• Welcome to The Truck Stop! We see you haven't REGISTERED yet.

    Your truck knowledge is missing!
    • Registration is FREE , all we need is your birthday and email. (We don't share ANY data with ANYONE)
    • We have tons of knowledge here for your diesel truck!
    • Post your own topics and reply to existing threads to help others out!
    • NO ADS! The site is fully functional and ad free!
    CLICK HERE TO REGISTER!

    Problems registering? Click here to contact us!

    Already registered, but need a PASSWORD RESET? CLICK HERE TO RESET YOUR PASSWORD!

Feed the Beast Fittings and Kit available now!

There's one O-ring at the fuel heater -bottom of fuel filter manager- and a small one at the water in fuel sensor.
One the upper part, one O-ring is coming with each filter.
The screen goes on the inner tube.

Thanks.

So large one at bottom for heater, small one for WIF sensor, and the one that comes with the filter.

So 3.

Now the WIF one, that sits behind the 2 screws plate?
 
Thanks.

So large one at bottom for heater, small one for WIF sensor, and the one that comes with the filter.

So 3.

Now the WIF one, that sits behind the 2 screws plate?

Yes, that's all of them. Sorry for the tardy reply, actually been working today! Getting in the way of my DTR time!
 
VegOut, how many O-Rings are there inside the Flt Mgr Assembly? The large one at the heater bowl, is there another?

Also, when you attach the 3/8ths hose to the hard line behind the mgr, is there a factory hoseclamp to remove and replace, or do you need to cut and slide new over and clamp?

Matt,

I think there is a hoseclamp back there. You must
be a contortionist to get at it. I always recommend taking
the upper and lower intake manifold off to do this job, just to make getting at the filter easier. Horrible GM location IMO.
 
Matt,

I think there is a hoseclamp back there. You must
be a contortionist to get at it. I always recommend taking
the upper and lower intake manifold off to do this job, just to make getting at the filter easier. Horrible GM location IMO.

Without a doubt upper/lower intakes off for this............

I think GM put it there so engine heat will thin out the diesel a little bit, so the heater doesn't run constant.

I notice a good psi or 2 of pressure once the flt mgr gets heatsoaked.
 
Hey Veg Out, the fitting you sell for the filter manager output, had you considered using 1/8"NPT to 3/8" hose barb? There is no restriction in this fitting, and less metal would need to be cut out to install the fittings.
 
Thank you Patrick for piecing this FTB kit together. I wouldn't have had a clue finding pieces, and it would have taken me forever.

My install went without incident, I replaced the lines back to the LP too.

Supply and return.

I think when the tranny was done they moved or replaced something with the return line as there was a hose clamp on it. It wasn't even tight. I'm sure I Was leaking good there.

My previous fittings seemed all good.

Did my FTB as per the instructions given by Walking J, and it all came out well.

There was some white sludge at the bottom of my old FLt mgr... I think it was something to do with my Bio experiement, which I'll never do again now that I saw this.

Test drive was excellent. Truck ran so strong. My fuel pressure doesn't drop instantly on throttle as it did before FTB. In fact it stays right at 5 - 5 1/2 unless I really get on it. My fuel spewed higher than ever outta my bleeder!

Happy Camper. Thanks Walking J!
 
Thank you Patrick for piecing this FTB kit together. I wouldn't have had a clue finding pieces, and it would have taken me forever.

My install went without incident, I replaced the lines back to the LP too.

Dumb question, Matt. You did have to take the intake off to do this, correct?
 
Dumb question, Matt. You did have to take the intake off to do this, correct?

Both of em, yep. Easy though Guy. And if they've been off recently probably don't need new gaskets. Although New gaskets are nice so you can tell if they are leaking (turn dark) Mine were replaced before winter when I installed my fuel pressure gauge, so I re-used.

Great time to add a fuel pressure gauge, or at least the T and length of hose for the sender. It will give you a nice test port until you get your FP gauge.

Put a rag in the lower when you remove the upper, and I put paper towels 1 in each of the intake ports.

Of course, be 100% sure you remove before re-assembly!

This just gives you plenty of working room in there... Probably takes 30 minutes taking them off... I don't rush.
 
well I didnt see any need to remove the lower intake. at least not until I went to put it all together and couldn't get the drain hose hooked up again! Ended up going to Lowes and buying a long pair of spring loaded needle nose pliers/cutters, reached down in and snagged it and forced it on. I ran the new ftb line up and around the side of the intake. I could have fed it under but I wanted room for my T for the fuel pressure gauge.
Got the air out of it, got it running, has ses light for a few minutes then that went away. Nothing appears to be leaking. I see 3 lbs of fuel pressure at idle, drops to zero if you romp on it. Couldn't really go for much of a test drive (watching the kids) but I parked the stroller on the front lawn and drove it around the cul-de-sac a couple times. Full throttle acceleration feels really good, too early to say if the high speed problem is solved. I notice I've got some lovely black smoke now. I thought it seemed lessened a little after installing the Kojo tune, but it's puffing pretty good now when you give it more throttle than you have forward momentum. So I'm feeling like at the very least I have plenty of fuel at my disposal.
 
well I didnt see any need to remove the lower intake. at least not until I went to put it all together and couldn't get the drain hose hooked up again! Ended up going to Lowes and buying a long pair of spring loaded needle nose pliers/cutters, reached down in and snagged it and forced it on. I ran the new ftb line up and around the side of the intake. I could have fed it under but I wanted room for my T for the fuel pressure gauge.
Got the air out of it, got it running, has ses light for a few minutes then that went away. Nothing appears to be leaking. I see 3 lbs of fuel pressure at idle, drops to zero if you romp on it. Couldn't really go for much of a test drive (watching the kids) but I parked the stroller on the front lawn and drove it around the cul-de-sac a couple times. Full throttle acceleration feels really good, too early to say if the high speed problem is solved. I notice I've got some lovely black smoke now. I thought it seemed lessened a little after installing the Kojo tune, but it's puffing pretty good now when you give it more throttle than you have forward momentum. So I'm feeling like at the very least I have plenty of fuel at my disposal.


Dan,

You need more fuel pressure. For sure more.
 
Dan,

You need more fuel pressure. For sure more.

X2, you have minimum fuel delivery, sustaining current needs, but at minimum, I surmise that if pulling a big load you would be less than 1 psi at IP inlet from what you are describing, sounds like lift is weak, or possibly some early plugging of tank sock. This is assuming that when you did FTB you installed a clean new filter element as well.
 
Well its like if you thought 5psi out the drain line was healthy, it was always only 3 psi at the IP. Thats why we need to raise them standards and you really need 8-12psi at the drain for good performance and no stock like pump will do that for you.
 
Whoops, I actually just posed a question about this in the other ftb thread, before I read this one.
I'll blow out the lp to tank line and wait for my frb-5 to arrive. My 93 lp is still pretty new, but maybe it's got weak voltage from ops or something. Speaking of which, can the Walbro be run off another source, or does it have to work off that ops harness?
 
Back
Top