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A military rebuilt 6.5

Mr. Hipster said:
Regarding the port match, Mark 4 Big Block Chevies have standard oval and rectangular intake ports, the HP ports being much larger. Read up on a discussion recently where, just for the heck of it, a HP intake was dyno flogged with standard heads. The effect would be a serious mismatch, reversion and other silly stuff due to the larger manifold port size. The claimed result was that there were no problems and the performance exceeded expectations. Just sayin', not saying I'd do it.
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Hmmm that's interesting......and surprising.
 
I ended up today about where I wanted. The engine is pretty much put together so it's just some finishing touches. The ac compressor clutch and pulley were rusty so I cleaned it up and painted it while I was at it since it's right out there front and center. I started making the bracket to remote mount the FFM but still have an hour or so to go on that. At this point my main list is finish fuel system including mounting pressure gauge, finish cooling system assembly, make battery cables and fill fluids. Oh and of course put upper intake back on. Oh and the intake for the turbo. So a couple evenings after work should get it done. It's nice just taking my time, doing it right and not focusing on a day to get done. I noticed I had forgotten to install the oil feed hose after I had the alternator already installed, but since I wasn't rushing I just took everything back off and installed the hose. I need to relax more on builds, it makes it more enjoyable. :) Oh and with all the stuff cluttering up the engine, it makes me wonder why I obsessed over the paint so much!

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n8in8or said:
Yeah I get that, that's why I had left them alone in the past I just didn't remember them being so much smaller than the gasket so I just couldn't help myself :rolleyes:. Are your heads being worked on still? I'm excited to see what a pair of professionally worked on heads looks like!
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Not yet, he's been busy and I have to clear out some space at the shop for him to work on them, lol. Still have to post pics of the cut up head.
 
Funny! I was just going to post "where did that pretty engine go?" Thats the bad thing on these when your done you only get a glimpse of the valve covers. The rest of the view is intake, turbo.....
 
DieselMike1 said:
Do you have a slight bias toward red, Matt, HA,HA. You do have one of the nicest, cleanest looking engine and engine compartment.
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I second that. I don't know how he got it looking so clean. I think part of my problem is that ac line that runs over the top. Even so I've always marveled at his engine compartment.
 
Did some fun problem solving tonight. I made the bracket to remote mount the FFM on the ac compressor bracket and I plumbed a ball valve in my heater core supply. I'm pretty stoked about the remote FFM....if I ever get a leak it should be a LOT easier to see. Also it will be easier to service the filter so maybe I'll do it at regular intervals :oops: And the ball valve was just a fun thing to try so 1. the ac doesn't have to work as hard in the summer and 2. get rid of the dumb connector off the coolant crossover. I also had to extend the harnesses on the FFM 4 feet to make this work. Rewarding progress tonight! Tomorrow night is hooking up the fuel hoses & gauge and making new battery cables. Getting close!! :D
image.jpg image.jpg image.jpg image.jpg image.jpg image.jpg image.jpg image.jpg image.jpg
 
n8in8or said:
I second that. I don't know how he got it looking so clean. I think part of my problem is that ac line that runs over the top. Even so I've always marveled at his engine compartment.
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Man, you guys got to stop that, or I'm going to need a wheel barrow just to carry my head around in, at the rate its swelling up. :D Thanks Nate, and you have very clean looking engine! ;)

Matt
 
n8in8or said:
Did some fun problem solving tonight. I made the bracket to remote mount the FFM on the ac compressor bracket and I plumbed a ball valve in my heater core supply. I'm pretty stoked about the remote FFM....if I ever get a leak it should be a LOT easier to see. Also it will be easier to service the filter so maybe I'll do it at regular intervals :oops: And the ball valve was just a fun thing to try so 1. the ac doesn't have to work as hard in the summer and 2. get rid of the dumb connector off the coolant crossover. I also had to extend the harnesses on the FFM 4 feet to make this work. Rewarding progress tonight! Tomorrow night is hooking up the fuel hoses & gauge and making new battery cables. Getting close!! :D
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FANTASTIC work Nate. I've always loved to see the kind of work that results from a man that has a healthy love affair with his truck!! :)

Matt
 
n8in8or said:
Did some fun problem solving tonight. I made the bracket to remote mount the FFM on the ac compressor bracket and I plumbed a ball valve in my heater core supply. I'm pretty stoked about the remote FFM....if I ever get a leak it should be a LOT easier to see. Also it will be easier to service the filter so maybe I'll do it at regular intervals :oops: And the ball valve was just a fun thing to try so 1. the ac doesn't have to work as hard in the summer and 2. get rid of the dumb connector off the coolant crossover. I also had to extend the harnesses on the FFM 4 feet to make this work. Rewarding progress tonight! Tomorrow night is hooking up the fuel hoses & gauge and making new battery cables. Getting close!! :D
View attachment 44756 View attachment 44757 View attachment 44758 View attachment 44759 View attachment 44760 View attachment 44761 View attachment 44762 View attachment 44763 View attachment 44764
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Very clean looking remote FFM install. Mine is still just hanging there without the stud to mount it to.I'm excited to have it permanently mounted I'm just too busy to have the time. Its looking really good Nate.

I think we can all agree that Matt has the cleanest setup. No offense Nate.:) Even if I am a little biased towards red :D. I have plans, RED plans, haha anyway. Progress it looking great. Can't wait to see the fire up vids and a couple of runs. I must say I'm quite jealous. The only thing left on my rig that hasn't been replaced or rebuilt is the engine. I'm getting forumitis again.
 
Very nice work indeed, interesting use of the 2nd alternator bracket.

As the hot water shut off valve goes you already have restricted the water pump bypass it will behoove you to install a tee with hose going bypass return to passenger side of radiator so you still have some bypass of coolant until thermostats open remember you have a high capacity pump that water pump head pressure has to go somewhere.
 
SS FORCE said:
Very clean looking remote FFM install. Mine is still just hanging there without the stud to mount it to.I'm excited to have it permanently mounted I'm just too busy to have the time. Its looking really good Nate.

I think we can all agree that Matt has the cleanest setup. No offense Nate.:) Even if I am a little biased towards red :D. I have plans, RED plans, haha anyway. Progress it looking great. Can't wait to see the fire up vids and a couple of runs. I must say I'm quite jealous. The only thing left on my rig that hasn't been replaced or rebuilt is the engine. I'm getting forumitis again.
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Thanks SS. No offense at all! :) Forumitis??? I don't know that is....;)

Burning oil said:
I Like the ball valve. Did you put a tee in so you can monitor water pump PSI?
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Thanks Leroy. Hmmm, no I didn't think of that.

FellowTraveler said:
Very nice work indeed, interesting use of the 2nd alternator bracket.

As the hot water shut off valve goes you already have restricted the water pump bypass it will behoove you to install a tee with hose going bypass return to passenger side of radiator so you still have some bypass of coolant until thermostats open remember you have a high capacity pump that water pump head pressure has to go somewhere.
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Thanks FT. 2nd alternator bracket? Is that where one goes when the truck is equipped with one? I guess that would make sense...I wondered why they had such beefy bolts holding that hose support bracket.

Oooh, you're right, I didn't consider that the heater core is acting like a bypass until the thermostats open, isn't it? Hmmm, well maybe the valve will just be staying open. Or maybe I should remove that bypass restrictor now before I put water in the system? So worst case, what happens if the restrictor is in and the heater core is blocked off? It won't circulate as much before the thermostat opens and then it will cold shock the thermostats more so they'll close back off right away? It will be more drag on the accessory drive because the pressure from the pump can't escape as easily?
 
Yea, thats the dual generator/alternator bracket look at my posts and see my dual gen/alt setup.
Whatever you do don't run it like it is or you will get water pump cavitation
 
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