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Fuel Pressure Gauge

Reading it again it says Sending unit elecrical, but most others show pictures and say including. I assume it is included?

That one might be a winner. IF the walbro shows it up past 10, no worries. When filter's clog up, or problems happen, the detail is there to fine tune the readings. I might go for it. Standard size makes it much more convienient, and the price is right.
 
That holley has more detail from 0 - 10 than to 15, intersting idea. not bad at all for the 6.5.

It does't mention anything about a the sender and harness's and stuff though, anyone know if it comes with?

Matt, in the list below the gauge it says sender incl-yes.

Leo
 
This is what I plan on using on my truck unless I find something better that has all the gauges I want that match. Not only do I want a fuel gauge I also want a boost gauge, EGT Gauge, rear axle gauge, and a transmission gauge. This brand from Auto meter Phantom series offers all these gauges for a fair price. I found these gauges on egauges. The total from this website for all five gauges comes to a total price of $488.20. Not bad for the peace of mind of knowing that I can monitor all the vitals of my truck. I plan on getting a three gauge pod for the boost, EGT, and fuel. Then put the transmission and rear axle on the overhead console like you have seen on here before.

Here is the fuel gauge that I want;

http://www.egauges.com/vdo_mult3.asp?Type=Electric_Fuel_Pressure&Series=Phantom&Units=E

It is a little expensive than most of you have purchased but like stated above I want all my gauges to match.

I am not too worried about installing the fuel pressure gauge. All it will take is a trip to the hardware store brass fitting section and playing around. Plus I have the expert help of all the folks on here that will lead me in the right direction.

Thanks,
 
Keeping the same style gauges will also keep the night illumination the same across all the gauges. The new LED thru-the-face lighting is cool looking & effective. It's also quite a bit brighter than all the OEM dash lighting levels. Most of the LED thru lit gauges need a separate dimmer circuit if you want to get the aftermarket gauge lighting to similar levels with the stock dash.
 
To an extent they dim when wired into the common dash lighting with it's dimmer control. However, unlike incandescant bulbs that glow less & less as the voltage potential across them continues to go down, LED's dim as voltage drops until they hit a point where they simply go out. Guessing the voltage across the diode gets to low to bias the diode.

AutoMeter sells a dimming device specifically to be used with their LED gauges. I'm curious what components besides a potentiometer are in the little $28-30 box Autometer sells? Maybe I'm overthinking this, and the AutoMeter dimmer really is just a potentiometer (with a diff resistance range than stock dash dimmers)>

Anybody on the forum w/ knowledge of what components are in a dimmer circuit for LED's?
 
Thanks. And that's interesting. I suspected it took something more than a simple potentiometer to dim LEDs below the voltaget they just cut off.

At <$30, maybe the AutoMeter part sold specifically to dim their LED gauges is worth the cost for a ready made, designed for the application part!

Was raised on a farm where DIY efforts/skills were often the quickest way to get something up & running again. Now sometimes I gotta recognize when a ready-made part @ reasonable cost is better/faster than building my own wheel.
 
To bad everyone is not raised on a farm anymore. Too many people can't think outside the box anymore. Stifles alot of ingenuity and creativity.
 
Not only does everyone need a fuel pressure gauge, but everyone with OBD1 at least, needs to wire in a relay triggered by the OPS, instead of running power through the OPS. I got a "HD" OPS and it lasted one year, so then I just got what NAPA carries, and the OPS socket on their wall (which worked), and while there picked up a grease hose with 1/8" MPT fittings, got the 1/8" to 1/4" fittings and extended the OPS out. Important that the OPS itself needs to be grounded for oil pressure gauge use. Leroy at PMDcable.com sells a nice premade one, much simpler/better for $20. Had to use crows foot to tighten down the hose into the engine. For the relay, I just cut the grey wire on OPS harness, made the one from the OPS the trigger (contact 85), and the other side goes to the LP, which was relay output (contact 87). Ran battery power to relay contact 30, and grounded relay contact 86.

OBD2 guys run off of LP relay all the time when PCM is on, and so OPS can fail and not even realize it.
 
Not only does everyone need a fuel pressure gauge, but everyone with OBD1 at least, needs to wire in a relay triggered by the OPS, instead of running power through the OPS. I got a "HD" OPS and it lasted one year, so then I just got what NAPA carries, and the OPS socket on their wall (which worked), and while there picked up a grease hose with 1/8" MPT fittings, got the 1/8" to 1/4" fittings and extended the OPS out. Important that the OPS itself needs to be grounded for oil pressure gauge use. Leroy at PMDcable.com sells a nice premade one, much simpler/better for $20. Had to use crows foot to tighten down the hose into the engine. For the relay, I just cut the grey wire on OPS harness, made the one from the OPS the trigger (contact 85), and the other side goes to the LP, which was relay output (contact 87). Ran battery power to relay contact 30, and grounded relay contact 86.

OBD2 guys run off of LP relay all the time when PCM is on, and so OPS can fail and not even realize it.
Not to sure about that!
My 98 will only run the LP when the WTS light is on,fuel press will drop till oilpress builds and the LP starts pumping again.
 
Yes, thats because the PCM runs it off of different inputs. One of them being RPMs, which track right along with oil pressure. Try unplugging the OPS, oil pressure gauge will not work, but see if fuel pressure still goes up.
 
what co. makes the overhead gauge mount kit for a 6.5?

Brooklyn,

Unfortunately you have to make it yourself. I will attach a picture so you can see what I am talking about. I am sure you have seen this before.

Their is a lot of places you can place your gauges. On the floor seems to be popular or in the middle of the dash below the stereo.
 

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Yes, thats because the PCM runs it off of different inputs. One of them being RPMs, which track right along with oil pressure. Try unplugging the OPS, oil pressure gauge will not work, but see if fuel pressure still goes up.
then if the OPS is redundant for running LP,so whats up with the OPS as safety feature for fuel shut off in case of accident?
 
Brooklyn,

Unfortunately you have to make it yourself. I will attach a picture so you can see what I am talking about. I am sure you have seen this before.

Their is a lot of places you can place your gauges. On the floor seems to be popular or in the middle of the dash below the stereo.

Looks like you need to find an overhead console and install....nice look.

IIDSSM
 
Looks like you need to find an overhead console and install....nice look.

IIDSSM

I already have a overhead console in my truck. I just need the gauges! :D

See here is what my overhead console looks like.
 

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