FellowTraveler
Well-Known Member
Good, so in order to see the images I would need chrome or its extension "I'll pass."
Using the 2nd gen Cummins CAC you still can use the factory AC components.
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HE351VE with functional VGT on 1997 6.5L
- Thread starter Chewy1576
- Start date
Using the 2nd gen Cummins CAC you still can use the factory AC components.
I have been wondering what CAC's will fit and allow for AC. Will it fit around the 6.5L radiator? My AC is inop right now anyway, had to ditch the dryer to make room for the HE351VE, so I was just going to ditch the condenser when I install.
FellowTraveler
Well-Known Member
Custom AC fab should be easy for you and should be the last component of your project however; with a little relocating the condenser downward will work.
Removed both inner fenders today to get access to the battery tray bolts and get a look at what kind of space I have for a CAI for the turbo. Also getting a feel for what trimming of the core support is needed for a CAC. Seriously considering a universal CAC and mounting in place of the AC condenser similar to this. I'll be taking the grill off now to get at it from the front side and remove the condenser. I was only planning to move the batteries to the bed and build the CAI this round, but might as well jump in head first and go for it.
Attachments
FellowTraveler
Well-Known Member
Battery tray bolts are removed without removing the inner wheel wells there are two on each wheel well and two bolted to the brackets through the radiator support which is accessed after grill is removed.....
I noticed in that screen shot that the radiator in that vehicle is small like for a small block chevy so exactly what are you working on a diesel gasser or?
Anyway, a 2nd Gen Cummins CAC will fit flush to the radiator support another words behind the leading edge of the support.
I noticed in that screen shot that the radiator in that vehicle is small like for a small block chevy so exactly what are you working on a diesel gasser or?
Anyway, a 2nd Gen Cummins CAC will fit flush to the radiator support another words behind the leading edge of the support.
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FellowTraveler
Well-Known Member
I may be doing just this for my Burb using the same approach as the HMMWV had extending only the grill opening on the MIL/commercial dual sealed beam grilled forward.
I found that after getting the inner fenders out. I wanted to do it anyway for other reasons, but still good to know. The driver side was a PITA anyway lol.
The CAC I'm considering has a core 24"x12"x3", overall width is 31" with tanks attached.
FellowTraveler
Well-Known Member
Here are some images of the 2nd gen Cummins CAC installed in 99 GMT425 Burb.
You make it look like it was supposed to be there from the factory! I arranged to pick up a Cummins intercooler from a part out truck today. I will have time after Christmas to get it fitted and figure out piping. Thanks for the look!
FellowTraveler
Well-Known Member
I looked at every angle before I cut the rad support for the 2nd gen CAC and made sure the diagionals would remain in place too.
FellowTraveler
Well-Known Member
Factory ones? NO!
FellowTraveler
Well-Known Member
The factory brackets mount to the rad support in front of the CAC above and below see the image I posted with the side view see the bolts for the brackets and for the hood latch bracket assembly too..........
FellowTraveler
Well-Known Member
Now when you get to the upright battery brackets you cut the bottom front to clear the CAC in/out & CAC pipe couplers the inner wheel wells will need slight cutting too at the inner fronts later to b covered by sheet metal or mud flap rubber...
Husker6.5
135' diagonal 16:9HD, 25KW sound!
You know, about ten years ago I bought both a 2nd Gen Ram CAC and a 1st Gen Duramax CAC for a (still) future upgrade project because I wasn't sure which way I wanted to go (and still aren't) with the GM CAC and how @THEFERMANATOR did it by moving the CAC/rad stack back a few inches, or leaving the rad where it is and putting the Dodge CAC in front of it and moving all the coolers forward.
The biggest question with going GM, is with the balanced flow WP the bullet proof low temp fan clutch and Dmax fan on the 6.5 if there is going to be enough "safe" distance between the front edge of the fan and the radiator core.
With the Dodge CAC the issue becomes lack of clearance behind the grill (I want to maintain my quad light LT grill for several reasons) for the CAC and the various coolers PLUS the transmission cooler I would like to add that GM didn't seem inclined to make OEM. With that, I've already imagineered spacer standoffs to move the grill forward about five inches, (which would leave a big gap to the front edge of the fenders, but more than enough room for the CAC and cooler stack) and as I hate the useless OEM front bumper, and think the very limited selection of aftermarket bumpers (basically Ranch Hand's) for the GMT-400 that just don't have the look I'm looking for, of making a serious deer liquifier for the front bumper that would incorporate an 8' long (roughly) 14"x4"x1/4" piece of C channel that would be reinforced from behind, cut and bent to replicate the OEM bumper angles around the front (I don't care about the up angle cut to expose the front tires like the Ranch Hand and other do for ground clearance, I want the front protected from Bambi darting in front of me at 85mph on the Interstate at midnight) and mounted on HD extended bumper brackets to move it forward 5". I would build in pockets for fog and driving lights, an air dam underneath, winch/fairlead mount, 2" reciever, shackle mount points, a massive Bambi Bar with 1/4" plate upright braces and massive headlight protector bars and then two 1/4" side impact plates on each side that would act as visual "fillers for the gap between the front edge of the fender and the extended grill.
For the rear, same C channel for the bumper and make a lockable but removable swing-away spare mount that would get the spare out of the cargo area if I need more room back there, so it would look similar to a van barndoor-mount spare carrier, except more centered on the doors to expose the taillights and with the ability to swing on a vertical axis (not like the kind that lays down) so that both barn doors can be accessed fully open on their door stop straps with the spare pivoted out of the way. It wouldn't interfere with anything hitched up to the Burb because it wouldn't lay down and hit the tongue and still prevent opening the barn doors, it would swing out towards the driver's side.
The biggest question with going GM, is with the balanced flow WP the bullet proof low temp fan clutch and Dmax fan on the 6.5 if there is going to be enough "safe" distance between the front edge of the fan and the radiator core.
With the Dodge CAC the issue becomes lack of clearance behind the grill (I want to maintain my quad light LT grill for several reasons) for the CAC and the various coolers PLUS the transmission cooler I would like to add that GM didn't seem inclined to make OEM. With that, I've already imagineered spacer standoffs to move the grill forward about five inches, (which would leave a big gap to the front edge of the fenders, but more than enough room for the CAC and cooler stack) and as I hate the useless OEM front bumper, and think the very limited selection of aftermarket bumpers (basically Ranch Hand's) for the GMT-400 that just don't have the look I'm looking for, of making a serious deer liquifier for the front bumper that would incorporate an 8' long (roughly) 14"x4"x1/4" piece of C channel that would be reinforced from behind, cut and bent to replicate the OEM bumper angles around the front (I don't care about the up angle cut to expose the front tires like the Ranch Hand and other do for ground clearance, I want the front protected from Bambi darting in front of me at 85mph on the Interstate at midnight) and mounted on HD extended bumper brackets to move it forward 5". I would build in pockets for fog and driving lights, an air dam underneath, winch/fairlead mount, 2" reciever, shackle mount points, a massive Bambi Bar with 1/4" plate upright braces and massive headlight protector bars and then two 1/4" side impact plates on each side that would act as visual "fillers for the gap between the front edge of the fender and the extended grill.
For the rear, same C channel for the bumper and make a lockable but removable swing-away spare mount that would get the spare out of the cargo area if I need more room back there, so it would look similar to a van barndoor-mount spare carrier, except more centered on the doors to expose the taillights and with the ability to swing on a vertical axis (not like the kind that lays down) so that both barn doors can be accessed fully open on their door stop straps with the spare pivoted out of the way. It wouldn't interfere with anything hitched up to the Burb because it wouldn't lay down and hit the tongue and still prevent opening the barn doors, it would swing out towards the driver's side.