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Help a Brother Out #2

Years of doing wheel bearings a person knows when it is good.
Finger tight on the nut then backed off slightly, after the bearing has been fully tightened then backed off to completely loose.
Hold the left side of the brake drum with the lalm of the left hand and hold the right side the same with the right hand, alternately grip and release the backing plate with the fingers while feeling and watching for movement of the drum/hub. If no movement is felt then back off the nut about a 1/4 turn at a time until You can feel or see a very slight movement between the hub and the axle. Then slowly tighten the nut down until that movement is just gone then stop. Install the rest of the retainer devices, washer and jam nut or possibly just the jam nut and tighten down the jam nut and bend the tab washer over a flat or a corner of the jam nut.
Slightly backed off from finger tight should be good, or, the adjuster nut just bumped up to the bearing.
Keep trying and feeling that adjuster nut until You are satisfied that it is not too loose or too tight.
 
Ok I'm off the next 3 days after today.. so I'll be able to try and figure this truck out.. hopefully.... For now I'm going to try something... I'm gonna cut that under sized brake line and crimp it off.. leave the piece that sticks out of the wheel cylinder wide open and try to back off the brakes..I know it seems like a waste, but if I can back them off and the wheel spins free in the air I'll know where the problem is a little better..if it still drags, death to the e-brake cable..lol..I think I can get the wheel cylinders local, Delco . Having trouble finding brake hose that's not store brand Though.
 
Hey guys- whats that copper mix brake line Thats better to run?

go soak the heck out of those brake line connections every time you walk by the truck.
The more you soak it and longer it soaks the better.

Gibbs is the best over all but cost $16 a can. Worth it imo. Second place over all is liquid wrench but only cost $4

here is the final shoot out video.

If you watch the first video he does other brands and includes the atf/acetone mix and it would be 3rd place over all and the cheapest of all. Maybe you already have a little atf and acetone laying around. If so use it- mix 50/50.

 
If the flappy top computer is running windows, and You dont already have a homepage set, set TTS as the home page.
It can also be added to the favorites, then the menu pops down, select favorites bar, then TTS will be displayed right below the address bar.
To set TTS as the homepage requires going into the options and messing around in there. I dont remember all the details.
 
If acetone is not available, then I believe that something like brake and parts cleaner, lacquer thinner, or even mineral spirits can be used to mix with the ATF for a releasing agent. Anything that will thin the ATF to get it to travel the threads.
Another one that people seldom mention is regular old 3 in one oil.
 
Ok hopefully one of y'all will be on now... Got the side of the rear end jacked up that drags... Unscrewed the brake line from the wheel cylinder almost all the way.. enough so fluid came out ... I flattened the brake line about half way between the T and the wheel cylinder.... Turned the adjuster to loosen up the brakes... I can rock the wheel back and forth pretty easy if I remember right it won't spin all the way around because the other side is sitting on the ground. But it seems to rock back and forth without issue... I pumped the brakes to make sure the line wasn't going to leak where I pinched It off.. no leaks..am I missing anything? As I said I can grab the wheel and turn it back and forth but obviously the differential stops it from going very far with the other side sitting on the ground
 
Correct me if I'm wrong but if I remember right the self adjuster will not self adjust if the wheel cylinder is disconnected ,because even in reverse the brakes wouldn't get applied to that side with the line pinched off... I was always told to self adjuster does its thing when you're in reverse and hit the brakes
 
Stoney said:
Correct me if I'm wrong but if I remember right the self adjuster will not self adjust if the wheel cylinder is disconnected ,because even in reverse the brakes wouldn't get applied to that side with the line pinched off... I was always told to self adjuster does its thing when you're in reverse and hit the brakes
Click to expand...
If there's no pressure to the wheel cylinder or won't adjust the brakes
 
I have also seen where some ppl will in a pinch use a tiny nail placing it inside the tubing before connecting the wheel cylinder to stop the flow of fluid. but that is only used when you "Gotta" go and can't fix it right away.
 
if you do that or having it pinched off, jack up the rear if the truck (both sides) stabilize it with stands and block the front wheels on flat ground. drop it in gear where the rears are spinning to maybe 10 mph and stomp the pedal a few times. then check to see if the wheel starts to drag like fluid gets past into WC. having one wheel up in the air you can drop it in neutral and you should be able to spin the wheel by hand.

but I would jack up both so you can compare the drag between the two.
 
I'm at work now..not that we're actually doing anything..lol... But I'll try that tomorrow... On the way in it felt better than it did before and that drum is not hot now... With the dragon feeling still persists.. the rotors felt pretty warm... But not as bad as that drum was getting.. the pedal is being weird... Sometimes I got really good hard pedal... Other times it's a little softer..
 
with the front acting like there dragging a bit, you could check to see if there are any casting numbers on the MC that might help determine if it's the correct one. also it won't take but a few minutes to unbolt the MC from the HB and as your doing it look to see if the rod is pushing on the MC piston. also measure the diameter if the bore where the piston sits. just to get the idea of incorrect MC or rod out of the way. once that is clear I would say look into replacing the rubber hoses on the calipers.

an easy check on the hoses is once you've verified the rod isn't pushing the MC piston in is to jack up the front and try spinning the wheels. mash the brake pedal release it and try spinning the front wheels again. if one seems stiffer than the other then try cracking that bleeder on the caliper to see if it frees up. both wheels should spin freely with very tittle resistance. sometimes it's best to have a helper in the cab to press the brake while you try turning the wheels immediately after they release them.

if cracking the bleeder a tad releases the wheel, replace the hose on that side. bleed air and re-check.

something else... are the wheel bearings not too tight. I don't know if they have to be opened up when changing the rotors on a 4x4 but on a 2WD the bearing are in the rotor where if that last person over tightened the preload that will also cause a light drag feeling and also heat up the hub, rotor, and brakes a bit until the bearings grenade on you.
 
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