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Help a Brother Out #2

Ok. That wouldn’t work too well for say this weekend. You’d have to pay extra shipping to get them by this Saturday.

I would say for starters. See if the cable is in fact froze and causing the brake drag. Cut that cable as close to the drum as you can. The. We can possibly explore other options to get all the parts together
 
After installing the brake cylinders and getting the shoes and slack adjusters back on, check how the slack adjusters function. Look at the position of the slack adjuster arm and how it rotates the rowl on tje adjuster. Extra attention to this. Now imagine if the shoes is too tight and needs to be backed off. While it is visible, poke a very small screw driver or a small pick device through the slack adjuster slot, push on that slack adjuster arm and watch how it moves away from that rowl. You will need to know this procedure when adjusting the brakes, even try turning the rowl with Your adjuster tool while the arm is pushed away. Remember this procedure.
It is okay to pack rear wheel bearing with grease. And then install the seal. Lube sealing surfaces. 80-90 gear oil or whatever weight of gear oil You have will work to lube the seal and the axle shaft, where the seal rides and also where the bearings ride.
After sliding the hub/drum onto the axle, snug down the inner axle nut, rotate the drum while tightening, tighten it real tight, then, while rotating drum, back it off. Jiggle and wiggle the brake drum, You want to just barely feel a very slight amount of wiggle on the drum to the axle shaft, not turning wiggle, just slight slack in the bearing wiggle. Install the outer jam nut and tighten it down good and tight, if there is no locking mechanism to bend over a flat then You do not want that nut coming off. Once it is tight, now wiggle the brake drum, there should be a very very slight to no wiggle at all and the drum should freely spin on the axle.
You do not want the bearing too tight, that will burn up the bearings and races and could get hot enough to crystalize the axle shaft.
I would rather feel a little wiggle than smell bearings burning.
Now You can adjust the brakes. I like to adjust them out so that they are very tight against the drums then try rotating the drum both directions. This will help to center the shoes on their pads. Now with the very small screw driver, push back that adjuster arm then start backing off the brakes by turning that rowl. When they are far enough off that they barely make a sound when the drum is being spun then just leave them alone for now.
Bleed the brakes on out. After they are bled out then step down on the pedal several times. Get out and rotate the drums. Shoes might need to be adjusted out some more.
When the brakes is about right, they will further self adjust if the hardware is all in good condition.
Just be careful the first several stops and if the shoes needs further manual adjusting then the back will need to be lifted and the shoes adjusted.
 
MrMarty51 said:
After installing the brake cylinders and getting the shoes and slack adjusters back on, check how the slack adjusters function. Look at the position of the slack adjuster arm and how it rotates the rowl on tje adjuster. Extra attention to this. Now imagine if the shoes is too tight and needs to be backed off. While it is visible, poke a very small screw driver or a small pick device through the slack adjuster slot, push on that slack adjuster arm and watch how it moves away from that rowl. You will need to know this procedure when adjusting the brakes, even try turning the rowl with Your adjuster tool while the arm is pushed away. Remember this procedure.
It is okay to pack rear wheel bearing with grease. And then install the seal. Lube sealing surfaces. 80-90 gear oil or whatever weight of gear oil You have will work to lube the seal and the axle shaft, where the seal rides and also where the bearings ride.
After sliding the hub/drum onto the axle, snug down the inner axle nut, rotate the drum while tightening, tighten it real tight, then, while rotating drum, back it off. Jiggle and wiggle the brake drum, You want to just barely feel a very slight amount of wiggle on the drum to the axle shaft, not turning wiggle, just slight slack in the bearing wiggle. Install the outer jam nut and tighten it down good and tight, if there is no locking mechanism to bend over a flat then You do not want that nut coming off. Once it is tight, now wiggle the brake drum, there should be a very very slight to no wiggle at all and the drum should freely spin on the axle.
You do not want the bearing too tight, that will burn up the bearings and races and could get hot enough to crystalize the axle shaft.
I would rather feel a little wiggle than smell bearings burning.
Now You can adjust the brakes. I like to adjust them out so that they are very tight against the drums then try rotating the drum both directions. This will help to center the shoes on their pads. Now with the very small screw driver, push back that adjuster arm then start backing off the brakes by turning that rowl. When they are far enough off that they barely make a sound when the drum is being spun then just leave them alone for now.
Bleed the brakes on out. After they are bled out then step down on the pedal several times. Get out and rotate the drums. Shoes might need to be adjusted out some more.
When the brakes is about right, they will further self adjust if the hardware is all in good condition.
Just be careful the first several stops and if the shoes needs further manual adjusting then the back will need to be lifted and the shoes adjusted.
Click to expand...
Exactly like he said!
 
Stoney said:
@dbrannon79 biggest problem with other truck is tires are probably dry rotted by now. I bought them brand new a couple months before I bought the dually... At that time I pretty much quit driving that truck.. I think the fuel pump is getting ready to go on it but that's no big deal... As far as for me by myself to be in it I can probably get it running and drive it... But there's no heat controls in it, and no door panels on the inside so needless to say it would be very cold.. for me by myself that's not a problem.. but to have my wife and 9-month-old in it in New York weather in the winter I couldn't... Let alone it's as a regular single cab so not very easy to put a car seat in it... It cost me a couple hundred bucks to get it on the road as far as registration and such. But it really needs to be on the road
Click to expand...
Can you give us a little more info on the other truck like model, year ect. Maybe someone has some of the parts that you need to get it going with a little comfort. Depending on how long they have been sitting, the tires may still be fine.
 
Im actually thinking of asking buddy to help me get it home to the house my next days off.. I expect it's gonna take some doing to get it started. Been sitting on his dad's property for about a year , year and a half..
I know I have to get new tail light assemblys for it . Heater controls , inside door Handle and panels.. there's other things but I'd have to get it here to look. It was a real loyal truck.. just beat to hell. I bought the dually cause I needed a hauling truck. So figured one day I would restore the other one..then marriage happened... Then kid happened... Then buying old fixer upper house happened so that truck kept getting put on the back burner.
 
I might have a heater control. I pulled a radio out of a 2000 cab and chassis at the bone yard a while back and I think I grabbed the heater control too even though some of the mounting tabs were broke. I'll have to look when I get home. are your windows electric or manual and what color are the door panels? The ones on the truck at the boneyard were manual windows and gray door panels
 
When PM II servicing trucks and changing differential lube.
I would cover as much of the fill hole as I could with a thumb and the dispenser nozzle to the top and fill it that full.
After getting the fill plugs in, there was an area in the back yard I would drive the truck to, drive the truck onto a steep slope with one side downwards, let the truck set like that for about four or five minutes then turn it around and repeat for the other side.
After leaving the back yard, back into the shop and check the differential fill levels.
Usually the fluid level would be right at the bottom of the fill hole. Good to go.
It never happened to Me, a couple of other mechs, they’d fill the diffs then go out and hit the road, several times theyd come back after the road test with smoked bearings.
 
MrMarty51 said:
When PM II servicing trucks and changing differential lube.
I would cover as much of the fill hole as I could with a thumb and the dispenser nozzle to the top and fill it that full.
After getting the fill plugs in, there was an area in the back yard I would drive the truck to, drive the truck onto a steep slope with one side downwards, let the truck set like that for about four or five minutes then turn it around and repeat for the other side.
After leaving the back yard, back into the shop and check the differential fill levels.
Usually the fluid level would be right at the bottom of the fill hole. Good to go.
It never happened to Me, a couple of other mechs, they’d fill the diffs then go out and hit the road, several times theyd come back after the road test with smoked bearings.
Click to expand...
I agree. I always lube them with the axle lubricant or a little grease. You need the lube to properly set preload anyway.
 
Pre-load is where the inner and outer bearings are set into the hub, then the axle nut is torqued down to a specific tightness. on some axles you will have two axle nuts similar to double nutting something. others might have a crush coller that slides in between the inner and outer bearing. the first nut is tightened down to say 50 ft lbs, then a lock tab washer is installed, then a final nut that gets tightened to say 250 ft lbs. all the while you are slowly spinning the hub to make sure everything is free and no stiff spots.

don't use that guide, that was just an example.
 
all wheel bearings that use tapered roller bearings will have a preload setting. think of the front wheel bearings on a 2WD hub. you have the rotor which houses the inner and outer bearing race and wheel seal. then you have two taper roller bearings you pack with grease, install on the hub together with the rotor, install the castle nut and usually only snug it up just enough to slide the cotter pin through the spindle and castle nut. that "snug" action is the preload ( there are torque specs for that but most don't use them ). you don't want to over tighten but don't want to have it so loose that there is play ether.
 
I've done hundreds when I worked as a heavy truck equipment mechanic. And probably close to that on my and friends vehicles. Torqued to specs and backed off or just tighten and then back off and they pretty much wind up in the same place when done. Tightening the bearing to start is to make sure your bearing cups are seated, especially if you just replaced them. Once sure they are seated you can back it off and then tighten about as tight as you can tighten the socket by hand would be just about right.
 
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