Husker6.5
135' diagonal 16:9HD, 25KW sound!
You just might have a promising career writing for Diesel Power, or perhaps Car and Driver!:rolleyes5::rofl::lol::rof::lmao:
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I am sure people on this site will come up with a better idea about the head work with of their expert knowledge of intake and exhaust flow capabilities because the wrong valves were used! Probably say the pistons are not the right ones to use, the coating is all wrong either too much or too little, wrong engine block because it just isn't strong enough, precups aren't going to work well because of the bowl flow isn't enough, or why aren't the skirts coated, or the wrong turbo is being used, the camshaft won't work, the wrist pins are not going to work, cross hatching isn't enough or it is too much, wrong bearing used, wrong rings used, the extrude-hone work wasn't done right on the intake and exhaust manifolds.
Come on all you expert engine builders let the rest of know what should off been done to your specs and with your money!
Flew in to Seattle and boy are my arms tired (cymbols please).
1. You need to use the intake valves off a 79 Datsun B210 for the exhaust valves, they allow "extra clearance" to allow the valve to wiggle closed for an optimum seal.
2. The pistons were incorrect for this application because they are not the ones supplied be the "experts" at Damaged Diesel.
3. The best piston coating to use is Rhino Liner because the liner seals against the cylinder walls better when warm.
4. You have the wrong block as well, everybody knows that the best blocks were from the 350 olds engines circa 1983.
5. Your precups would have better flow if you welded a stainless sink strainer to them, the strainers align the fuel molecules to double their effective flow.
6. The best flowing bowls are made by Corelle.
7. Coated skirts are the best. Have you ever seen a chick in a skirt straight from a mud pit?
8. Your turbo blows. A better combination can be had with a proper mating for Kerby, Rainbow and Hoover vacuum cleaner parts. Everybody knows that a turbos that sucks is perfect for your application.
9. Your camshaft won't work because of it's egg shaped lobes. Round lobes have less friction.
10. Wrist pins? Really your using those? If you install a rubber shaft through the rod to retain the piston it allows for high RPM displacement increase. It uses the fuel of a 4 cylinder until you mash the throttle, then the pistons help the valves close faster.
11. Nobody crosshatches anymore. You need compression relief grooves in the cylinder walls with the high compression ratios of these engines.
12. Your bearings are correct! Congratulations, you have done something right.
13 Multi gap rings are the best, they expand in the heat, usually right into the cylinder walls.
14. Extrude honing is old tech, you need to create pressure ridges with hard rolls and a dremel. You also need pressure relief holes so that won't need a wastegate.
As you can see, I'm an expert in bull crap.
So I have a base line and I'll set another one using the Palmer Dyno tool the software provides to see what the delta is between the machine and do-it youself program. I'll compare with the same tune and the new motor and then again with a new tune. At least I'll have a comparison.
GW
In the write up, in MaxxTorque, the engine builder posted pictures of the upper and lower intake manifold, the exhaust manifold, and the turbo charger. All these items had been extruded-honed. The cost of those items, along with the Peninsular upper intake, getting the extrude-hone process done was just a little over $3,000!
Housing wasn't enlarged, just smoothed a little!
At the time of the build I had been talking to a friend of mine, Dan Ferraro, of Clear Image Automotive, in Auburn, Washington about making headers for the 6.5l turbo. Something he still wants to do!
Paul showed a picture of the GM8 with the still smooth housing.
Paul showed a couple of the guys the manifolds, yesterday. The exhaust manifolds had, of course, a lot of soot but they don't have and ridges in them. That part I do know. The lower intake needs a little internal polishing refinement to get the mirror finish back. But who gets to see that part when the engine is assembled.
Was the entire compressor housing extrude honed?
Compressor housings are pretty precise pieces, even a few thou can change it.
You like that huh? Check out these Jugs.:thumbsup:
...dress off the roughness that is parallel the blade face...
Not sure why the pictures are so small, but the site does tend to compress a 1MB picture to about 80KB and I appreciate the advice on touching up the blades. I'll look closer one of these days to see if I can spot any cracking. I sent the 4MB pictures to Dennis and haven't heard back yet but, with two friends battling the big "C", he's got other higher priorities. Besides, I'm not in a hurry and my impatience meter is pegged at zero these days. One day you'll get PCS orders to Vancouver and you can swing in to Heath's and eat great food in Ellensburg. I liked the Red Horse Diner for lunch and the Palace is fine for Breakfast and "Supper."