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Help a Brother Out #2

If a tube happens to begin to kink, stop.
Pulling from both sides of the kink, slowly begin to straighten the bend/kink. The kink should pull on out most of the way.
If possible get something round, large socket, piece of pipe, etc and lay the bend out around that rounded object.
I too have tapped the edges of a kink that formed in a metallic tube and it has pretty much finished smoothing out the kinkadoo.
 
dbrannon79 said:
I may be wrong but dot 4 is basically dot 3 synthetic. I would think it should be fine as it says dot 3. Jut be sure to flush out all the old stuff.
What do when working on the brakes. To prevent the MC and ABS from getting air. While you have the system open like replacing lines or WC’s is jut keep the MC topped off as you work and let the open line drip into a cup or pan

your gonna need a tubing bender tool to shape the new steel line like the old one.
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You can also block the brake pedal partway down. I use an adjustable hood prop between the pedal and seat.once it's pushed ahead it won't let fluid run through and empty the reservoir. You can use a piece of wood also. Just make sure you unhook the battery if you're going to let it set overnight so the brake light doesn't drain the battery.
 
Grisley1958 said:
You can also block the brake pedal partway down. I use an adjustable hood prop between the pedal and seat.once it's pushed ahead it won't let fluid run through and empty the reservoir. You can use a piece of wood also. Just make sure you unhook the battery if you're going to let it set overnight so the brake light doesn't drain the battery.
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I would have never thought of that!
 
@dbrannon79 biggest problem with other truck is tires are probably dry rotted by now. I bought them brand new a couple months before I bought the dually... At that time I pretty much quit driving that truck.. I think the fuel pump is getting ready to go on it but that's no big deal... As far as for me by myself to be in it I can probably get it running and drive it... But there's no heat controls in it, and no door panels on the inside so needless to say it would be very cold.. for me by myself that's not a problem.. but to have my wife and 9-month-old in it in New York weather in the winter I couldn't... Let alone it's as a regular single cab so not very easy to put a car seat in it... It cost me a couple hundred bucks to get it on the road as far as registration and such. But it really needs to be on the road
 
@Stoney your truck is a dually where you have inboard drums and have to pull the wheel bearings down to get the drums off correct?

look on Amazon prime for the 18E1362 or WC37337 wheel cylinders. see what the delivery dates are for your location. unless you have another auto parts store in your area instead of "Vato-zone" I was thinking we could order them and get them to you maybe for this weekend or for when you have a couple days off work so you have some extra time to install them with the new brake lines. not to mention replace or disable the frozen parking brake cable.
 
My rear end is the kind where you have to pull the axel out and change the wheel seal when you put it back together.. not gonna lie, nervous about doing the wheel cylinder cause I've never done drum brakes by my self...used to have my bro to help with this kinda stuff.
Not sure what you mean by pull the bearings down.
 
that's what I wanted to know if you have to pull / replace wheel seals when pulling the drums. do you have all the tools to re-torque the axle nuts that set the wheel bearing pre-load when going back together?
 
drum brakes are fairly simple as long as you do one side at a time having the opposite side to look at as a guide for putting things back together. you can change the WC without pulling all the springs off and removing the brake shoes, it is a task though
 
dbrannon79 said:
that's what I wanted to know if you have to pull / replace wheel seals when pulling the drums. do you have all the tools to re-torque the axle nuts that set the wheel bearing pre-load when going back together?
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Who do what for how many Oreos??!
We never torqued anything in there. And what do you mean set the pre load?...I have the axel nut socket with the teeth on it.
 
The seals do not need to be replaced every time the drum/hub comes off. I replace them if it looks like they had been leaking, or, if I had to knock them out to replace the bearings.
If You are not sure of how to adjust the wheel bearings please ask. I know it is said to use a torque wrench but if a TW is not available then there are other methods that can be used.
 
lol I don't torque anything ether! but like Mr Marty said they do need to be adjusted correctly. I want to make sure you have everything on hand and have the knowledge so when you pull them, you can get back on the road quickly. @Will L. can probably tell you best on how to get it done lol.
 
Ummm.... Hypothetically speaking what would happen if you did pack them with grease I don't remember I can't remember if we packed the bearings with grease... As I said we've changed to them probably three or four times. But it's probably been a year since the last time... And I honestly cannot remember if we put grease in the rear bearings... My brother and some of the other guys that have worked with me on it are pretty damn good mechanics so I don't think they would have made that kind of mistake... But my memory ain't s*** so I can't remember it...
 
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