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Eratic behavior from an 85' 6.2 (more below) requesting help please (Two vids in one)

The marks should line up when there is a new timing chain. As the chain stretches the timing is supposed to get adjusted. Gm called for 50,000 mile intervals but all the fleets and shops learned 30,000 is a more realistic interval. Doesn’t usually take much, width of a dime each time is fairly close for most. Using the timing gun is the proper way.
 
Will L. said:
The marks should line up when there is a new timing chain. As the chain stretches the timing is supposed to get adjusted. Gm called for 50,000 mile intervals but all the fleets and shops learned 30,000 is a more realistic interval. Doesn’t usually take much, width of a dime each time is fairly close for most. Using the timing gun is the proper way.
Click to expand...
Oh copy. I have not idea if my chain was ever adjusted or not, but I was told that going off that mark indicator was the way to go, and that since the two notches line up, it should all be good
 
So we have a double roller timing chain that goes from crank to camshaft. The ip is driven of the camshaft. As the chain stretches the cam timing retards which causes harder starting, lost power, etc. then the ip also injects later adding to the problem in itself. The late fuel injection is about 60% of the problem.

If you replace the timing chain with a gear drive set up - current made by Leroy Diesel and he named his “The Time Keeper” it eliminates ever having to retime it once set.

My suggestion to people is only fight the front of the engine once. Do that, front main seal, water pump, harmonic balancer & belt drive pulley if serpentine allmat once. One annoying and expensive weekend. Then it’s ready to rock for many years to come.
If you don’t understand why things like balancer needs changed or others- do ask.
Bad balancer ruined engine and there are complete garbage ones out there for sale -
 
He isn’t gonna know without tearing into the engine. It isn’t worth the check.
Just putting a timing gun on there to verify proper injection timing will do it. I just mentioned the cause of why lining up the two marks doesn’t solve the issue.

We have to remember back then the warranty was 36,000 miles. No real care or concern was given outside of warranty other than keep it running in an “ok” status. Hence the timing tool.
 
I prefer Mobil 1 5w40 synthetic or rotella t6, but with leaks that gets expensive. lots of folks run the wally world cheap 15-40. it all depends on how you drive it, or work it. how many miles you go between changes. if you do the changes every 3k miles, regular old dino oil is fine so long as it had the proper zddp content for the roller lifters and cam.

as for leaks, these engines are known for valve cover leaks. it's an ordeal to do them and get them sealed up. might be worth it to get you some oven cleaner or super clean and soak your engine down, then use a high powered pressure washer to clean the engine. run it for a day or so and inspect where leaks are coming from.
 
dbrannon79 said:
I prefer Mobil 1 5w40 synthetic or rotella t6, but with leaks that gets expensive. lots of folks run the wally world cheap 15-40. it all depends on how you drive it, or work it. how many miles you go between changes. if you do the changes every 3k miles, regular old dino oil is fine so long as it had the proper zddp content for the roller lifters and cam.

as for leaks, these engines are known for valve cover leaks. it's an ordeal to do them and get them sealed up. might be worth it to get you some oven cleaner or super clean and soak your engine down, then use a high powered pressure washer to clean the engine. run it for a day or so and inspect where leaks are coming from.
Click to expand...
Yup, every 3K miles is when i change the oil, that being said, how safe would it be to coat the entire motor with engine degreaser, and then wash it all off with a pressure washer?
 
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