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Got a 93 K3500...What to do with it ?

What to do with this truck...

  • Cut it up for parts

    Votes: 1 4.5%

  • Fix it and sell it

    Votes: 2 9.1%

  • Fix it and keep it

    Votes: 10 45.5%

  • Voluntary commitment to a mental institution for diesel addicts

    Votes: 10 45.5%
  • Total voters
    22
The alt gauge still reads higher than actual. Anyone with a 92-94 ...where does your gauge read ? If you go by the numbers I'd say mines reading about 16.5. It's just below the red. As far as the temp, I have not measured actual but 210 could be right. It looks like someone used a rad from a gasser. It's tiny compared to the one in my burb. The sending unit in the head is from the 95 motor but Advance said 93 and 95 used same sending unit, not that I trust them either.
 
Give the dash a whack for the alt gauge. it could be stuck from reading so high. The one in the K-5 liked to stick sometimes, but it would read low until i gave the dash a whack then it would come back up to around 13.5 or so.

A rad from a gasser would drop in since AFAIK it's the same rad support for gas/diesel but i dunno if all the connections would hook right up. The 93 still had the rad cap on the actual radiator as opposed to a surge tank correct? It could be that your used to seeing the newer style with the surge tank setup.

That or someone really did use a gasser radiator, considering the prices i've seen for the diesel radiators. :eek:
 
Alt gauge is not stuck, it moves when you turn the key on/off or drops a little if you turn on the lights glows etc, just IMHO reads the voltage wrong.
 
Acesneights1 said:
Anyone with a 92-94 ...where does your gauge read ?
Click to expand...

My 94 points at 14 V with no accesorys on. With lights, A/C, etc it will drop a couple tic marks on the guage, but still reads 13.5 ish with a multimeter at the battery. If I turn the turn signal on, with the lights and a/c on, the needle will flick lower with the pulsing of the turn signal.

New batteries, new 105 amp alternator, clean grounds and alternator wires, 4 gauge wire from battery to alternator....
 
Hmmmmm....So why is my gauge reading so high ? I can't even test at the gauge as I'd have to unplug the dash to get to the back of it unless I run a couple temp wires off it to test.
 
Where does the needle set when the key is off? Maybe the needle is in the wrong position on the shaft. I had this happen with the speedo needle on an old Crown Vic. I had to take the needle off and re-set it so that it sat in the correct resting position. I don't know how the needle moved, but it has been correct since I re-set it. Mavbe something similar has happened to move the needle into an incorrect position on the shaft.

Don
 
Nothing in the service manual for a gauge that reads too high. Only too low and that has you chase loads. I wouldn't worry about it.
 
Does your clutch pedal go smoothly all the way to the floor, or does it have a catch or a pop part way down? The pivot ball for the clutch fork is bad about wearing out. The clutch should be pretty easy to push, easier/smoother than an older mechanical chevy clutch. The bleeder is on the bottom IIRC of the slave, WTF were they thinking, IIRC one time I had to pull the slave and invert it to where the bleeder was more on top.

That sucks they put a tiny gasser radiator on there. I bet it looks tiny. The copper radiator that is supposed to be there is huge. The diesel core support is notched out wider for the radiator. I didn't know that till I started my cummins swap. Did they hack up your shroud also to fit the smaller radiator?
 
For the gauges that you can determine the levels of elsewhere (voltage, fuel, and possibly temp?!) just reset the needles. They aren't the most accurate anyway. Pull the lens off the cluster, and put it back in the truck. Use a fork or something similar and pull the needles straight up (don't pry). They will just pull off the bases. Start the truck and put the needle on where it should be. So for voltage set it at 14 or whatever your multimeter is showing, do the same if you have a known full tank of fuel, temp, etc.

Should fix the off readings, unless the steppers are screwed but it seems they are working just fine. No other explanation for it really than the needles aren't installed in the right position.
 
midniteplowboyy said:
Does your clutch pedal go smoothly all the way to the floor, or does it have a catch or a pop part way down? The pivot ball for the clutch fork is bad about wearing out. The clutch should be pretty easy to push, easier/smoother than an older mechanical chevy clutch. The bleeder is on the bottom IIRC of the slave, WTF were they thinking, IIRC one time I had to pull the slave and invert it to where the bleeder was more on top.

That sucks they put a tiny gasser radiator on there. I bet it looks tiny. The copper radiator that is supposed to be there is huge. The diesel core support is notched out wider for the radiator. I didn't know that till I started my cummins swap. Did they hack up your shroud also to fit the smaller radiator?
Click to expand...

All the core supports are the same, and have appropriate mounting provisions for any radiator, be it v6, v8 or diesel. Core support in my 88 is identical to the one in my 99, they just have different radiators and fan shrouds.
 
Aces,

I believe NAPA now carries a cast aluminum clutch master cylinder. I believe Advance also carries one. Apparently they got tired of replacing the plastic POSes. I'm going on my 3rd of 4th replacement and the next one will be one of the aluminum ones. I might just get it and carry it as a spare.
 
OK Got an aluminum one. Yes the clutch feels like something is binding about 3/4 way down. I pulled that little access cover on the side of the bellhousing where the rod for the external slave goes in. It's hitting the fork dead on but I see it ,move slightly upward about the same time that slight bind is felt so I guess that is the problem. I got a used tranny coming for it next week so I guess I will address it then. Is the ball still available from GM ? Seems they are discontinuing everything else. The new master is Aluminum. It bled much faster this time but still has a little bit of air. I hate this system for sure. Friggin starter is acting up now. I should have cut this POS up for parts. I wonder if I can get away with changing the solenoid on the starter. Every now and then you hit the key and hear it clicking but the motor does not engage. I'm wondering if that is a burned spot on the solenoid disc or s burned spot on the motor. I know on the old Cat 37MT's you could flip the disc in the solenoid. When it kicks in the truck cranks fine. What a douchebag this thing is. I fix one thing and 2 other things break.
It lost fuel pressure, the OPS took a crap. I wired it to a relay and ran it off B+ side of the inj pump. Stupid OPS. I took the snorkel out of the fender too. What a joke, My snowblower couldn't breathe through that thing let alone a V8 diesel.
 
the one in my 96 can't be flipped IDK about your year. selenoids not made in china can be got for about $60 if you shop around
 
Whats the p/n on that aluminum master cylinder? Gonna carry that plastic one back I got for the Cummins conversion and get me one of those.
 
Kenny check your battery connections for the random clicking.

My K-5 does it sometimes. It's the damn connections on the sidepost batteries. My custom built cables don't help as they are heavy. If i didn't have to replace the batteries in the pickup(can hear one start to boil when i try charging it) I'd put top post batteries in the K-5 and be done with side posts forever.
 
I got the starter I took out of my burb. The motor is weak, it cranks slow but the sol is good afaik.I can solendiods locally for about 60$ USA made from a rebuilder. So it probably is the sol ? I am broke. I don't have 300$ for a starter right now.
 
OK, How the frig does the turn signal/multifunction stalk come apart ? I hate these columns. The newer ones are so much better. Also the new column is not tilt will the stalk work with the new column ? I'd like to keep my cruise. Also the stalk on the new column is sloppy, as near as I can tell the wiper switch is broken where it pivots for the high beams. So how does the stalk come off the wiper switch ?
 

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