Bye-bye Gov-Lock, Hello Tru Trac, plus gear swap and brakes

[ak diesel driver]

I've heard of pressure bleeding from the bleeders. Never been around it though

 

[n8in8or]

I've heard of pressure bleeding from the bleeders. Never been around it though

Hmmm, pushing the fluid up through the master cylinder?

 

[n8in8or]

This is what I use, it’s a Mityvac pump.

 

[MrMarty51]

I've heard of pressure bleeding from the bleeders. Never been around it though

I too have hear of doing it this way but have never had the equipment to give it a try.
For drum brakes, is there a check valve in the master cylinder ? I`m not sure about the newer twin piston masters, I have had them afart and don't remember if they were like the old single piston units.
Also, IMO, if there is dirt and crud in older components, it might be deadly to a proper working master cylinder.

 

[n8in8or]

Also, IMO, if there is dirt and crud in older components, it might be deadly to a proper working master cylinder.

I've never heard of this, but that statement right there is reason enough for me not to try it.

 

[ak diesel driver]

I hear of them doing it that way after they couldn't get the air out the other way, normally hung up in the ABS or something. So it would have clean fluid then.

 

[Hink]

I use a manual vacuum pump and suck the fluid out through the bleeders. I can’t usually get a good enough seal to see when I’ve removed bubbles (because it draws air past the bleeder threads), so I just run enough fluid through the system that it had to have removed the air. I also like to leave the bleeders open for a while before I vacuum pump...letting things just gravity bleed, but I don’t love that I could be adding moisture to the system by having it open that long - it does help me get more fluid through the system though.

I made a home made pressure bleeder out of a sprayer, but I found that most master cylinder covers seal so poorly that I just ended up making a huge mess at the MC from all the fluid leaking past the lid seal. I had a gauge on the tank and it would leak at just 1psi sometimes. Plus you need a dedicated lid for each style of master cylinder for that method. So I’ve gone back to vacuum bleeding.

Ok, yeah I've tried the mighty vac too but didn't have a lot of success with it, I don't remember why now but the next time I went to use it, it had corroded so badly I was afraid to try it.

I recently got two more methods, the speed bleeder, and the motive power bleeder, which is like your sprayer bleeder.
I've heard of the sealing problems but have some ideas to resolve them so I'm still very interested in trying it.
I'll let you know how it goes.

 

[n8in8or]

Got my new gears today.



It took me probably 8 tries to find a shim stack that gave me a good backlash. The slip of paper in the box said to aim for .004” of backlash even though other sources suggest more. The closest I could get with the shims I had and without going too tight was about .0055” so I called that good.

Then it was time to check the pattern to see how the pinion depth is. I don’t know, I guess it’s this compound. I didn’t have this much trouble with the compound that came with the installation kit I used for the Motive Gears, but I am having a heck of a time reading this stuff. This stuff is Ratech 500. I THINK from the way the pattern looks, I need a little more backlash and I need to remove some pinion shim.



I searched around online and only found the Prussian Blue locally. I may have to try it. I called 3 big truck shops that were open - 2 didn’t have it (the first one didn’t even know what I was talking about and had to ask the mechanic what it was), and the third one didn’t answer the phone. So I ordered some Richmond compound from Summit. It said it would ship today still, and usually shipments get to me the next day. Fingers crossed. Even if the new compound doesn’t show up tomorrow I’ll try to keep playing with it and see if I can figure it out.

 

[EWC]

Usually I bleed the opposite way most people were taught . Open the bleeder , push down the pedal and then shut the bleeder . This forces fluid down and out the line and does not compress air in the system . Otherwise you are just compressing air and only get a little out at a time . When you start getting fluid out then go back to the regular way . The Tech2 has a self bleed option as well . Weird to use but it works .

 

[n8in8or]

Usually I bleed the opposite way most people were taught . Open the bleeder , push down the pedal and then shut the bleeder . This forces fluid down and out the line and does not compress air in the system . Otherwise you are just compressing air and only get a little out at a time . When you start getting fluid out then go back to the regular way . The Tech2 has a self bleed option as well . Weird to use but it works .

That makes sense to me.

 

[Hink]

Got my new gears today.

View attachment 52744 View attachment 52745

It took me probably 8 tries to find a shim stack that gave me a good backlash. The slip of paper in the box said to aim for .004” of backlash even though other sources suggest more. The closest I could get with the shims I had and without going too tight was about .0055” so I called that good.

Then it was time to check the pattern to see how the pinion depth is. I don’t know, I guess it’s this compound. I didn’t have this much trouble with the compound that came with the installation kit I used for the Motive Gears, but I am having a heck of a time reading this stuff. This stuff is Ratech 500. I THINK from the way the pattern looks, I need a little more backlash and I need to remove some pinion shim.

View attachment 52746 View attachment 52747

I searched around online and only found the Prussian Blue locally. I may have to try it. I called 3 big truck shops that were open - 2 didn’t have it (the first one didn’t even know what I was talking about and had to ask the mechanic what it was), and the third one didn’t answer the phone. So I ordered some Richmond compound from Summit. It said it would ship today still, and usually shipments get to me the next day. Fingers crossed. Even if the new compound doesn’t show up tomorrow I’ll try to keep playing with it and see if I can figure it out.

I just figured the Prussian Blue may provide a deeper contrast and be easier to read. It'll be interesting to see!

 

[n8in8or]

I had to run some errands tonight, so the only thing I had time to do was run the pattern with the Prussian Blue. Man, what a difference between it and the Ratech 500! The Richmond yellow compound will be here tomorrow, so I will compare that one, too.



With how this pattern looks, I would say that I need to pull some pinion shim out to get the pattern more to the crown of the teeth. I may want just a touch more backlash, too, but moving the pinion away should naturally give me some more of that. I’ll run the pattern with the Richmond compound tomorrow night and then start tinkering.

 

[THEFERMANATOR]

Got my new gears today.

View attachment 52744 View attachment 52745

It took me probably 8 tries to find a shim stack that gave me a good backlash. The slip of paper in the box said to aim for .004” of backlash even though other sources suggest more. The closest I could get with the shims I had and without going too tight was about .0055” so I called that good.

Then it was time to check the pattern to see how the pinion depth is. I don’t know, I guess it’s this compound. I didn’t have this much trouble with the compound that came with the installation kit I used for the Motive Gears, but I am having a heck of a time reading this stuff. This stuff is Ratech 500. I THINK from the way the pattern looks, I need a little more backlash and I need to remove some pinion shim.

View attachment 52746 View attachment 52747

I searched around online and only found the Prussian Blue locally. I may have to try it. I called 3 big truck shops that were open - 2 didn’t have it (the first one didn’t even know what I was talking about and had to ask the mechanic what it was), and the third one didn’t answer the phone. So I ordered some Richmond compound from Summit. It said it would ship today still, and usually shipments get to me the next day. Fingers crossed. Even if the new compound doesn’t show up tomorrow I’ll try to keep playing with it and see if I can figure it out.

I would say you need to take about .004 or .005 pinion shim out and reprint it. My dad used to use the blue when he set them up, I used the yellow because we got it in a pint can at the dealership. We had ALOT of diff problems back them with Dana's in the Grand Cherokee(30, 35, & 44's), 8 1/4's in the Cherokee(surprisingly the Dana's in them were pretty trouble free), and 9 1/4's in the Durango(see a pattern with it being mostly SUV's), so Chrysler had dry film and printing compound in pint cans. Another thing to try and get a better print is wrap a rag around the pinion, and rotate the ring gear with a wrench. Somethi,g about the reverse pressure gives a cleaner pattern.

 

[n8in8or]

I would say you need to take about .004 or .005 pinion shim out and reprint it. My dad used to use the blue when he set them up, I used the yellow because we got it in a pint can at the dealership. We had ALOT of diff problems back them with Dana's in the Grand Cherokee(30, 35, & 44's), 8 1/4's in the Cherokee(surprisingly the Dana's in them were pretty trouble free), and 9 1/4's in the Durango(see a pattern with it being mostly SUV's), so Chrysler had dry film and printing compound in pint cans. Another thing to try and get a better print is wrap a rag around the pinion, and rotate the ring gear with a wrench. Somethi,g about the reverse pressure gives a cleaner pattern.

Cool! Thanks for the tips. I was trying to put some tension on the pinion by holding onto the yoke with my hand, but it wasn’t very consistent. I’ll try the rag trick.

 

[n8in8or]

(see a pattern with it being mostly SUV's)

Was it mostly SUVs because the typical SUV owner is more picky or because the sound transmits into the cab easier since the cabin space is over the axle?

 

[Hink]

Ok, yeah I've tried the mighty vac too but didn't have a lot of success with it, I don't remember why now but the next time I went to use it, it had corroded so badly I was afraid to try it.

I recently got two more methods, the speed bleeder, and the motive power bleeder, which is like your sprayer bleeder.
I've heard of the sealing problems but have some ideas to resolve them so I'm still very interested in trying it.
I'll let you know how it goes.

Maaaan do I feel dumb.
Speed bleeders. Stupid easy, stupid awesome, stupid cheap (relatively).
I haven't even tried the pressure bleeder yet, but with how easy the speed bleeders worked (install on the rears were a bit of a bitch), I feel a bit stupid for buying it now. And especially stupid for not getting these sooner.

From now on all I'll need is a wrench, a rubber hose, and a jar.
I used the Russell brand off Amazon.

 

[THEFERMANATOR]

Was it mostly SUVs because the typical SUV owner is more picky or because the sound transmits into the cab easier since the cabin space is over the axle?

SUV's act like a speaker box amplifying every noise. It's the reason I didn't mess around with cheap gears in my burb and went straight for aam. We also had diff problems in pickup's with topper's because of the speaker box effect. Having a box over the diff acts just like a speaker amplifying every noise.

 

[n8in8or]

SUV's act like a speaker box amplifying every noise. It's the reason I didn't mess around with cheap gears in my burb and went straight for aam. We also had diff problems in pickup's with topper's because of the speaker box effect. Having a box over the diff acts just like a speaker amplifying every noise.

I wondered that with the Motive Gears - if it was a pickup it probably would have been fine.

 

[n8in8or]

Maaaan do I feel dumb.
Speed bleeders. Stupid easy, stupid awesome, stupid cheap (relatively).
I haven't even tried the pressure bleeder yet, but with how easy the speed bleeders worked (install on the rears were a bit of a bitch), I feel a bit stupid for buying it now. And especially stupid for not getting these sooner.

From now on all I'll need is a wrench, a rubber hose, and a jar.
I used the Russell brand off Amazon.

I've always wanted to try speed bleeders, I just never have.

 

[JayTheCPA]

FWIW, I went with Yukon's (per the tranny shop's recommendation). Only noises I hear are the motor, exhaust, and clutch. If the differential does make any noise, it has too much competition to get heard