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Eratic behavior from an 85' 6.2 (more below) requesting help please (Two vids in one)

MrMarty51 said:
Strap down a five gallon fuel jug on the floor in the right side passenger area. Providing this Blazer still has the mechanical lift pump bolted to the block.
Disconnect the hose right at the lift pump, bring another hose from the fuel jug to the lift pump and start a siphon, plug the hose into the lift pump at first sign of fuel. The fuel hose can be threaded through the pour spout of the fuel jug to help in not creating a mess.
Now take it for a drive and see how it performs.
Click to expand...
Will do that this weekend sir
 
So my friend told his father about my issues, his father is an old school Diesel tech aswell (owned 6.2s and powerstrokes) he did mention that the fuel sending unit (and the sock filter in the tank) could have possibly gone bad aswell (along with the rubber lines that go to the unit)

Would that also be valid?

Found these online, would these work?






Not sure which Fuel Sending Unit is the right one, so many out there
 
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MrMarty51 said:
As discouraging as this might seem, realize that You will find the culprit and it then will all be as new and good to go for a very long time.

It ran good for a distance, during that run the fuel level in the fuel tank dropped some.
Possible that if there are holes rusted through the pickup tube that those holes got exposed and now it is allowing air incursion ?
Click to expand...
May very well be, only way to find out

Drop tank time
 
NO!!!! Do not swap the ip. 99.9% that is not your problem!

The clear line can be on there for years and years. The pvc cheap stuff lasts 3 years anywhere I have seen, 4-5 years most places. The good stuff from fuel-line.com is permanent as in should outlast the black rubber line.
 
If you have an air intrusion- that incoming air will be the same problem with the new ip. If it is doing damage to the current ip, it will do identical damage to the new ip.
Look it up. Misdiagnosis of bad ip is the #1 failur if this fuel system.
I have seen this happen literally hundreds of times.
You are heading down a bad, bad road. I suggest just selling the truck if you won’t diagnose it right. It will save you money and aggravation.

Otherwise do what I am telling you. I have worked on literally thousands and thousands of these. YOU ARE DOING IT WRONG.

Not trying to be a jerk, trying to be clear.
 
Will L. said:
If you have an air intrusion- that incoming air will be the same problem with the new ip. If it is doing damage to the current ip, it will do identical damage to the new ip.
Look it up. Misdiagnosis of bad ip is the #1 failur if this fuel system.
I have seen this happen literally hundreds of times.
You are heading down a bad, bad road. I suggest just selling the truck if you won’t diagnose it right. It will save you money and aggravation.

Otherwise do what I am telling you. I have worked on literally thousands and thousands of these. YOU ARE DOING IT WRONG.

Not trying to be a jerk, trying to be clear.
Click to expand...
I should have been more clear, I don't plan on swapping out the IP, I meant that I plan on replacing hoses, doing the jug of diesel test, etc
 
Rarely do you get the volume of air that you have all at once.
Aeration will contribute to that- but if it is just cold-
Then there are things to do to help.

According to books- the ip has a line and the timing cover has a line and you just line them up for engine timing. However, the timing chain stretches enough that you should adjust your timing about every 30,000 miles.
Verify the cold advance is working.
Only run AC Delco 60G glow plugs because they are self limiting and won’t swell up/break off. This can destroy the engine- but the downside is you have to cycle them a couple times.

But don’t bother with any of it until the air issue is fixed. GM made checking for air first on the list for a good reason.
 
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