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Going mechanical with a Moose Omega Marine IP

Yes- unless your pump builder says you need to open up the return, leave it small. So in that case good plan.
 
spdgofast said:
I don't mean to hijack this thread and Nate if you'd rather I can start a thread on the subject but I figured you've been giving this some thought. Has anyone tried to install something like this Fuel Lab pickup tube to the OEM sender assembly and using the old pickup for a return? BTW I ordered a FASS pressure regulator today, I guess I'll be the guinea pig. LOL

https://www.jegs.com/i/Fuelab/083/2...m_FLNVOufpFUWTiFxknUbXXYyxANvfJhoCteYQAvD_BwE
Click to expand...
Hey Dave, I'm not worried about a hijack, however I am thinking that if we have a dedicated thread for the topic we can keep the info more focused and flowing in the right direction. I have started a new thread for us to discuss fuel supply ideas and I am cross-linking it with this one. I look forward to the discussion and what everyone comes up with.

http://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/forums/6-5-performance.229/
 
spdgofast said:
I was thinking of just leaving the IP return alone and use the old 3/8 for the regulator return. Just brain stormin.
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Yes. It makes sense that the IP return stays isolated from the regulator return. If there was a lot of pressure in the return hose from the regulator, you don't want that applying back pressure to the return from the IP. One theory anyway.
 
spdgofast said:
I called Fass today about the FPR-1001 regulator but they said they couldn't give me specific flow pressures due to the fact that every setup varies which I understand. After looking at the housing I was thinking if the lower housing where all of the fittings go is one chamber it would take a pretty stout pump to hold 25-30 lbs with the return line relief don't you think?
Click to expand...

Hmmmm. I would sure hope that a well designed regulator could quickly respond to fuel demands and maintain a constant pressure, but I guess time will tell.
 
spdgofast said:
I don't mean to hijack this thread and Nate if you'd rather I can start a thread on the subject but I figured you've been giving this some thought. Has anyone tried to install something like this Fuel Lab pickup tube to the OEM sender assembly and using the old pickup for a return? BTW I ordered a FASS pressure regulator today, I guess I'll be the guinea pig. LOL

https://www.jegs.com/i/Fuelab/083/2...m_FLNVOufpFUWTiFxknUbXXYyxANvfJhoCteYQAvD_BwE
Click to expand...
Bingo. I've been looking at that tube as well as another one (can't remember by who at the moment) and use the stock 3/8" supply as the regulator return, too. FASS also makes a pickup tube that is both supply (5/8") and return (1/2") combined, but it's more pricey and probably overkill for this power level.
 
Will L. said:
I did once made a 1/2" pickup tube and used the 3/8" as the return. plugged the 5/16". If I had it to do again I would still cap the 5/16" and return in the 3/8". But instead of a pickup tube for the 1/2" I would just do a sump.
Click to expand...
I've been looking at making a 1/2" tube for the sending unit, but it's hard to come up with a good way to make a bend in 1/2" steel tubing. For my particular truck, I don't like the idea of a sump - my fuel tank is low enough as it is and I don't want to add something hanging out of the bottom of the tank that could get hit if something goes wrong. A sump would sure make things easier though.
 
While this following article is about the Bosch P7100 on a 5.9 Cummins its food for thought on 'proper fuel line sizes.'

"Don't dispel using a surge tank to meet your fueling goals being fed by your stock fuel system reality is if its DD your not into the throttle as much as you would be for racing so a surge tank makes sense." With a surge tank closer to the IP than your main tank tinkering with line sizes is far less costly.

http://www.torkteknology.com/technical-article-2-the-diesel-fuel-system-inlet-line/
 
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FellowTraveler said:
Bringing up an old post here, I was looking at this post again and wonder if you are still running the 3" downpipe? I ask because a single straight 3" diameter pipe can only flow around 742 +- cfm which equates to 339 +- hp which is very close to what you are putting down to the rollers.
Click to expand...
Is there room for a down pipe bigger than 3"?
 
jrsavoie said:
Is there room for a down pipe bigger than 3"?
Click to expand...
Yes, However custom! Using 4" round then transition to 4" or 5" oval transitioned back to round and being a cobrahead design too 'not a task for the meek and timid.' A Cummins 4" cobra head on an HX40 turbine will make the task much easier as the space is limited to the firewall.
 
A little update: last week I removed the engine from the Tahoe and tore it down to the short block.

The good news is there are no cracks in the mains after 24,000 miles - it has held up to that power level which I think is good news for all of us! I can't speak to what in particular helped it to survive without cracking, but the only things I know I did that should have helped is that ever since the rebuild it has had a Fluidampr harmonic balancer and a brand new crank pulley on it. Then after I tore it down to change the cam out (and replace the bad flexplate) I installed the DSG stud girdles. Again, I can't say what did make it survive, but those parts were on this and it survived. It's also a little surprising to not find any cracks because for the first few thousand miles I put on it there was a bad shake that was gone after I put a stock cam back in it and replaced the flexplate. I'm guessing it was the backwards installed flexplate causing the shake, but can't say for sure since I changed 2 things at the same time - regardless, even with that bad shake it survived while making 350/600 at the wheels. The other good news is I have a good short block to build from for my current project,

The bad news is that there are cracks between most of the valves in both heads. At some point I will disassemble the heads and clean them up really well so the cracks can be inspected better and I will share pictures at that time. These were Optimizer heads, so that was disappointing to see. Lock n Stitch makes some products to not only seal that coolant passage between the valves, but also to fix the cracks and keep them from spreading - I may go that route in the future to try to save some heads, but I'd really rather try to prevent the cracks in the first place. My first thought is to coat the combustion chambers with a heat insulating product like what @Twisted Steel Performance offers. I'm wondering if it's the high heat in that thinner section of the head that causes the cracking.....
 
n8in8or said:
A little update: last week I removed the engine from the Tahoe and tore it down to the short block.

The good news is there are no cracks in the mains after 24,000 miles - it has held up to that power level which I think is good news for all of us! I can't speak to what in particular helped it to survive without cracking, but the only things I know I did that should have helped is that ever since the rebuild it has had a Fluidampr harmonic balancer and a brand new crank pulley on it. Then after I tore it down to change the cam out (and replace the bad flexplate) I installed the DSG stud girdles. Again, I can't say what did make it survive, but those parts were on this and it survived. It's also a little surprising to not find any cracks because for the first few thousand miles I put on it there was a bad shake that was gone after I put a stock cam back in it and replaced the flexplate. I'm guessing it was the backwards installed flexplate causing the shake, but can't say for sure since I changed 2 things at the same time - regardless, even with that bad shake it survived while making 350/600 at the wheels. The other good news is I have a good short block to build from for my current project,

The bad news is that there are cracks between most of the valves in both heads. At some point I will disassemble the heads and clean them up really well so the cracks can be inspected better and I will share pictures at that time. These were Optimizer heads, so that was disappointing to see. Lock n Stitch makes some products to not only seal that coolant passage between the valves, but also to fix the cracks and keep them from spreading - I may go that route in the future to try to save some heads, but I'd really rather try to prevent the cracks in the first place. My first thought is to coat the combustion chambers with a heat insulating product like what @Twisted Steel Performance offers. I'm wondering if it's the high heat in that thinner section of the head that causes the cracking.....
Click to expand...


Yup, the Optimizer name on a motor has not shown itself to be as durable as I had hoped either. Both heads had cracks at the valves on all cylinders in addition to the massive main web cracks. I would think the coatings would be a great idea but I just had mine sleeved by a very good machine shop in Portland and called it good. They have had a lot of experience over the years with 6.5s and have seen good long term success with the repair. They also do it on new heads knowing they will need it eventually anyway.

Next time, definitely Chris' coatings!
 
Metal Locking Services in Buffalo does the same type of work. They don't have any DIY stuff that I'm aware of. I had them fix a Massey Harris engine block about 10 years ago. Great work- definitely not cheap!
 
93detroit said:
Metal Locking Services in Buffalo does the same type of work. They don't have any DIY stuff that I'm aware of. I had them fix a Massey Harris engine block about 10 years ago. Great work- definitely not cheap!
Click to expand...
What Massey Harris was it? I have a 101 Senior with a Continental 226 flat head straight six in it (no cracks in that one). I used to have a 44 that I bought with a crack parallel to the deck surface. I never did anything with that one and eventually sold it to my dad (he also hasn't done anything with it).
 
It was a 55 of a customer from MD. They only made about 10k of the J382 engines and just about all of them cracked between the cylinders. I have a 44 that I play with sometimes. This is a video of me at the Farm Show complex last March. Good for 2nd place.
 
That’s a good looking 44. I always wanted a 55, I didn’t know they had block cracking issues.

Here’s the only vid I have of me pulling with my 101. It’s not nearly as purty as your 44 and the operation I was pulling with was not as sophisticated, but it was still a lot of fun.

 
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