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HE351VE with functional VGT on 1997 6.5L

ak diesel driver said:
So does your standalone controller have different modes you can choose from so you could kinda have a, normal position,race position, tow position?
Click to expand...

It doesn't, but you can change ratio targets on the fly through a laptop. The Banshee software application has a gauge screen where you can monitor data in real time. This is also how you would generate datalogs.

Another function that I dont have set up just yet is the exhaust brake. You can program an exhaust pressure target (say 10 psi), so when the brake switch is on, the throttle is closed, and not pressing the brake pedal, the controller will drive the actuator to maintain 10 psi of exhaust pressure, like an exhaust brake. When the throttle or brake pedals are depressed, the controller goes back to normal function.
 
So cost of turbo, and the controller (saw banshee 2 for $750) and whatever parts to adapt it to manifold of flange side and intake/exhaust plumbing alterations. Is there any other components needed?
 
Custom oil feed and drain hoses. I built the feed out of 4 AN stainless braided hose and fittings, Quadstar built the drain tube. The HE351VE also needs a coolant feed to cool the actuator. I drilled out the alternate side ports and tapped them for 1" hose barb fittings, then plumbed it in line with the heater core supply hose. Then the original coolant ports need to be sealed and plugged. Quadstar also supplied those, also a support bar because it's a BIG turbo and will sheer the manifold off the side of the engine if not given extra support. I used 1/4" copper tube to plumb from the intake and exhaust manifolds to ther sensors mounted on the firewall as well.
 
Failure rate hasn't concerned me. I'm aware of the maintenance needs of the turbo (mostly cleaning the turbine housing on regular intervals), it even states it needs to be cleaned out in the owner's manual, but who actually follows that? Use of the exhaust brake even helps keep them cleaned out to prevent the most common failure mode.
 
That is part of what Chris’s coating his takes care of.
When i was a Mac Tools distributor, I went to multiple dealerships that delt with these. Putting around and never working the turbo seemed to be the biggest culprit.
Soot build up is what gets cleaned.
Coatings obviously help, so would a wmi system and of course gapless rings. Not having the exhaust behind the turbo restrictions also helps.

Since I don’t own one to say the difference myself, I can’t give details, but i sure heard the techs talk about them. I had one offered to me for free that sooted up in under 20,000 miles, but parts manager decided he wanted it so I lost out. Back then no one could control them outside the truck. If I knew then what I know now- would have paid the $200 mechanics core and grabbed a stack! Oops
 
When talking with Steed while troubleshooting an issue with my setup (it ended up being a dead actuator, no issues with the Banshee), he said most dealerships will remove a nonfunctioning turbo, throw it in a scrap pile, and put a new one back on.

I'm interested to see how the coating does on the interior of the housing, I would be interested in this if it does what we think it will do. I'm also interested in how much of a difference a thermal coating on the exterior of the housing would do as well. I have a PTP turbo blanket on the housing right now, but it would be a second option for thermal control under the hood.
 
When I worked at the plastics to fuel company, we had huge cylindrical pyrolysis tank that cooked plastics from solid to liquid then vapor. Obviously soot was a nightmare.
It had to be cleaned out for us to work in there.

I got the owner to get it coated- huge difference. Went from a guy with a hotsie and 2 guys with scrub brushes for 2 hours down to 1 guy 25 minutes. Most of the area came of with a splash from garden hose. Only right where the burners centered required the pressure washer, and it was just faster. The burners were putting out flames 2’ diameter 6’ long- a hit of heat there. Really a guy could wipe that area with a rag and get 95% of it.
We had a guy that used techline coatings- same brand Chris uses- absolutely the best in the world. If I had known then Chris did it, we would have flew him out here for the job.

That cylinder was 40’ long and 10’ diameter- that was pricey. Sad part is that plant is dormant now.

That 25 minutes included him setting up and putting away the hotsie.
 
Chewy1576 said:
When talking with Steed while troubleshooting an issue with my setup (it ended up being a dead actuator, no issues with the Banshee), he said most dealerships will remove a nonfunctioning turbo, throw it in a scrap pile, and put a new one back on.

I'm interested to see how the coating does on the interior of the housing, I would be interested in this if it does what we think it will do. I'm also interested in how much of a difference a thermal coating on the exterior of the housing would do as well. I have a PTP turbo blanket on the housing right now, but it would be a second option for thermal control under the hood.
Click to expand...

The draw back in coating the inside is the ring has to be cut in a couple pieces to get it out, that requires a new ring purchase..

A new nozzle assembly is required @ 250-300$ then the housing and assembly gets coated, not a easy job, but it is guaranteed to stop the sticking, this is done by myself and other shops quite a bit so nothing to guess about...

The assembly I bought didn't have the "filters" , that is a big part of what causes the sooting to clog stuff up...

And a thermal coating on the outside of the housing does good but it won't compare to a well made blanket, if looks are important coating is the way to go, if blocking heat is wanted a thick blanket is the way to go... I wrap everything, all the pipes & mannies...
 
I have a second turbo assembly on the shelf that has damaged nozzle fins because the plate seized in the housing and the nozzle crashed into it. I have considered repairing it, putting on a refurb actuator, and reselling it but I dont think it's worth it return wise.
 
There's someone on ebay selling new assembly's already "Isonite treated " as well, I sent mine off before I knew about him and had it done and still coated it as well..

I went new when I purchased mine, too many bad cheap sellers to know what your buying so you may be right, not worth the rebuild...
 
I have had it listed for a few hundred bucks as a rebuildable core, but no bites. I'll probably end up scrapping most of it. I'll keep the stock compressor housing with forward exit for my IC install later.
 
I don't know why this never came up in my searches but seems like the LBZ/LLY intercooler is the way to go. Now if I can just get the Photobucket pics to work...

Duramax Intercooler Install

Here's a write up on how to install a duramax intercooler with very little carving to the truck and still get to keep A/C and doable in a weekend. Now keep in mind that my batteries are in the box in the pictures because i thought they would of been in the way for the install and was done...
www.thetruckstop.us
 
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