or leave full flow where its at and install the sandwich adapter and just do the bypass? Any drill-less solutions for this too?
 
The factory intake is good to 600HP, and actually flows better than a lot of the aftermarket stuff. Show him the PPE data on that, it's good stuff.
 
The stock lbz box is good to 500hp provided you use a quality filter in it. The aftermarket cai kits are actually a huge step down in filtering, and you won't flow anymore air as the stock box is already more than enough. The bleeder screw us a m10x1.50 iirc, definately not an sae thread. You can use the lly,lbz,lmm filter head on an lb7, but you need longer fuel lines to make the hoses work(lly+ filter heads sit higher up, and have the lines angled down because of it). Don't waste money on an egr delete, 99% of the deletes end up havi,g to have the passenger side up pipe replaced when tbe egr bellows expands and cracks off leaving a huge exhaust leak. A blocker plate works just as well, only takes a matter of minutes to put in, and don't give problems down the road with exhaust leaks.

As to a bypass filter, thats your call. I would spend the money on a good tine before I would a bypass filter.
 
Factory Wix XP and Mobil 1 got me clean oil at 10k intervals.

I have a nicktane adapter on my fuel filter and the wix replacement was only $10
 
OK, finally getting around to changing t-stats. Alternator died, so what better time to deal with it. :) Also kinda suprised how much alts are for these. Got a used OEM one for 90 bucks out of a salvage yard off ebay so I didnt have to pay the dealer price. Frankly I think used OEM trumps alot of these cheapie auto parts store new ones.

Does the black coolant tube need to be taken loose at all? Tried separating the thermostat housing from the engine and it does not want to come. Thinking about getting a wood block and a hammer and lightly tapping.
 
You have 4 bolts that hold the top housing to the y assembly, and 1 bolt that holds the coolant tube into the upper housing. I always pull the oil fill tube, and slide the housing out the front.
 
I have not got it apart yet to see what I have, but I was double checking part numbers, and it appears there is not only the t-stat orings, but also a housing gasket?

I assume the gasket is not re-useable and I need to make a run to town?
 
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