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Center mount turbo

buddy said:
Did you get wheel measurements and any more pics of the turbo separate? What size are the housings, from the side the compressor housing does not look bigger than the HX40's?
Click to expand...

Knowing your propensity to doubt everyone's word, I will post a pic of the tag on the compressor housing. Then you can do your own research :)
 
Cumminsfever said:
Knowing your propensity to doubt everyone's word, I will post a pic of the tag on the compressor housing. Then you can do your own research :)
Click to expand...

I dont doubt everyone, just people that have proven themselves doubtable. And how could I doubt a ruler measurement? And if you don't share information its not much of an innovation or use to other people.
 
buddy said:
Once you get the old clamshells off its not bad drilling out the rivets and putting the ES mounts in. Then the zip ties just hold it together until the bolts on the frame really clamp it down. I would recommend not using stock rubber mounts. The ES are much better. There is an install thread around here or my list of recommendations cover it with the different part numbers and which one to use. Have to make sure to install them with the tabs in the correct orientation.
Click to expand...

Nothing wrong with rubber mounts. I'm putting out around 450 at the flywheel, and the rubber mounts are doing great. I did install 3/16" blocks to limit the engines movement inside the clamshells though. And I know BIGLEY's DMAX truck is putting down almost 700 to the wheels through a set of stock rubber mounts.
 
THEFERMANATOR said:
Nothing wrong with rubber mounts. I'm putting out around 450 at the flywheel, and the rubber mounts are doing great. I did install 3/16" blocks to limit the engines movement inside the clamshells though. And I know BIGLEY's DMAX truck is putting down almost 700 to the wheels through a set of stock rubber mounts.
Click to expand...

Are they the same as a 6.5 mount? And do you want to change them in 3 years? There was something wrong with my stock mount for a long time, since before I bought it, although it was 13 years old at that time. On stock power, but we have had older vehicles that never had to change a mount. IMO there is something wrong with the stock rubber mount, since it doesnt fill in the clamshell which allows it to sag. If you modified some to resolve that then thats another solution.
 
Wow HX55 !! How long does it take to get to 27-30 psi. One would think that size turbo would be laggy, but on plus side it is center mounted nice setup by the way.
 
buddy said:
Are they the same as a 6.5 mount? And do you want to change them in 3 years? There was something wrong with my stock mount for a long time, since before I bought it, although it was 13 years old at that time. On stock power, but we have had older vehicles that never had to change a mount. IMO there is something wrong with the stock rubber mount, since it doesnt fill in the clamshell which allows it to sag. If you modified some to resolve that then thats another solution.
Click to expand...

Bone stock 6.5 mounts straight from GM, made in CANADA ones(before GM went to the chinese imports). And I have no plans of changing them this year as they will be 3 years old in July. Bigley runs a set un modified and has been for about 6 years now and he said he has had no settling or problems with his either. They will settle over time though, and that is why I added limiter blocks to prevent it from settling as far. I will gladly change rubber mounts every 10 years VS dealing with the idle vibrations I had with the ES's installed.
 
Yep...Rubber for me also...I could have went with solid mounts from Merchant or through bolted the OEM's...but I wanted a smooth ride,...even at +-600rwhp
 
BBB82 said:
Wow HX55 !! How long does it take to get to 27-30 psi. One would think that size turbo would be laggy, but on plus side it is center mounted nice setup by the way.
Click to expand...

Exactly what I was thinking too. But nonetheless an HX55 is definitely cool to see ran on a 6.2 engine. Did you have to change the exhaust housing? Because I know you said it's full 4" exhaust and most HX55 turbos have a 5" outlet. Have to adapt and reduce in size right at the turbo outlet? Hey, spooling it to 30 psi is great...now just run a raped ape 4911 or .33 plunger pump and that turbo becomes even more fun! :thumbsup:
 
buddy said:
Did you get wheel measurements and any more pics of the turbo separate? What size are the housings, from the side the compressor housing does not look bigger than the HX40's?
Click to expand...

2012-07-05_10-52-59_678.jpg

http://i1163.photobucket.com/albums/q555/Cumminsfever/2012-07-05_10-52-59_678.jpg

Obviously photobucket editor is a joke...
 
Last edited by a moderator:
BBB82 said:
Wow HX55 !! How long does it take to get to 27-30 psi. One would think that size turbo would be laggy, but on plus side it is center mounted nice setup by the way.
Click to expand...

By 1500rpm I can make 5lb boost. By 2000 I can easily make 20psi. At 2500, it is at full 30psi.


dieselfuelonly said:
Did you have to change the exhaust housing? Because I know you said it's full 4" exhaust and most HX55 turbos have a 5" outlet. Have to adapt and reduce in size right at the turbo outlet? Hey, spooling it to 30 psi is great...now just run a raped ape 4911 or .33 plunger pump and that turbo becomes even more fun! :thumbsup:
Click to expand...

Exhaust housing was a weird marmon flange. I turned it into hx40 style outlet.

Don't kid yourself on the ability of a properly machined .29 plunger pump. I can easily flood the engine if it aint got enough boost :)
 
BBB82 said:
Wow HX55 !! One would think that size turbo would be laggy, but on plus side it is center mounted nice setup by the way.
Click to expand...

It all depends on the housing sizes and wheels. His may have an 18cm^2 exhaust housing, or some people get smaller. The center mount helps get all the exhaust pressure to it much more efficiently as well.

THEFERMANATOR said:
Bone stock 6.5 mounts straight from GM, made in CANADA ones(before GM went to the chinese imports).
Click to expand...
And if what you get now days is cheap crap, it might not be the same. Plus the 6.5td in stock form has an unbalanced load with the crummy passenger turbo manifold and turbo putting a torque on the mount at all times, even at rest. Then we do things like put heavier turbos on them. Its anyones choice, but I wouldnt use the stock ones in their stock form.
 
How Buddy thinks my truck runs: :D :rof: 6.5 dyno graph.jpg


How it actually runs: Actual 6.5.jpg

Pay no attention to the numbers, notice the graph. Kinda how it is. The turbo never "hits", it's just always there. No big power spike from the turbo lighting.
 
I never said your truck runs bad, I applaud your fabrication skills, and I was trying to explain that the turbo number doesnt matter, its the physical configuration, and fueling profile. It would be easier if the turbos didnt have such a wide range of wheel and housing sizes, it makes them very different. If that is the 94 truck, youll have to change your sig from 6.5 to 6.2 and gutless wonder to sleeper surprise.

That curve may be alright, it all depends what the actual numbers are. Like if you have 400ftlbs at 2000rpm, but peak is 500ftlbs at 2800rpm, thats already going to be awesome down low, but I am not a fan of just shifting the torque curve to the right too much, sacrificing low end grunt. Although, is there any pedaling you have to do to prevent surging?
 
buddy said:
I never said your truck runs bad, I applaud your fabrication skills, and I was trying to explain that the turbo number doesnt matter, its the physical configuration, and fueling profile. It would be easier if the turbos didnt have such a wide range of wheel and housing sizes, it makes them very different. If that is the 94 truck, youll have to change your sig from 6.5 to 6.2 and gutless wonder to sleeper surprise.

That curve may be alright, it all depends what the actual numbers are. Like if you have 400ftlbs at 2000rpm, but peak is 500ftlbs at 2800rpm, thats already going to be awesome down low, but I am not a fan of just shifting the torque curve to the right too much, sacrificing low end grunt. Although, is there any pedaling you have to do to prevent surging?
Click to expand...

Yes, it is the 94 truck in my sig. And it is still a gutless wonder to me, as it is the lowest horsepower truck I own.
The turbo don't surge or bark. It is smooth. VERY smooth.
I do hafta "pedal" to keep if from smoking. I can easily flood the thing if it don't got enough air to support the fuel.

We have dyno day coming up this fall. If it stays together, I hope to dyno it.
(maybe by then I'll have a db4 pump!)
 
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