Got a 93 K3500...What to do with it ?

[Acesneights1]

slave with a rod.

 

[bk95td]

GM could have done much better with the hydraulic clutch. All plastic parts is just not right for a hydraulic system. Maybe a mighty-vac sucking the fluid through would work better than the pressure from the master. From what I hear it is very easy to make foam with the pedal.

 

[1995yukon65]

Kenny, I would go ahead and replace the master cylinder too. I believe in replacing both to help eliminate any issues. It's a good possibility that the master cylinder took a dump due to it traveling further than its used to due to the slave cylinder blowing. I've seen it happen a few times with brake master cylinders.

 

[Burning oil]

Really thats about all it can be. Just 2 parts, MC and Slave.

 

[Acesneights1]

everything new, still air. Didn't think about the vac pump. I have one but I am not sure how I could hook on. The bleed hole does not have a nipple.

 

[Acesneights1]

Dave had an interesting idea I did not try yet. Pulling the slave out and pushing the rod in with the bleeder open and reverse bleeding it.

 

[1995yukon65]

I guess just try to gravity bleed it. Open the blender and keep the master cylinder full

 

[Mike K3500]

I had to replace all the hydraulics both master and slave, on my 85 short box (gasser). I used the mighty-vac on the bleeder and pulled all the air and worked flawlessly. I personally would much rather have the hydro slave over the "Z" bar, just me though. I have had a pivot ball break off on a "Z" linkage (older truck) and the whole clutch linkage fell off going down the road.. I then had to wire nut the clutch safety wires together just to start the bitch in gear to limp home.. What a pain in the ace.


Mike

 

[iamdave0887]

Dave had an interesting idea I did not try yet. Pulling the slave out and pushing the rod in with the bleeder open and reverse bleeding it.

You compress the salve rod with the bleed closed. This way it forces air up through the master cylinder and it bubbles out the reservoir. I had to push the slave rod full stroke from one end to the other a few times. Then when finished i re-installed the slave and cracked the bleed open to see if any air was present. The second the bleeder opened i saw fluid.

I do have to change the hose going from the master to the reservoir though, it seems to get a little wet sometimes around the reservoir to hose connection yet the fluid level doesn't drop.

oh Kenny if you do put the NV4500 in your CUCV i have a few remote hydro clutch reservoirs here that were a stock GM item.

 

[Acesneights1]

OK, I got it better by changing the slave. Tranny still shifts like crap. I wonder if it's worth trying to change the fluid or is the tranny toast ? Also how do I tell if I have the granny low ? It apparently makes a huge difference of what fluid to use. BTW Truck runs awesome but the turbo is f'ed up. I cranked the TM in alot and still only see about 6 lbs of boost unless I floor it and it hits 9-10 real briefly. I think the wastegate is messed up. Truck is fun to drive other than thye tranny issues. The steering column's gonna end up in my lap. Stupid tilt column. I hope I can just tighten the scews and they are not broken off inside the column. Tilt columns are no good in a lifted truck.

 

[Acesneights1]

Put the right fluid in the tranny, no difference. The tranny is f'ed. I may cut this thing up yet. does the 93 have a tcm and wiring for a 4l80e ?

 

[88gmctruck]

Ok, so just to clarify: You have a new clutch, master and slave? Have you pulled the dust shield on the trans, then have someone depress the clutch so you can verify it's working properly? I know that new parts don't always work the way they are intended.

If the problem is clutch related, then it will be difficult to engage all the time, even if your sitting still. Can you with the truck running press the clutch, wait 10 seconds or so and put it in any gear?! You should be able to. If you can't, sounds to me like the clutch is still grabbing. If not, and the only problem you have is shifting it while moving, I bet the syncros are toast. Honestly, I'd just get a small syncro kit to start with, the transmission is super simple and almost bulletproof.

 

[iamdave0887]

Kenny try double clutching it(like you would a non-synchro trans). If it shifts better then I'd say the synchros are gone. That's really the only part that goes bad in the NV4500 from what i've found.

Perhaps it was shifted without the clutch and the synchros got chewed up? I know i can do that on my father's Dodge as i did it one by accident and it has the NV4500 in it.

 

[GM Guy]

Kenny, it doesnt matter which 1st and reverse gear ratio you have. it is just the castrol syntoq LT for ALL NV4500s.

 

[Acesneights1]

OK the castrol sync torq was not easily available so I bought the Dodge Fluid for nv4500(same stuff , used the part # mentioned earlier). No difference. If I push the clutch down once and try to put in in any gear it grinds. If I pump the clutch once or twice it will go in fine. Driving down the road every once in awhile it shifts ok but most of the time grind like a roadranger with a bad clutch brake.. Double clutching makes no difference but If I do it carefully I have been able to shift without the clutch(remember, I'm old school. I learned on a Mack Quadraplex aka Quad box). The tranny actually looks like it might hve been worked on as it was painted red. or maybe some moron painted it. Clutch still feels a bit spongy but is much better with the second new slave. the PO must have removed the guide strap off the new one he put in as it was missing. The bets price I got to rebuild it was 1500 OTC. I got the video from Quad 4x4. Gonna watch it and see if I want to tackle this. How hrad is it to just change the syncros ?

 

[Acesneights1]

My problem is the clutch "feels " like its disengaging but I have never owned a truck with a hydraulic clutch so I don't know what it "should" feel like. I know I don't like it.

 

[iamdave0887]

If you push the clutch once and it grinds, but you hit it twice and it works I'd say there's air in the system. If you pump the clutch the air compresses some and the clutch fork goes it's full throw.

That's why air in any fluid system is bad. It'll compress and take pumping of the pedal to get the normal air-less results.

 

[Acesneights1]

I hate to be pessimistic but I believe I have both air and a shot tranny. I am trying to reach the PO to see if the truck had any shifting issues prior to motor swap.

 

[Acesneights1]

Well found the low boost problem. The turbo waste gate is not working. It's jammed. Also I have no idea what turbo this even is. it has the sticker but no number on it. Also it did not line up exactly with the intake. Weird. So I put a GM4 on that actually came with the motor. it lines up perfect but the turbomaster fit different. Does it look like I installed it right ? I no longer have the install sheet for it. What the heck could the other turbo be off ? Also found the moron stripped the a/c lines on the condensor as well as there is a cut in the hard line for the High pressure. It's no llnger available so off to the hose shop. Luckily there is an a/c shop near me that can make any hose.

 

[ak diesel driver]

looks like you need some heat sheilding for those rubber lines