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GM 6.5 TD engine poof problelm

Depending on how much you had to cut out, maybe use a rubber mud flap from a big rig with some self tappers and fender washers to make up a inner fender that you can re-cover that area which can later be removed for future work. That will also help protect the engine bay from road and mud debris from the tire.
Maybe at a tractor supply store or something similar.
Over here a farm/ranch store used to have bulk belt for hay swather/combine cross feed.
That stuff is lighter than mud flap and has like ridges to keep the clippings moving to the center.
That stuff might make a good alternative for a hole covering.
 
Bezzer: this is not about my problem....I keep getting logged out when I already are checked in. Both ways to get on and get off the sight and when I want to Log Out....it won't come up to Log Out...it asks to log in to do that job.
It's very annoying but I can't find the Help sight to notify the web person who would take care of this? Thanks!
 
For the override AKdieseldriver mentioned this makes that much easier:
He is a trusted vendor here.

On the testing, I was saying don’t bother testing the glow plugs with a meter. Test glow plugs only by removing and supplying power & ground to see it glow.

Testing the wires that feed the glow plugs can be done but understand that isn’t standard electrical wire so comparing the eight to each other is fine for ohm testing. As to testing for voltage you should read full battery voltage at the connector of the wire when NOT connected to the glowplug.
The load of the glowplug will dramatically alter the voltage at different levels. Eliminating the plugs to test the rest of the system is prudent and always predictable unlike the plugs.

Please take a minute and fill out your signature with rv details including mileage. It helps with diagnosis as the threads continue.

The 11G plugs have been out of production so long they quit using the part number long enough to start using it again for a different engine. Throw them away regardless if they work. Only use the 60G because the 60G are self limiting which can be the difference of saving or loosing the engine later.
 
See attached picture of the old 11G glow pics. (3a)
After taking out the 4 glow plugs on driver's side.....I checked out the old 11G glow plugs and the new 60G glow plugs with a 12 volt battery. Both look to glow the same (see 4a + 4b).

When plugging the new female wires onto the new glow plugs...they were very loose. Checked tightness with old glow plug and it snapped right in. Needed to bend corner back a little to keep the new glow plugs tight when pushing them in place.
Engine started right up as it always has. Engine cover is off- too much noise to hear any change.

Will continue changing glow plugs on the passenger side. Will let you know the outcome soon as I finish.
 

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dbrannon79 + Will L.: Okay Guys! I'm at the passenger side now.
Decided to do another test. Began with 12volt battery registering 12.49 volts. Went to glow plug controller- positive terminal : then negative terminal to ground (key off)...12.49 volts.
Then went to the negative terminal on the glow plug controller. Negative terminal to ground (key on).....10.78 volts.

With the wires NOT connected to the glow plugs the readings are: 10.72 volts, 10.78 volts, 10.77 volts and 10.89 volts.
I remember as I've stated before I had 12 volts in and 12 volts out - what happened that changed these voltages?

I think I might have a bad controller?
What do you guys think?

I've included a picture of the motorhome that Will L wanted to show....79,000 miles on it.
 

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Are your other 4 glow plugs on the drivers side connected?

the way this is setup is on the two large terminals on the controller, one is hot from the battery and the other side just splits out to 8 wires, one to each glow plug. if the 4 on the drivers side is connected, then that's where the voltage drop will be.

do this same test but disconnect the 4 connectors on the drivers side temporarily and see if your voltage reading go back up to the same in and out. I doubt you have any issues with your wiring, it's most likely just the glow plugs needing some maintenance.
 
Think of the the electrical system like water plumbing.
Instead of water inside the pipes, electricity travels on the surface of the outside of the wires. The voltage is a reading of the pressure. With the full pressure of 12volts coming in, 4 valves are open where connected to the glow plugs on the first side. So pressure is going to fall off some.
The more things that are on, the lower the pressure (voltage) gets.
 
Think of the the electrical system like water plumbing.
Instead of water inside the pipes, electricity travels on the surface of the outside of the wires. The voltage is a reading of the pressure. With the full pressure of 12volts coming in, 4 valves are open where connected to the glow plugs on the first side. So pressure is going to fall off some.
The more things that are on, the lower the pressure (voltage) gets.
And if one valve is turned to the off position, electricity no linger flows that course. Which will increase pressure (flow) to the other spigots.
Also, people are sold on this idea that electricity will take the path of least resistance, that is fake or false thinking (teaching), electricity will take every available source to get it to the ground. Not just one path.
If a GP has no resistance within, straight to ground, then how come flow is still shown to all of the other GPs ?
 
How many paths does a lightening bolt take to get to the ground ? and, the ground to the lightening bolt ?
Now that is has been photographed and videod of a lightening surge streaking from the ground skywards.
Not just one path but several.
 
dbrannon79= I wrote this on Feb. 5 to answer your question yesterday on Feb. 12th. You asked if the other 4 glow plugs are connected and I responded below:
"Today on the driver's side I checked the 4 connectors (unplugged): one read 10.70 volts....another read 10.68....another read 10.60....and the 4th read 10.64.
Started checking the batterys at 12.50 volts. After finishing .....the battery voltage was at 12.42 volts. After 1 1/2 hrs. the batterys are back up to 12.50."

I had no problem removing the glow plugs on the driver's using a 1/4" ratchet with a 1/4" extension. On the passenger side they were a lot tighter after using Blaster 6 times during the day. I got two out with a lot of pressure.

Then I broke the 1/4" extension. Is it safe to use a 3/8" ratchet without breaking the glow plug inside the head?
So far they are all coming out straight without any problems except the last two glow plugs.

Someone wrote about the size of glow plug wires...it might have been Will L.. The glow plug wires are original gray wires....maybe about 1/8 " round. And the glow plug wires on the passenger side are original orange wires and about 1/16" give or take.
What is the difference?
 
dbrannon79= I wrote this on Feb. 5 to answer your question yesterday on Feb. 12th. You asked if the other 4 glow plugs are connected and I responded below:
"Today on the driver's side I checked the 4 connectors (unplugged): one read 10.70 volts....another read 10.68....another read 10.60....and the 4th read 10.64.
Started checking the batterys at 12.50 volts. After finishing .....the battery voltage was at 12.42 volts. After 1 1/2 hrs. the batterys are back up to 12.50."

I had no problem removing the glow plugs on the driver's using a 1/4" ratchet with a 1/4" extension. On the passenger side they were a lot tighter after using Blaster 6 times during the day. I got two out with a lot of pressure.

Then I broke the 1/4" extension. Is it safe to use a 3/8" ratchet without breaking the glow plug inside the head?
So far they are all coming out straight without any problems except the last two glow plugs.

Someone wrote about the size of glow plug wires...it might have been Will L.. The glow plug wires are original gray wires....maybe about 1/8 " round. And the glow plug wires on the passenger side are original orange wires and about 1/16" give or take.
What is the difference?
It is okay to use a 3/8ths drive to unscrew the glow plugs, as far as I know. Thats all I use on My 2000 K3500.

IDK if this harness would work on Your motorhome.
You can send the team a message and find out.

This site has a harness listed specifically for the van/savannah. I guess it would be determined if Your turbo is a rear center mount or if it is a RH exhaust manifold mount.


Please dont ban me for showing that site. I did it for informational purposes only.
 
On the two your having issues getting loose. you can use a propane or mapp gas torch heating the area where the glow plugs are threaded into the block some. get it hot enough (not the glow plug but the area around it) so that when you spray some PB Blaster on it, it sizzles and what not. the heating and cooling as you spray the lube on to it will allow the lube to get sucked into the threads which helps break them loose at you wrench on them. go easy trying to work the threads back n fourth. but like I say, don't get the glow plug too hot that is breaks off with the socket twisting on them, glowing red on the area is way too hot!! you don't want to heat the area up to the point where the head gasket gets damaged.
 
MrMarty51: Thanks! I don't need a wiring harness but I will bookmark those sites if the need comes up.

Will L.: I must have written about the wires the wrong way. I don't need new wires. Let's try again about the wires.These are the original wires that were put on at the factory in 1996 and are in good shape. I have owned the motorhome from day one and done any work I needed myself...no one has changed any wires.
I'm asking about the colors and why they are a different color and size?

4 wires (about 1/8" round) on the driver's side are gray they come from the controller to the 4 glow plugs.
Also in the same bundle ...One gray wire (about 1/8th" round) that goes from the driver side harness around the front of the engine to the first glow plug on the passenger side.

The last three other glow plug wires (about 1/16th " round) are orange and in a separate bundle and go come directly from the controller to the glow plugs.

Why did the one (1/8") gray wire go around the front of the engine to the first glow plug on the passenger side??
Does your trucks have that same set up?

Help Please! I've asked this before and need an answer from someone who manages this web page about why I have to log in and log in and log in all the time....Is there a time limit to be on? I have looked for directions and you guys must have had this problem. I need to know what or who I can contact. I have written an e-mail about problem too! Hope you can help with this separate and annoying problem with logging in and out?
 
MrMarty51: Thanks! I don't need a wiring harness but I will bookmark those sites if the need comes up.

Will L.: I must have written about the wires the wrong way. I don't need new wires. Let's try again about the wires.These are the original wires that were put on at the factory in 1996 and are in good shape. I have owned the motorhome from day one and done any work I needed myself...no one has changed any wires.
I'm asking about the colors and why they are a different color and size?

4 wires (about 1/8" round) on the driver's side are gray they come from the controller to the 4 glow plugs.
Also in the same bundle ...One gray wire (about 1/8th" round) that goes from the driver side harness around the front of the engine to the first glow plug on the passenger side.

The last three other glow plug wires (about 1/16th " round) are orange and in a separate bundle and go come directly from the controller to the glow plugs.

Why did the one (1/8") gray wire go around the front of the engine to the first glow plug on the passenger side??
Does your trucks have that same set up?

Help Please! I've asked this before and need an answer from someone who manages this web page about why I have to log in and log in and log in all the time....Is there a time limit to be on? I have looked for directions and you guys must have had this problem. I need to know what or who I can contact. I have written an e-mail about problem too! Hope you can help with this separate and annoying problem with logging in and out?
I wonder what's going on with the constant logging in. I've never had that here.
 
On the harness with the different wires-
I have worked on 6.5 in pickups, generators, hummer /hmmwv, vans, buses, rv, you name it. I have never seen that done before. Possible the rv manufacturer made that alteration after having ran into a problem or if they just accidentally damaged wires during the build and that was how the dude fixed it.
I see no reason that should ever be done.

Are you logging out? I always just close the page and when I click the hot link it opens up without logging in. Occasionally i will have to sign it, but very rarely.
I’m no help as to why.
 
Will L. and jrsovie: Thanks for the come back! I'll have to look into more about the wiring . Maybe GM will know but they might not have info for a 1996 engine wiring?!

Nobody seems to have my log in /out problem. Do you know if you have a set time to be on? I don't want to stay on...don't keep computer on all the time. Another thing to keep looking at the solution!
 
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