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Fuel Pressure Gauge

Plumbing the braided stainless line AutoMeter supplies that goes from the isolator into the cab can be more work to run. The Isolater is basically a separation diaphragm. Fuel line from where you tap into the fuel system to the Isolator. Braided stainless hose filled with some type of liquid/antifreeze from the other side of the Isolator to the gauge.

Depends a lot on where you're mounting the gauge & where you run the line thru the firewall.

Running a sending wire from the electric gauge sender into the cab would be easier/quicker.
 
Plumbing the braided stainless line AutoMeter supplies that goes from the isolator into the cab can be more work to run. The Isolater is basically a separation diaphragm. Fuel line from where you tap into the fuel system to the Isolator. Braided stainless hose filled with some type of liquid/antifreeze from the other side of the Isolator to the gauge.

Depends a lot on where you're mounting the gauge & where you run the line thru the firewall.

Running a sending wire from the electric gauge sender into the cab would be easier/quicker.

Thats what i thought. I think I have an empty grommet through the firewall right by the steering column. Underneath teh one thats stock full, I mean FULL. I'll have to look closer. I'm mounting it down low, so not a problem there either.

BTW thanks for that E-Bay tip, now i'm addicted and bidding on all sorts of cheap crap since I set up my paypal/e-bay acct finally.
 
I get all kinds of little parts from ebay, the latest a propane solenoid to complete my propane fumigation setup. Hopefully get that in July 4th weekend.

Smithville warned in the past of a potential ticking from the isolated gauge.

I think that original electric aircraft gauge was great and cheap enough, just not the nice normal 2-1/16" gauge pod size. I want this gauge in the pillar, so I dont want to plumb a copper line for fuel up there, but maybe I'd just use a mechanical one if I put this gauge in a pod under the dash.
 
Further troubleshooting the inj pulse ticking that's getting into my cab is riding the copper tube from the mechanical coolant temp gauge sender - so no implication of the fuel pressure gauge/line. A mechanic's stethscope shows the highest level ticking noise when touched to the coolant temp gauge copper capillary tube.

Can't find anywhere that line is touching an inj line? Could the sensor port location (in the passenger side head, low in the back) simply be physically close enough to the rearmost injector, that the noise's origin is that last injector?

I get all kinds of little parts from ebay, the latest a propane solenoid to complete my propane fumigation setup. Hopefully get that in July 4th weekend.

Smithville warned in the past of a potential ticking from the isolated gauge.
I think that original electric aircraft gauge was great and cheap enough, just not the nice normal 2-1/16" gauge pod size. I want this gauge in the pillar, so I dont want to plumb a copper line for fuel up there, but maybe I'd just use a mechanical one if I put this gauge in a pod under the dash.
 
Got a nice Racor R445r30 Off Ebay for 45bux, 45gallon / hour flow with extra replacement 30micron jobby. Its a re-furb.


Working with Leroy now (pmdcable.com) for the walbro and his LP Fittings and some other misc things...

This is gonna shape up my entier fuel system. Good clean base for a set of new injectors.

Still havn't decided on fuel gauge yet... leaning towards that airplane one again. Its not a gauge you look at all the time, only occasionally, or most importantly in times of troubleshoot.

It's defanately getting mounted down and to the right under dash around 4x4 shifter area, perhaps next to my brake buddy....

Of course I have to get this damn exhaust purchase out of the way....
 
Fuel Gauge Option

You could consider SPA Design dual digital gauges, if you can spend the $$$. I did not want six separate gauges. I tested locating two dual digital gauges here.
DSC02028-100kb.jpg
Running at night.
DSC02030-100kb.jpg
They have red or green (selectable) or blue illumination and you can adjust the brightness. The Boost warning setpoint was 11 lbs so it is lit. I ended up buying a three gauge pod from Summit that mounts on top of the dash and mounting the gauges there. I will take a pic and post later. I bought my gauges from Kennedy and there are other vendors that sell SPA.
 
You could consider SPA Design dual digital gauges, if you can spend the $$$. I did not want six separate gauges. I tested locating two dual digital gauges here.
View attachment 7208
Running at night.
View attachment 7209
They have red or green (selectable) or blue illumination and you can adjust the brightness. The Boost warning setpoint was 11 lbs so it is lit. I ended up buying a three gauge pod from Summit that mounts on top of the dash and mounting the gauges there. I will take a pic and post later. I bought my gauges from Kennedy and there are other vendors that sell SPA.

You are right they are expensive!
 
Stewart Warner 114214

I think I'm going to go with this gauge. Judging how my operating pressure seems to be 4, and the 2 is so clearly a landmark. I should know I need filter service if I see it coming close to or hitting the 2.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/S...part=SWW-114214&N=700+400827+115&autoview=sku

LOL, a few months ago when I started this thread I was looking at the high end of the 15psi gauges instead of the bottom end :)
 
Further troubleshooting the inj pulse ticking that's getting into my cab is riding the copper tube from the mechanical coolant temp gauge sender - so no implication of the fuel pressure gauge/line. A mechanic's stethscope shows the highest level ticking noise when touched to the coolant temp gauge copper capillary tube.

Can't find anywhere that line is touching an inj line? Could the sensor port location (in the passenger side head, low in the back) simply be physically close enough to the rearmost injector, that the noise's origin is that last injector?
Why not use a fuel hose,that'll stop any noise + it's way easyer to install.
IMO a copper line is far more prone to failure than a hose.
 
Stewart Warner 114214

I think I'm going to go with this gauge. Judging how my operating pressure seems to be 4, and the 2 is so clearly a landmark. I should know I need filter service if I see it coming close to or hitting the 2.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/S...part=SWW-114214&N=700+400827+115&autoview=sku

LOL, a few months ago when I started this thread I was looking at the high end of the 15psi gauges instead of the bottom end :)

This is exactally what Ive been looking for. Ive been holding off buying one because I couldnt seem to find one I liked for the right price. The only thing I dont see is if it is illuminated or not. I would like to purchase a lighted guage, but I dont see it anywhere that it is...or even a kit to illuminate it. Am I missing something?
 
This is exactally what Ive been looking for. Ive been holding off buying one because I couldnt seem to find one I liked for the right price. The only thing I dont see is if it is illuminated or not. I would like to purchase a lighted guage, but I dont see it anywhere that it is...or even a kit to illuminate it. Am I missing something?

I assumed it was? Aren't they all? This one is obviously to be made for in cab. Can't have a non-illuminated in cab gauge.
 
Some people live by a nuke plant,now THAT i call brave:smile5:

That would be me, 15 miles due south of me is Comanche Peak Steam Electric Station and the wind blows from the south 75% of the time. To make it worse, I used to work there too! Now I don't need headlights to drive at night, I just have that healthy Herman Munster green glow! Mike
 
This is exactally what Ive been looking for. Ive been holding off buying one because I couldnt seem to find one I liked for the right price. The only thing I dont see is if it is illuminated or not. I would like to purchase a lighted guage, but I dont see it anywhere that it is...or even a kit to illuminate it. Am I missing something?

In the description below it mentions "advanced lighting technique" I would assume it's lighted.

Leo
 
That would be me, 15 miles due south of me is Comanche Peak Steam Electric Station and the wind blows from the south 75% of the time. To make it worse, I used to work there too! Now I don't need headlights to drive at night, I just have that healthy Herman Munster green glow! Mike
Your real name aint HOMER SIMPSON perhaps is it?:eek::D
 
Why not use a fuel hose,that'll stop any noise + it's way easyer to install.
IMO a copper line is far more prone to failure than a hose.

The copper line involved is the capillary tube on the mechanical coolant temp gauge. So it's necessary as part of the water temp gauge assembly.

The fuel pressure gauge fuel line branch is socketless hose from after OEM filter mgr, to an isolator diaphragm under the hood. Then it's braided stainless hose (filled w/ glycol) that passes the pressure signal from the isolator diaphragm to the gauge. The braided stainless hose came with either the gauge or isolator - can't recall which.

Did all the installation when the engine was out, when running this plumbing was easiest. Used those bolt/pull together sheet metal punches to make neat hoses thru the firewall where I needed. Then grommeted & WindoWeld sealed. So the plumbing/pass thru's are actually sealed in pretty well.
 
Stewart Warner 114214

I think I'm going to go with this gauge. Judging how my operating pressure seems to be 4, and the 2 is so clearly a landmark. I should know I need filter service if I see it coming close to or hitting the 2.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/S...part=SWW-114214&N=700+400827+115&autoview=sku

LOL, a few months ago when I started this thread I was looking at the high end of the 15psi gauges instead of the bottom end :)

Thats the gauge I run in mine. It is illuminated.
 
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