Jaryd
Extremely Deplorable
Good job. That's a serious engine man. What did you use to seal your head studs.
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Going mechanical with a Moose Omega Marine IP
- Thread starter n8in8or
- Start date
n8in8or
I never met a project I didn’t like
Thanks Jaryd! I used Loctite Blue to seal them. The first time I did the studs with the standard Permatex teflon goop....BAD IDEA!!! @WarWagon has used the Loctite multiple times and if it can survive him....it can survive anyone. He has also used Red Loctite, but I'm not sure you'd be able to get the studs back out if you used that. Others have used the GM Teflon Pipe Sealant with success. I haven't used it on studs, but I have used it on other threaded parts and it's a really strong sealant.
Genuine GM Fluid 12346004 Teflon Pipe Sealant - 50cc https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000QIXFEE/?tag=jhdiesel-20
As an Amazon Associate we earn from qualifying purchases.
Jaryd
Extremely Deplorable
Thanks man. That's the permatex that I used but I think 1 or 2 of mine is leaking by. I have a VERY slow leak somewhere. Your engineering is spot on on the bumper and everything else you've done to the Tahoe. You got some damn good numbers out of that beast of a engine.
n8in8or
I never met a project I didn’t like
Thanks Jaryd. Dude. Get those studs sealed A.S.A.P!! The leaking studs took out the original engine in my Tahoe. It was a 1997 block so it wasn't worth building anyway, but you have a 2000, that should definitely be a keeper! I know it's going to suck to get those studs back out and sealed, but if you don't do it soon you'll be looking for another engine.
There should be a landing page on all 6.5 diesel forums that has this warning on it:
DO NOT USE PERMATEX ON ARP HEAD STUDS
It would have saved me that engine. Unfortunately I didn't find the right information until too late. How long ago did you do your head studs? I think it took 4 months of daily driving for them to leak enough to ruin my engine. Hopefully you still have time. I'm sorry, I don't mean to rant at you, I just don't want anyone to make the same mistake I did and end up in a bind. Oh, and thanks for following along!
Jaryd
Extremely Deplorable
ive got probably 200 miles on the engine since I put the head gaskets and studs in. Im going to dig into it this weekend. Thanks
n8in8or
I never met a project I didn’t like
Whew! I think you've caught it soon enough. Have fun and good luck!
Man! What a read! I just finished reading this entire thread and just like all of the others here my hats off too you and your build and hard work. I'm curious to see what you have done in the past year. I am presently getting ready to remove my DB2835 pump to either get worked on for more fuel or replaced. I'm sure I can use some of your data in my build as well.
n8in8or
I never met a project I didn’t like
You read the whole thing? Man, that’s dedication!!
As far as what I’ve done in the past year, I’ve only done chassis work so not any more horsepower to report. My lift pump can’t keep up with the IP so I have some power left on the table there. I’ll be addressing that soon. I also have most of a WMI kit to install. I’ll be doing that when I get a little more brave, but first I want to beef up the transmission. I’m pretty sure this combo can put down 400hp to the wheels once those 2 things are done, but we’ll see what the dyno says. There will be even bigger things coming in the future.
Right now I’m staying super busy fixing rust on the truck which is MUCH worse than I thought. Amazing how much I found that was hiding once I started digging into it. I need to start a thread for that project, but it’s taking all my time working on the truck and there isn’t much time left over for posting. You guys out West are going to freak. Here are a couple teaser pics....
Will L.
Well-Known Member
YUP! That is crazy to me. Man that sux.
You might as well tub the wheel wells now 
Husker6.5
135' diagonal 16:9HD, 25KW sound!
That's why it's called the Rust Belt, Nate. We have it just as bad out here on the Plains.
FellowTraveler
Well-Known Member
Rust free bodies are becoming rare.
n8in8or
I never met a project I didn’t like
You might as well tub the wheel wells now
You see, this is why I shouldn’t post here....you guys are BAD influences!!
Oh I didn’t realize it was as bad in the plains. I thought it mainly rained.....oh wait, wrong country.
Yup, and they aren’t making any more of them, so in my mind it’s worth fixing what I have rather than letting it rot completely away and find something to replace it. At least I’ll know what I have.
Will L.
Well-Known Member
They get crushed here weekly. Many with no rust.
Nothing rusts here. Out in the middle of nowhere is a 1971 honda 2 door that got driven off a cliff and burned, my uncle was the original owner. It was stolen at 6 months old, and I found it hiking the hills in the 80’s as teenager. Called cops incase crime scene and led them to it. Traced vin and laughed when they said my uncles unique name. Called my uncle and showed him. He luckily found his vietnam dogs tags in glove box! Anyways- We go out there and target shoot in that area on occasion when I go to his part of the world. As of last year it was still there all smashed up and almost no rust. Certainly nothing that couldn’t be sanded out and repainted. So when I say Nothing rusts here- for real.
Nothing rusts here. Out in the middle of nowhere is a 1971 honda 2 door that got driven off a cliff and burned, my uncle was the original owner. It was stolen at 6 months old, and I found it hiking the hills in the 80’s as teenager. Called cops incase crime scene and led them to it. Traced vin and laughed when they said my uncles unique name. Called my uncle and showed him. He luckily found his vietnam dogs tags in glove box! Anyways- We go out there and target shoot in that area on occasion when I go to his part of the world. As of last year it was still there all smashed up and almost no rust. Certainly nothing that couldn’t be sanded out and repainted. So when I say Nothing rusts here- for real.
BIGR
Lucky To Be Here
Here where I live they use all kinds of chemicals along with the salt, that stuff eats up vehicles, I wished they would stop using the chemicals and stick to sand and regular salt.
Man, after reading this thread I wished I could have kept my 99 2 door Tahoe for just an all out hot rod, but not enough time or money. As you guys can tell I can't even get the one 6.5 P400 project I have going done. Hey Nate, can I ask you a couple of questions about your setup? Are you using a Hallman boost controller on both your turbo wastegate and the hypermax aneroid? If so did you just put a barbed T on the turbo compressor housing for reference? The other is your fuel pressure gauge electric and where is it plumbed into your fuel line? I take it by post #776 you are planning on upgrading your lift pump? Any suggestions? I'm thinking of getting the same IP you have from Conestoga and I'm trying to figure out how to configure my fuel supply system. Thanks, for any help, Dave
Husker6.5
135' diagonal 16:9HD, 25KW sound!
Things may not rust out there in the desert, but that same Sun bakes interiors and fries automatic transmissions.
n8in8or
I never met a project I didn’t like
Hi Dave. Sure:
I’m using a Hallman to control the wastegate and a Blitz Dual SBC electronic wastegate controller on the puff limiter. https://conceptzperformance.com/blitz-dual-sbc-spec-r-boost-controller-15101-universal_p_3189.php
I tapped my upper intake to use for the boost reference for the Blitz, but I suppose a T on the compressor housing would work fine.
My fuel pressure gauge is electric. It’s plumbed after the fine fuel filter in the engine compartment so I have a good reading of what the inlet of the IP is seeing and it helps me monitor the condition of the fuel filters. I couldn’t get good pics since my truck is torn apart and on a lift in a tent, but hopefully these pics help.
I would like to update at some point, but I’m not sure to what yet. Stand alone diesel lift pumps are super pricey. I’m hoping that adding the external return-style regulator to the Raptor 100 helps it to give me the additional fuel I’m looking for, for now. The Raptor pumps are actually priced pretty reasonably for a true diesel pump. The Raptor 150 may provide enough fuel pressure and flow, but since I already have the 100 I’m playing with that for now. There are other stand alone pumps that people say you can use with diesel, but it seems to be one of those “use at your own risk” situations. Even so, I’ve tossed around the idea of running 2 Walbro pumps in parallel so if one does fail I would have a backup already plumbed in. Sorry I don’t have any great answers for this for you. I wish I had a good answer myself that wasn’t super expensive.
Hink
Overkill Is Underrated
Heh, nice.
Will L.
Well-Known Member
On the fuel system, I don’t remember if it was here or the hummer forum as Greenmeanie aka @greenmeanh1 here did the write up on his electronic controlled lift pump hat he can adjust fuel pressure on the fly. He mentioned noticable improvements in playing with it at different loads.
I can’t remember details now, but I burned it in my brain that that is seriously a great idea. It makes sense that varied fuel pressure is going to cause better performance at different rpm. Being able to tune the fuel supply just seemed obvious once I read it.
For a dd vehicle I can’t see it helping a ton. But on performance- heck yeah. Theoretically even an algorithm that auto adjust through power band/rpm range.
Following close as I am really thinking about outing my set up for something better.
I can’t remember details now, but I burned it in my brain that that is seriously a great idea. It makes sense that varied fuel pressure is going to cause better performance at different rpm. Being able to tune the fuel supply just seemed obvious once I read it.
For a dd vehicle I can’t see it helping a ton. But on performance- heck yeah. Theoretically even an algorithm that auto adjust through power band/rpm range.
Following close as I am really thinking about outing my set up for something better.