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CKO Provent 200 Oil Catch Cans

As to replacing the rings but the block being cracked-
The heads have to come off- the crankshaft could stay in place.
But by time you remove both heads, knock the pistons out, install new rings and put back together- not many folks do all this and not rebuild everything while there.

Pickups make an inframe really hard. Water shock clean by doing water down the intake trick to begin so you aren’t fighting pounds of carbon. Pull both heads, Jack the engine enough to remove the oil pan. Undo rod nut and drive out pistons. A fast ball hone swipe, throw on new rings after gapping them- hopefully realizing gapless is the best chance here. And slide it back together.
Maybe new rod bearings just because they are already out- if oil pressure was great and money is not- reinstall the originals
Super goop from our friends at permatex the pan on.
Drop back into engine mounts, new head gaskets and new head bolts are not an option.

Will the compression be perfect- is it a proper rebuild? Nope. You just brought things a whole lot closer to spec.

But this is something best done when a standby truck can take its place if something goes wrong. Its a lot of effort to save some oil, usually reserved for too low of compression to start scenarios.
 
The re-ring thing was a thought. after I finish up trying to straighten out the front bumper for the grille to fit (unless I end up pulling it off completely) I will attempt to do a video on the blowby and post it up. see what yall think and see how much is where it gets to the danger zone kind of thing.

Oh kinda off topic... when I swapped the tops of the IP from the 6.2 I had to pull the upper intake of. I noticed that the inside of the intake on the 6.2 was super clean and oil free. not sure if that is a good sign for it, but it was clean and dry. makes me think leaning more towards prepping it to go in this truck. instead of a re-ring job!
 
I finally got around to finishing the front grille, also shortened the blue hose from the provent to the intake tube. I also took a pic of the oil standing in the hose coming out of the CDR that runs to the provent. I have now lost about a quart of oil but there is still hardly anything in the soda bottle I have attached to the drain hose.

IMG_4923.jpg
IMG_4924.jpg
IMG_4925.jpg
IMG_4926.jpg
 
Clean the intake plenum and the turbo inducer wheel of oil. Make it shiny new clean.
Put miles on it and track the oil loss, compared to the amount captured in the provent. Open up the plenum again and inspect for oil that could have bypassed the provent. If there is still oil bypassing- then you can get the proper filter in the provent, mess with line routing and trying with/ without cdr.

If clean-
Any missing oil has either leaked out bad seals of the engine, blown past the turbo seal, or the more likely: oil is going past the valve stem and getting burned.
Nothing to do there but major surgery into the head of your patient.
 
Sounds like a plan. I forgot to mention I just added a 16 oz can of the restore oil additive today too.

we went into town to pickup my son from his friends house, returned home and I left it running in the driveway. I needed to adjust the headlights. popped the hood open and noticed blowby coming out of the provent cap!! I took it off while it was running to see if the over-pressure relief was opening up. Nope... somehow it was leaking past the o-ring seal in the top piece. since this part had separated from the actual cap, I put it back in without the cap and it sealed but pressing down on it it seems to leak. putting the threaded cap back on and it leaks worse. it seems that if I leave the threaded cap slightly loose it stops leaking. I might need to look at replacing that o-ring with a thicker o-ring. I'm sure as the plastic housing warms up it expands and deforms allowing it to leak past that o-ring.
 
MrMarty51 said:
So You would not run the CDR to the new pro vent ?

Interesting that they reversed the inlet/outlet hoses.
Without going back through many posts, I believe it was @dbrannon79 had mentioned doing just that but then also mentioned possible problems with a valve too.
Click to expand...

I wouldn't run the new Provent2 with a CDR, but my comment was more to the fact that if I hadn't already spent $60ish to replace my old CDR valve, I'd spend the $180 to do a Provent2 conversion, instead. I don't have excessive blowby or oil consumption (knock on wood) so it's more of a want than a need.
 
Big T said:
Well I’m going to use the CDR because I can’t find or make an elbow that fits snugly in place of the CDR.
Click to expand...

What about cutting the base tube of the CDR off and fitting it with a rubber elbow then? That way you still have an OEM style connection that fits in the valve cover grommet. I doubt they're the same size, but if they're in stock locally you could have the parts store guys grab a 7.3 IDI valve tube to compare with the 6.5 grommet.
 
This guy made a coupler for his IDI using a 1" barbed fitting. Again I don't know what size our 6.5 grommets are but it's an idea.

www.thedieselstop.com

CDR for 6.9 turbo and tube

www.thedieselstop.com www.thedieselstop.com

attachment.php
 
drag sgt said:
This guy made a coupler for his IDI using a 1" barbed fitting. Again I don't know what size our 6.5 grommets are but it's an idea.

www.thedieselstop.com

CDR for 6.9 turbo and tube

www.thedieselstop.com www.thedieselstop.com

attachment.php
Click to expand...
They are 1 1/16”. I tried a 1” stainless barbed elbow, but it’s too loose. I would need a pipe bead rolling tool:
Hiwowsport Tube Pipe Tubing Beader Tool Bead Roller Intake and Intercooler Piping Fits 5/8"
https://a.co/d/5PIV5gu
 
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Big T said:
They are 1 1/16”. I tried a 1” stainless barbed elbow, but it’s too loose. I would need a pipe bead rolling tool:
Hiwowsport Tube Pipe Tubing Beader Tool Bead Roller Intake and Intercooler Piping Fits 5/8"
https://a.co/d/5PIV5gu
Click to expand...
I believe that War Wagon sent along a white barbed coupler fitting that fits the CDR grommet in the valve cover very nicely.
If it was something that He didnt send then I must have had it in my spare fittings cannister.
I needed to raise up the CDR to accomodate that ATT turbo and that white plastic fitting fit the hole very nicely.
 
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aluminum pipe for making the fitting. Use a pair of wire crimper to make your own bead. Need the YouTube video again to show how?
If using steel pipe, weld a bead around it.

1.25” mentioned as size - just type in amazon. 90° fittings, straight, whatever ya need.
 
First video is visual only- real quick, the second goes into depth more. Just remember this pliers trick ONLY works on aluminum
(So long as the 90° fitting you found is the right diameter- yes thats all ya need. )


 
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Well after about a week of running this CKO provent here is how much oil it had caught, though the engine has drank at least another full quart.

I am considering swapping the in and out connections so the CDR hose is connected to the lower part and the intake hose is on the top side and see if that changes anything before I order the real provent filter.

IMG_4955.jpg
 
Is that hose out the bottom of the provent? If so- you did use the little plastic inline valve, right? Without it wont function right unless the hose end is sealed or under the fluid level. It’s shown at the 3:30 time in the video in post #10.

Are you running the stainless filter currently?

All the oil you catch is better than burning it for sure.
 
Will L. said:
Is that hose out the bottom of the provent? If so- you did use the little plastic inline valve, right? Without it wont function right unless the hose end is sealed or under the fluid level. It’s shown at the 3:30 time in the video in post #10.

Are you running the stainless filter currently?

All the oil you catch is better than burning it for sure.
Click to expand...
Yes that clear hose is connected to the bottom of the provent and no I must have missed the part about an inline valve. it's just pushed into the top of the soda bottle. I did put another slit in the lid of the soda bottle so it could breath some and when it's running there is a little of the blowby gasses that push out of that hose and vent from the lid. You can see some residue that has leaked out and the top ziptie is wet with oil.

Stainless filter is still in the provent. I did wrap the mesh with two used dryer sheets which are now saturated with oil, my thought was once they get saturated or wet it might help to catch oil but still be breathable.
 
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