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Hard Cold Start

It's never smoked like this in the past 7 years. It only smokes until all cylinders are firing correctly. Almost like a switch is flipped.
 
ak diesel driver said:
So you think it should get hot in 5 secs not 10? If so what would you look for? I'm going to replace the controller/relay tonight. Also it does start better with the new duraterms.
Click to expand...

If it's getting 12 ( may actually be 11+ volts while under load) volts to the plug and it takes more than 5 sec. to full glow, the plugs are bad. With new glow plugs it's unlikely

Check your connections at the glow plugs

Leo
 
You might need to explain better whats actually going on, what you hear, feel, and see, because sounds like youre now saying its missing? How long does it do that?

Make sure you try jumpering ECT harness with a 300 ohm resistor, which would stop the cold advance.
 
Goes without saying perhaps, but I'll say it anyhow. Clean/re-install all your battery terminals, do the batt bolt mod if still using factory side posts, cut the round insulation off the terminals, and check the crossover cable for coorosion.

Make sure both batteries are good.

Glowplugs ground themselves to the block I would think? If not clean the ground that the controller uses? Also as mentioned make sure each clip that the glow's connect too are good, clean and tight.

I get NO smoke whatsover after 2 seconds starting at 40+. No GL-Chip, No fancy override systems.
 
NVW said:
If it's getting 12 ( may actually be 11+ volts while under load) volts to the plug and it takes more than 5 sec. to full glow, the plugs are bad. With new glow plugs it's unlikely

Check your connections at the glow plugs

Leo
Click to expand...

Connections at glows are tight made sure when I installed new ones.
 
buddy said:
You might need to explain better whats actually going on, what you hear, feel, and see, because sounds like youre now saying its missing? How long does it do that?

Make sure you try jumpering ECT harness with a 300 ohm resistor, which would stop the cold advance.
Click to expand...

Nearest resistor I could lay my hands on is at least 30 miles away more likely 70. Before I switched to the duraterms I sometimes wondered if it would start at all. Had to crank it multiple times. Now with the duraterms I usually only have to actually crank it once but will stumble and smoke seems like forever but probably only 10-15 secs.
 
Matt Bachand said:
Goes without saying perhaps, but I'll say it anyhow. Clean/re-install all your battery terminals, do the batt bolt mod if still using factory side posts, cut the round insulation off the terminals, and check the crossover cable for coorosion.

Make sure both batteries are good.

Glowplugs ground themselves to the block I would think? If not clean the ground that the controller uses? Also as mentioned make sure each clip that the glow's connect too are good, clean and tight.

I get NO smoke whatsover after 2 seconds starting at 40+. No GL-Chip, No fancy override systems.
Click to expand...

2 brand new batts with bolt mod cleaned all my grounds about 3-4 months ago. First and only time in 200k. I was going to put my new controller in last night but got tired and didn't will be in church most of the day maybe this evening.
 
ak diesel driver said:
That is something I'm working on but I don't think it's related cause I ran it for a month after the chip and then it suddenly started acting up.
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Why not swap the old chip/ecm back in.
You could have a glitch in that new chip causing problems.

did.nt you have a similair hard start/no pedal control as i had on my 98 a couple months ago?

a timeset and TDCO relearn solved that for me
 
This is probably timing related then. If you can at least verify there are no codes present and warm it up to 180* you can do the Key On Key Off Procedure (KOKO) with OBD2.

Is it stumbling while cranking or after starting?
 
ak diesel driver said:
That is something I'm working on but I don't think it's related cause I ran it for a month after the chip and then it suddenly started acting up.
Click to expand...

That sounds exactly like the computer is using its stored values and after 50 starts tries to do its own relearn and without proper timing everythings off key??
 
It doesnt relearn TDCO every 50th, thats the PMD fuel calibration resistor in OBD1.

Well at least I dont know that OBD2 does that. Thats why you have to do the KOKO procedure.

Need to find a scanner, ask Bison about this one :)
 
buddy said:
It doesnt relearn TDCO every 50th, thats the PMD fuel calibration resistor in OBD1.

Well at least I dont know that OBD2 does that. Thats why you have to do the KOKO procedure.

Need to find a scanner, ask Bison about this one :)
Click to expand...

x2 no 50 count cycle learn on OBD-IIs, need to ko/ko relearn with a scan tool to know current timing and TDCO
 
I have a scanner that I just bought and am still trying to figure out all the ins and outs. Also ordered some wrenches to make it easier to do. I would think that I should at least be able to get it back to where it was starting wise anyway. If making a living and building a house didn't interfer so much I'd probably have both issues worked out by now.
 
Well I changed out my glow controller. I took some before and after pics to see if there was any difference. First was my control pic 10 secs direct to batt. Second pic before changing controller. Third pic after changing controller. I know pics don't always do the same results as real life but it seemed to me the third pic was a tad brighter and got red a tad further up the shank. Proof will be in the pudding when I try and start tomorrow a.m.
 

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bison said:
Why not swap the old chip/ecm back in.
You could have a glitch in that new chip causing problems.

did.nt you have a similair hard start/no pedal control as i had on my 98 a couple months ago?

a timeset and TDCO relearn solved that for me
Click to expand...



I don't have the old chip anymore darn core charges anyway:mad2:

And yes I had a similar problem as you just not anywhere near as bad mine only lasted for a few seconds.
 
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