Another 2 door Tahoe for me

[n8in8or]

What is on the end of the shielding? Heat shrink tubing?

Yep, just heat shrink. It’s 3-to-1 shrink ratio that is lined with adhesive. The sleeving will unravel when it’s cut, so you have to cut it with a hot knife and even then it might could eventually unravel, plus the heat shrink gives it a more finished look regardless.

 

[n8in8or]

I was looking up that holley pump wondering what psi/ volume. I saw they even make a matching designed regulator. That is really cool set up and nicely compact.
Ya got me thinking again. Excited to see results

I’ll have to look up that regulator. I’m liking the compactness of the filter and pump. This setup is way overkill for the DS4, but it should work very nicely for future stuffs.

 

[dbrannon79]

Nice! that pump isn't too pricy and shows to output 100 GPM at 60 psi. with that volume of flow the IP will never be starved for fuel!

 

[n8in8or]

Nice! that pump isn't too pricy and shows to output 100 GPM at 60 psi. with that volume of flow the IP will never be starved for fuel!

Yup! Plenty of fuels.

 

[SnowDrift]

Yep, just heat shrink. It’s 3-to-1 shrink ratio that is lined with adhesive. The sleeving will unravel when it’s cut, so you have to cut it with a hot knife and even then it might could eventually unravel, plus the heat shrink gives it a more finished look regardless.

Nice!

 

[jrsavoie]

Is the pump flow through on fail?

 

[n8in8or]

Is the pump flow through on fail?

I don't have that answer, but I can test it once I have it up and running.

 

[jrsavoie]

I don't have that answer, but I can test it once I have it up and running.

Keep us updated, like you do.

It's appreciated

 

[n8in8or]

I got the tank all buttoned up. After getting the tank bolted up with the new hardware I installed the fill and vent hoses. I bought a new steel filler neck and painted that with the Rust Seal. I also bought a new filler hose, but unfortunately it didn’t fit right - it was inches short. Honestly though, it never really surprises me when a part isn’t right for a rare 2 door, diesel Tahoe. Fortunately I was able to get the factory one off in one piece and it cleaned up ok. The vent hose is new AC Delco 30r7 5/8” hose.



I also got the skid plate installed. This skid plate is off of the black Tahoe because I already had it sandblasted and painted with Rust Seal……and I plan on running a shallower tank on the black Tahoe because it’s going to get lowered so it wasn’t going to get used anyway.

 

[SnowDrift]

I think this was the problem - chinese sizes on things usually run a little small.

 

[n8in8or]

A couple weeks ago I drove the Tahoe at night for the first time and the visibility SUCKED!! So while I had it in the barn I decided to put some better housings on it and wire the lights with relays so they’d get more voltage. I also did the 4 high mod while I was doing relays. And then the LEDs I have in the Envoy went on sale so I also got those. I made a whole new harness with 14 gauge wire to the bulbs. Now it just uses the existing harness to trigger the relays, so now a bunch of load is off the light switch. I still have to tidy up the wiring, but I have verified it all works as intended. Should be MUCH better at night now.



The wiring for the fuel pump is nearly done - I got delayed because I didn’t have the circuit breaker I needed, so I couldn’t finish the mounting bracket. I got that done today and now the paint is drying. Fuel system will be up and running this week.

 

[jrsavoie]

A couple weeks ago I drove the Tahoe at night for the first time and the visibility SUCKED!! So while I had it in the barn I decided to put some better housings on it and wire the lights with relays so they’d get more voltage. I also did the 4 high mod while I was doing relays. And then the LEDs I have in the Envoy went on sale so I also got those. I made a whole new harness with 14 gauge wire to the bulbs. Now it just uses the existing harness to trigger the relays, so now a bunch of load is off the light switch. I still have to tidy up the wiring, but I have verified it all works as intended. Should be MUCH better at night now.

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The wiring for the fuel pump is nearly done - I got delayed because I didn’t have the circuit breaker I needed, so I couldn’t finish the mounting bracket. I got that done today and now the paint is drying. Fuel system will be up and running this week.

I thought I had done the 4 high light relay upgrade.

Not on that vehicle?

 

[n8in8or]

I thought I had done the 4 high light relay upgrade.

Not on that vehicle?

Not that I saw, but to be honest I didn’t look to see if all 4 were lit up on high. I wanted to make the larger gauge harness for the headlights regardless, so it would have negated anything you would have done before anyway. The only non-factory relays I’ve found were the ones you added on the firewall for the lift pump, unless they’re hiding under the dash?

 

[jrsavoie]

Not that I saw, but to be honest I didn’t look to see if all 4 were lit up on high. I wanted to make the larger gauge harness for the headlights regardless, so it would have negated anything you would have done before anyway. The only non-factory relays I’ve found were the ones you added on the firewall for the lift pump, unless they’re hiding under the dash?

I believe would have used the 14 ga on the harness.

I would have thought you would have noticed the relays. If they were there. They would have been right by the left battery.


I used a plug and play harness on some. No cutting or splicing

 

[n8in8or]

I believe would have used the 14 ga on the harness.

I would have thought you would have noticed the relays. If they were there. They would have been right by the left battery.


I used a plug and play harness on some. No cutting or splicing

Nope, it was definitely the factory harness that was plugged into the headlights. Sounds like I did what you intended to do to the truck….I’m just picking up where you left off.

 

[SnowDrift]

LED lights are nice for the driver, but SUCK for the oncoming traffic if not aimed properly. I pass about three to four people every day on the way to work. All have LED lights but one of them in a piece of ford has them aimed right at oncoming traffic's windshield. They're awful. His dim and bright is nearly the same. When it's raining or foggy, I usually coast when I see him coming because it simply isn't safe to be on the road with him because it's so blinding. All that to say I just have a suggestion - please be sure your are aimed well. Sorry to take this off topic, but I just thought it was worth mentioning.

 

[n8in8or]

LED lights are nice for the driver, but SUCK for the oncoming traffic if not aimed properly. I pass about three to four people every day on the way to work. All have LED lights but one of them in a piece of ford has them aimed right at oncoming traffic's windshield. They're awful. His dim and bright is nearly the same. When it's raining or foggy, I usually coast when I see him coming because it simply isn't safe to be on the road with him because it's so blinding. All that to say I just have a suggestion - please be sure your are aimed well. Sorry to take this off topic, but I just thought it was worth mentioning.

Yup, I totally understand the importance of proper aiming. I was originally going to run some 9011 and 9012 Philips halogen bulbs like I did in my dually, but I’ve been pleased with the Hikari LED bulbs in my Envoy, and I’m pretty sure a friend of mine is running them in his GMT400 with good success, so when they went on sale for 30% off, they weren’t much more than the halogens at that point, so I went with them.

 

[DieselAmateur]

Do you have to run resistors when using LEDs in the front headlights? The LED tail light kit I purchased several years ago came with them, and I've heard mixed things about whether you can directly swap in an LED for a halogen with regards to headlights. Looks great, thanks for always going the extra mile and sharing your homemade wiring diagrams for us amateurs

 

[J_dude]

This may get a little long winded, apologies in advance.

The main problem with running plug-and-play/drop-in LED bulbs in halogen housings actually has little to do with proper aiming (although that can be a contributing factor) but is mostly caused by the incompatibility of the light source with the reflector. Halogen reflectors are specifically engineered to direct light emitted by a very small, cylindrical-shaped filament, which is emitting light from all sides. As opposed to a bulky square LED chip, which emits light in only one primary direction. To mitigate this, the designers of these bulbs must place two (or more) LED chips back-to-back in an attempt to simulate the 360 degree pattern of the halogen filament. Unfortunately there is no way to accomplish this without the end result being much bigger than the halogen filament, which means the light source is no longer in the correct place in the reflector, which is what causes the light to be thrown around willy-nilly and into the eyes of oncoming traffic. Add to that also the fact that halogen reflectors are designed to allow a small amount of light above the low-beam cutoff (to light up street signs etc.) and when you put an LED bulb in the housing that is many times brighter than the original, that light above the cutoff is also substantially brighter.

Some of the more expensive LED replacements can sometimes work better than others, but I have yet to see any that actually work well. The other problem that occurs when the beam pattern is sloppy like that is you get a lot of foreground lighting on the road directly in front of your vehicle, which makes things seem a lot brighter but can actually hamper your night vision making it hard for you to see farther ahead.

Just some things I have learned over the years, if you want to really learn about lighting optics and such check out the HIDplanet forums.

 

[jrsavoie]

The glass lensed headlights in my truck didn't fit the greatest. But they throw good light