• Welcome to The Truck Stop! We see you haven't REGISTERED yet.

    Your truck knowledge is missing!
    • Registration is FREE , all we need is your birthday and email. (We don't share ANY data with ANYONE)
    • We have tons of knowledge here for your diesel truck!
    • Post your own topics and reply to existing threads to help others out!
    • NO ADS! The site is fully functional and ad free!
    CLICK HERE TO REGISTER!

    Problems registering? Click here to contact us!

    Already registered, but need a PASSWORD RESET? CLICK HERE TO RESET YOUR PASSWORD!

I got the 6.2 blues

I hate to say it but your both right, rnight and aces. the 3 pass tightening is for the standard bolts not the TTY version. the TTY setup is 2 passes(can't remember the LBS) and the 90.
 
The water bubbles is on both sides. I didn't know the head bolts were supposed to be done the way you said, because it would be very hard (if it's even possible) to do some in the back.

So the next thing I should try is to clean the water and oil off real good in the area there under the VC then try the pressurize test again by way of radiator pressure tester? Then if there's know visible leakage move on to the pressure test with air (which is how I was doing the pressurize test via the radiator, is there another way?) but first bypass heater core (which is already done because it went bad the other day) and bypass the radiator (which I'm not sure how to do that, I guess I would need a different type of tester?)

Sorry for all the questions, I'm just new to all this. But if it's possible the blocks not cracked then my 6.2 blues would be gone...hahaha

Also I want to think you guys for helping. Your information is much appreciated.
 
Acesneights1 said:
Yeah I don't remember the exact procedure but what he described is not it and AFAIK all the Auto Parts store carry TTY.
Click to expand...

TTY is 20 ft lbs first pass, 50 ft lbs second pass, then 90* for the final. A torque angle gauge is very helpful for the final 90* turn.

To the OP, make sure that when you torqued the heads down you did it in the proper sequence. You have to do it in a outward spiral pattern(starting from the inside and working your way to the outside). For what it's worth whenever i do headgaskets after completing the pass(be it first or second pass at a set torque) i take the torque wrench and check each and every bolt in the same pattern, just to be safe.
 
RNation said:
I didn't know the head bolts were supposed to be done the way you said, because it would be very hard (if it's even possible) to do some in the back.
Click to expand...

Its completely doable. Take your time. You'll want a good sized breaker bar to take them 90* past the second tq. Before you start turning bolts on the 90* pass, you'll wanna look at the space around the bolt and find a path where you can get the rotation you need without something in the way causing you to have to reposition your path if its possible. An angle gauge is nice but not really neccessary for 90*. Just think of a quarter turn.
 
A breaker bar was my best friend doing that job. no worrying about hurting it and it still can fit into a small space. the only one I found was a PITA was the rear bolt on the drivers side.
 
I would not put air pressure into the cooling system unless you had a reall good way of regulating it. By uing the pump pressure tested you essetially are putting air pressure behind it. If you are getting it on both side in the heads there is only 2 "Likely" ways it's getting there and should be easy to see under pressure. It's either:
A) Coming up around the headbolts due to improper installion
B)coming up the pushrods through the lifters due to breach in the lifter bores

so look carefully and see if the water is IN the rocker arms or coming around the bolts. If all the bolts are leaking, I would probably get new bolts and HG;'s and do the job again. Do not mill the heads unless there is a reason to. Milling them raises the compression ratio and special oversize HG's would then be needed.
 
I was talking to my friend that helped me do the head job and he said maybe it has to do with the pushrods and rockers. We tried to put them back the same way they were but perhaps we did something wrong there? We did notice after the head job with the air breather of there was a noise like a low drawn out drum (hard to describe the noise real accurately), but it was coming from around the VC's. So is there something we might have done wrong while reinstalling the pushrods/ rockers that might cause this scenario?
 
Well......Push rods and rockers have to go back exactly where they came from and push rods oly go one way but that would not cause a coolant leak, just premature wear on the valve train. I've even seen people mix the pushrods and rockers up and it still ran fine. Most important is which way the push rods go in. There is an engine build Sticky by MGW in the 6.2/6.5 stickies which tells which way they go, I forget but I think the copper side goes up but I don't remember. We can't see your motor so all we can do is go by what you tell us. You need to figure out where that water is coming from, pushrods or headbolts. That will decide whether to repair or boat anchor it.
 
Acesneights1 said:
I think the copper side goes up but I don't remember. it.
Click to expand...

Yep, copper end up at the rocker arms.

Don't rule out a crack in the head between a cooling passage and the rocker galley. Though cracking both heads sure seems unlikely.

Leaks in both heads past the bolts seems unlikely too, given that he used new bolts with the pre-coated thread and shoulder sealant. Could simply under-torquing the bolts lead to leaking past the gasket into the rocker galley above? Can't think of a pathway for that offhand... oh wait... maybe the CDR pulling the mist and vapor from a seeping HG up into the valve cover?

Aces is right about regulating the air pressure if you try testing the cooling system that way. But getting 60psi in there would sure help you track it down by sound or sight (soap bubbles) if the regular pressure tester (20psi?) isn't getting the job done.

Whatever it takes to find the damn leak... at least that way you're not yanking the motor if it's not necessary.
 
Dont put more than 15-20 psi to the system if you still have the radiator plumbed in, more than that and you will split the radiator
 
RNation said:
How can I pressurize the system with out the radiator on?
Click to expand...

I've used short pieces of round stock (of correct diameter) with the worm clamps. Works like a charm. Just cinch them down tight, and go easy with the pressure, turn it up in 5 psi increments, chances are that 30 - 40 psi will get you the result you're looking for... a hissing sound. 15 - 20 psi is plenty to make soap bubbles. Once you can hear it, you'll know where to point your spray bottle of soap solution.

Be sure to listen to the oil pan too... either through the dipstick tube If the oil is empty) or the oil filler tube.
 
redshift96 said:
Yep, copper end up at the rocker arms.

Don't rule out a crack in the head between a cooling passage and the rocker galley. Though cracking both heads sure seems unlikely.

Leaks in both heads past the bolts seems unlikely too, given that he used new bolts with the pre-coated thread and shoulder sealant. Could simply under-torquing the bolts lead to leaking past the gasket into the rocker galley above? Can't think of a pathway for that offhand... oh wait... maybe the CDR pulling the mist and vapor from a seeping HG up into the valve cover?

Aces is right about regulating the air pressure if you try testing the cooling system that way. But getting 60psi in there would sure help you track it down by sound or sight (soap bubbles) if the regular pressure tester (20psi?) isn't getting the job done.

Whatever it takes to find the damn leak... at least that way you're not yanking the motor if it's not necessary.
Click to expand...

I am thinking he did not torque the heads properly. He pretty much said he didn't. I would just like visual confirmation of water coming past the bolts before wasting time and money doing the HG's again.
 
Did the machine shop actually pressure test your heads? If not, then I would say based on that and what your describing is cracked heads. Oil in the coolant means there is a crack somewhere in the cooling system as oil pressure is higher than coolant so it gets forced into the coolant easier. Highly unlikely its a head gasket as you had this problem before you took it apart.
 
So far from examining the heads closely it's just too hard to tell where the waters coming from. There is rust spots around the areas where the VC's screw into the head. Theres also a little hole in the inside front of both heads that appears to run parallel with the floor, and that hole seams to have water sitting around it also.

I don't believe the machine shop pressure tested the heads, I think they gave a hot bath and magnafluxed it. But if the heads weren't cracked before I think they could be now because it had over heated on me and got to 240*.

As far as pressurizing the system without the radiator, I don't believe I have the equipment or understanding to do it accurately.

Another thing I am wondering is before I had a lot of oil in coolant, and one the possibility's were a cracked lifter bore. After flushing the system and getting a new radiator I still have a LOT of oil in coolant. Since I got a new radiator does that leave the lifter bore as the culprit or could it be the heads now?

On another note I found a fellow with a 6.2 motor minus the heads for $300 plus shipping. He said it was from a car lot that had hail damage and he got it off his friend (who owns a junkyard). He said the motor sat in his barn for 10 years and now he's trying to clean up a bit. This would be a good deal if everything he says is true right?
 
I would honestly say at this point, you need heads at the bare minimum. Its possible the original owner froze it.

Used engines sitting around scare me but if your getting it cheap, then I would tear it down and inspect, hone and new rings.
 
What type of issues arise from engines sitting around? Also this engine, according to what I'm told it has zero miles on it. He said it was sitting on a car lot.
 
RNation said:
What type of issues arise from engines sitting around? Also this engine, according to what I'm told it has zero miles on it. He said it was sitting on a car lot.
Click to expand...

All depends on how they were stored. If the bores are clean, IE no rust and no signs of water damage, I would still pull the pan and have a boo at the bearings, if it does look new, then reseal the pan and put it in with some new heads.
 
A point that everyone forgot is :when the engine is shut off, the cooling system pressure is greater than the oil pressure. The coolant will go into the oil.
If the engine was run with water or anti-freeze in the oil the bearings are history.
A engine that has sat for 10 years should be opened up to check the cylinders for rust. Just the condensation from temp change will rust them. I'd offer less than $300 for it.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top