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GM 6.5 TD engine poof problelm

Once you get to the injection pump, the metal lines after it- if there is a leak you will have diesel fuel making a mess and be able to see it.
Unless there is a noticeable misfire where power loss is occurring, you don’t need to bleed the injectors. If there is no air coming into the injection pump, these injectors will self bleed.
When installing a new ip, or complete engine rebuild/replace I don’t bleed them. I simply don’t install the glow plugs which lets engine crank really fast and when the fuel starts misting out the glow holes- stop cranking and install plugs. Engine always starts immediately.

That exhaust pop on tailpipe side- gotta try finding someone with a smart phone that would make a video for ya. They could make it then email to you, then you upload it. Or they could upload it, or they could text it to one of the he guys here that uploads (I ask my kids for help on that.)

To have the popping on one side, all I can think of is an exhaust leak maybe but doubt it. Gotta hear it somehow.
 
Thanks Will L.!
When I remove the old hose how much pressure is involved.
When I install a new hose- wouldn't that add air in the system?
 
if not, it's really simple to sign up for one and it's free. use the app on your phone. all you have to do is use your camera app on your phone to record a video. then open the youtube app and upload it. in the process of the app asking you questions about the upload. it should have the option to share. get the link and copy it, then paste the link here in the forum.

you might have someone do the video for you so there at or near the tail pipe when it does the pop sound. if you have kids or grand kids who can help that is always a plus.
 
Ok folks, he texted me a couple short videos. I’ll try getting my son to upload them to YouTube later and post link so others can see/learn.

Only when on cold start up- after starting with white smoke and idle for about 11 seconds it did the soft pop one time as it clears away the smoke. So it is just a little Unburned fuel getting squished through the turbo and maybe an egr trying to clean the planet.

Any of you folks in colder country that can do a cold start video showing the little popping… and anyone that can show pre and post egr delete, that might help educate people too.
 
Thanks for your help today...glad you could see and hear the two videos and explained what you thought it might be.....maybe I'll be able to put this project to rest?! Going to take a longer ride in the morning and let you know how it goes! Appreciate all the help I've been getting from everyone.
 
Maybe we can possibly get some of the admins to make some changes to the forum to allow uploading mp4 videos from our phones. I know there is a file size limit but for short clips is should be within the limits.

I know others have posted links from facebook and they worked, just won't auto play here, you have to click on the link.
 
Hi Fellows ! Started up (cold) this morning.... got an exhaust spray on the floor. Went 4 miles into town...put some fresh diesel in ... started up great and went on a longer run. Went 86 miles total and it's back in the garage. Ran great as it's always done!

I bought the motorhome brand new at the dealer who got it direct from the factory .... we're the only users and have " Never Towed" anything.

Have to add a bit of information I think I posted ages ago..... my GM 6.5TD engine is a "F" model and "doesn't have a "EGR Valve".... as per my engine specs and the many other owners who have the same make and model year.

I'm glad this project might be coming to a good conclusion and appreciate all the technical help and ideas I've recieved!
 
Awesome, glad to hear it's doing well. curious what kind of fuel mileage you get with your RV.

some things to take note of. inspect your harmonic balancer and front crank pulley. if you have the factory style, look for any cracking in the rubber or oil making the rubber soft. if using GM genuine parts, the HB is usually only good up to about 100k and any aftermarket ones only good for about 30k miles. they do make what's called a fluidamper which is a solid harmonic balancer that is fluid filled and never goes bad. also a billet solid front pulley too that will last for ever. they are pricey so there it is again... buy once and cry once!

if the HB or front pulley goes bad, it can snap a crankshaft and make for a very sad day!
 
A few of you guys wanted to know what kind of mileage I get on our motorhome.... we average 10 mpg.

Great Thanks to Will L helping me with those videos that he's going to try and get the type of file changed so you others can get a listen.
He posted a quick thought above what it could be.

Now a few days later I have a few questions.
After the R&R repairs I have made to this engine tested the motorhome several times.... I believe the problem is 2-leaking injectors after the engine is turned off.

After the engine is turned off and the fuel pump stops running....How long does the engine hold fuel pressure? When the pressure is gone - it shouldn't leak any more?

When I restart the engine the next morning it spits out a spotted area of moisture along with a puff of white smoke. See attached plain picture I took of the floor moisture- I haven't touched it to smell if it's diesel fuel.)

Is there any way I can test these injectors without removing them?

After the original first start the motorhome always runs perfect as it always has - even after we stop some where and then restart there's no smoke or noise or moisture on the road.

I did take a plain picture of the exhaust mark when it started.
 

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Injectors are always a possibility. how many miles are on the current set of injectors? Will and others will tell you they need to be replaced at 100k mile intervals. there is no way to test them in the engine. the only way to test that I am aware of is to remove and send to good diesel shop to have tested. @Rockabillyrat is the guy when it comes to injectors!
 
Heated exhaust cools and any moisture condenses and blows out at the cold start.
This happens to most vehicles.
I bought an inexpensive diesel injector tester. Made in India.
It works and gets the job done.
You might want to check into investing into one of those.
Made in India. Workmanship leaves some to be desired but they do work.
This was from testing a new set of injectors.
I sent them to a shop next town over. He charged $10.00 an injector and when he returned them every injector was popping at exactly 1950 PSI.
Just a warning, have any set of new injectors tested.
Two injectors out of the box tested good, out of 8 injectors.
 
Injectors are always a possibility. how many miles are on the current set of injectors? Will and others will tell you they need to be replaced at 100k mile intervals. there is no way to test them in the engine. the only way to test that I am aware of is to remove and send to good diesel shop to have tested. @Rockabillyrat is the guy when it comes to injectors!
80K to 100K miles, lower because his have worked harder pushing a bread box and then consider the impact of just age. He said his injectors have 79K miles. I said early on he had leaking injectors, but he never provided video for a thorough diagnosis.
 
He texted me a video- I couldn’t upload it to YouTube, My son that did it for me before is tied up and can’t help currently. i can text it to someone if they can.

Its a cold start with moderate white smoke coming out, from start up. Within 10 seconds of idling, there’s one moment the sound occurs where the white smoke clears up, and then runs great.
 
He texted me a video- I couldn’t upload it to YouTube, My son that did it for me before is tied up and can’t help currently. i can text it to someone if they can.

Its a cold start with moderate white smoke coming out, from start up. Within 10 seconds of idling, there’s one moment the sound occurs where the white smoke clears up, and then runs great.
I can tell you from days with bad injectors on cold mornings in Montana, he’s got worn injectors. If he does not replace, he’s at risk of burning pistons.
 
I can tell you from days with bad injectors on cold mornings in Montana, he’s got worn injectors. If he does not replace, he’s at risk of burning pistons.
Oh, 100% agree if worn. Search back on this forum and you’ll see I brought the recommendation here of 100,000 miles intervals on injectors. Because thats what I recommended in the fleets I ran.
But from what I saw- I don’t suspect a problem with his injectors.
By his mileage- I don’t suspect a problem with his injectors.

Is it a horrible idea to buy another set of injectors, or rebuild these and have them tested and balanced? No, but not really prudent economically considering the amount of miles put on the rig since new and he is the original owner.

Imo there are other things to do before that for the age and condition of the rig.
Start with a decarbon. Inspection and replacement of certain components that will go with age regardless of miles like oil cooler hoses, harmonic balancer, coolant hoses, fuel hoses.
then things like clear return on ip, fuel pressure gauge tapped at ip inlet, consideration which type lift pump is in use, etc.

Then if the rig is going to start getting a bigger increase in its use- a larger turbo to help with fuel consumption and egt drop while getting a few ponies for free out of the deal. At that point I would say having new & balanced injectors would come into play.
Gotta remember, low mileage and his factory injectors were built in the old location when they were still being built well. Just a random swap, especially if some sub par parts are used, it will do more harm than good.
 
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