Got a 93 K3500...What to do with it ?

[Acesneights1]

Got the k47 from Justin(thanks) and was about to order an air filter then I took the cone one with the 3" abs elbow and looky how nice it fits...Hmmmm...what the hell is the difference between what I just did and the 300$ S&G one ?? Bill says the factory K47 is too big for the box and doesn't allow enough airflow...OK without disputing that either way, what i the difference from what I just did ? I am thinking about just leaving the K&N on it. it seems to fit real nice...Opinions ?
My biggest issue with just the cone and elbow that was on the truck was sucking all that nice hot air in from the engine bay but I think what I have now is just as good at the 300$ setup save for the fancy see through top....

 

[iamdave0887]

*shrugs* Dunno Kenny. That filter looks to small to me. An Amsoil nano-fiber filter like the one in my 96 takes up every bit of that airbox, and doesn't require oiling either. I'm acutally going to order one of their "universal" cone filters for the K-5 at some point.

 

[iamdave0887]

Got a leak what looks like it's actually coming from the center of the yoke ??

Yea it's common. My K-5s is leaking there too. There's a press in "plate" at the back of the yoke. The pressure of the yoke moving in and out can cause that plate to leak.

I tried everything with mine. Silicone didn't work. I had the plate removed, re-pressed in and tac welded in place. Still leaks. Highly annoying, but i'm learning to just check the t-case level more often.

A new yoke would probably solve your issue, but one of mine is ~$90 plus installation if you have a driveshaft shop swap it over. I'd bet your isnt too far off from that either.

The only way to solve it for good would be a slip yoke eliminator(if available for that t-case) and have a rear driveshaft built with a slip joint in it(like the front driveshafts have).

 

[3500GMC]

I've welded them in before. MIG. Degrease the daylights out it beforehand.

 

[Acesneights1]

I've welded them in before. MIG. Degrease the daylights out it beforehand.

How bout brazing it ? I'm pretty good with the brass...

 

[bk95td]

Looks like the driveshaft isn't into the transfer case far enough. Splined driveshafts aren't the answer either. My 70's trucks had them and they were shot before 70,000 miles. Maybe they've gotten better since then?

 

[buddy]

I actually prefer the looks and price of K47 airbox + amsoil Nanofiber over the S&G kit. But K47 airboxes are likely to become scare someday I suppose.

 

[3500GMC]

How bout brazing it ? I'm pretty good with the brass...

Hmm, that's your call. MIG will actually be cooler/quicker. Although I've not tried to braze one.

Sometimes there's a hole right in the middle of that disk too. GM tried to combat the leakage with a sleeve with an oring inside pressed onto the output shaft- common on 2WD stuff.

 

[Acesneights1]

I like the idea of eliminating it. Who makes the kit ?

 

[88gmctruck]

What a difference in clutch feel. Before it felt like a 73 K30 with a Long Style Pressure plate. Now it's like driving a friggin VW. I guess that was why I could not get it bled. It's perfect now and I did nothing except while I had the slave out I pushed it all the way in with the bleeder closed a few times.

SO glad to hear it's working proper now.

Kenny thats the old NV4500 in the pics?

That thing looks like it would literally fit right in place of where my SM465 fits. Looks to be almost the same size.

Do me a favor(when you can) and take some measurements of the length of the case(where it bolts to the bellhousing to the tail) and the distance from the trans mount area to the back where the t-case bolts to.

If it'll fit, i may actually hunt one down. Overdrive would be a real nice thing to have.

The t-case flange looks identical to mine. round 6 bolt flange.

Almost looks like the SM465 shifter would fit that top load hole, but i doubt it. For the hell of it, snap a pic of that too. :hihi:


Looking at the bellhousing pics, it looks just like the SM465 bellhousing save for the clutch fork/slave/etc is on the passenger side. I'd bet you'd be able to use a "SM465" bellhousing with the slave on the driver's side when you stuff the NV4500 into the CUCV. That way you can use an 80s style slave, clutch line, and master cyl. Everything would bolt right in.

NV4500 is much longer than a SM465 and the bellhousing pattern is different. IIRC the cast iron portion of the transmission is the same but the overdrive gear is in the aluminum tail extension. You'd have to use the whole NV setup and get custom drivelines.

Yea it's common. My K-5s is leaking there too. There's a press in "plate" at the back of the yoke. The pressure of the yoke moving in and out can cause that plate to leak.

I tried everything with mine. Silicone didn't work. I had the plate removed, re-pressed in and tac welded in place. Still leaks. Highly annoying, but i'm learning to just check the t-case level more often.

A new yoke would probably solve your issue, but one of mine is ~$90 plus installation if you have a driveshaft shop swap it over. I'd bet your isnt too far off from that either.

The only way to solve it for good would be a slip yoke eliminator(if available for that t-case) and have a rear driveshaft built with a slip joint in it(like the front driveshafts have).

I like the idea of eliminating it. Who makes the kit ?

http://www.jbconversions.com/products/sye/np241c_std_sye.php Not cheap, on top of having to get a custom driveline made. I personally want one but I found that a GMT800 driveline was 2" longer than my stock one, and worked perfect for the lift.

 

[Acesneights1]

Ouch, a new yoke is alot cheaper.

 

[iamdave0887]

Ouch, a new yoke is alot cheaper.

oh ya. Which is why i haven't gone with a slip yoke eliminator, and probably never will, unless i put a NP205 in. Then i'd just have the driveshafts re-built to fit.

 

[Acesneights1]

To my knowledge they never made an NP205 for Leftside F/O..Sucks. That is why Old square trucks are more fun to mess with.

 

[Acesneights1]

*shrugs* Dunno Kenny. That filter looks to small to me. An Amsoil nano-fiber filter like the one in my 96 takes up every bit of that airbox, and doesn't require oiling either. I'm acutally going to order one of their "universal" cone filters for the K-5 at some point.

The PO off this thing seemed to be a big customer of Walt so I think the air filter is one of his which makes me want to change it to a factory one..Was on his website today and it sure looks like it.

 

[bk95td]

The PO off this thing seemed to be a big customer of Walt so I think the air filter is one of his which makes me want to change it to a factory one..Was on his website today and it sure looks like it.

If it's one of walts and you take it off you will lose at least 5 mpg and 40 hp:rolleyes5:

 

[iamdave0887]

The PO off this thing seemed to be a big customer of Walt so I think the air filter is one of his which makes me want to change it to a factory one..Was on his website today and it sure looks like it.

Walt's filter is just a K&N. I'm not a fan of any oiled filters, regardless of brand.

 

[Acesneights1]

If it's one of walts and you take it off you will lose at least 5 mpg and 40 hp:rolleyes5:

:rof:

 

[Acesneights1]

Glow plugs are cycling too fast and the high idle is not working...is it that sensor in the crossover that controls all that ? It did work ? The glow controller was replaced a month ago. I don't think the high idle goes through the glow controller so I'm thinking the coolant sensor...

 

[iamdave0887]

Glow plug time should be handled by just the controller. It's an "all in one" setup with input from the "start" wire going to the solenoid from the ignition.

High idle/cold advance are controlleb by the sensor in the passenger side rear of the head. This "sensor" is an on/off switch that's activated by temperature. Engine temp rises above ~120*F and the switch turns off, cutting power to the cold advance/high idle solenoids. Mind you i'm going off my 6.2, but the engine's are identical save for displacement, until you go into 94 with computer controls then the sensor locations change some.

 

[bk95td]

Glow plug time should be handled by just the controller. It's an "all in one" setup with input from the "start" wire going to the solenoid from the ignition.

High idle/cold advance are controlleb by the sensor in the passenger side rear of the head. This "sensor" is an on/off switch that's activated by temperature. Engine temp rises above ~120*F and the switch turns off, cutting power to the cold advance/high idle solenoids. Mind you i'm going off my 6.2, but the engine's are identical save for displacement, until you go into 94 with computer controls then the sensor locations change some.

High idle and cold advance on the 93 heavy 3/4 and 1 tons is all done only by the temperature SWITCH in the crossover.The light 3/4 and 1/2 tons 6.5 and 6.2 use the 2 separate switches. One in the rear of the passenger side head and the switch in the crossover. I never did understand the need for the extra switch bs on the 1/2 and light 3/4s.