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A military rebuilt 6.5

Pyro gauge haha snort! If your ECT, more important, is under control 1550 EGT won't hurt anything but scorch the turbo blanket. Sustained, under a load towing a grade, no problems, no parts melted. 1600 pegs the gauge and maybe that extra 50 degrees is an issue. I was running uncoated 6.2 pistons with this reading. :hungover:

More advanced timing could make the difference in engine damage although we tried everything. Later we backed the temps down to sane levels. Point being different turbo lets the heat out of the engine and I have yet to see anyone melt their pistons out of a 6.5 due solely to EGT. I have tried and even ruined engine oil at one point.

ECT out of control will scuff pistons. Ring failure (blowby) and cracks is secondary damage on high ECT.

So don't give yourself heartburn over EGT or let that gauge hold you back.

*YMMV note my number of contributions to the carnage thread looking for and finding "limits".
 
WW, your numbers scare me!! :wtf::woot::wideyed:

I love and appreciate your experiences! I wish I could explore limits as fearlessly as you. Seeing 1100 on the gauge starts to make my butt clinch!

In about a month, I'll be towing our travel trailer for the first time...a 6000 pound, 26 footer.....not a terrible load, but the only real load this thing will have had. We're only going an hour from home and the roads are easy, just a few stops and starts. I won't have the intercooler on by then so I'll be watching EGT and ECT closely. I'll be taking the second computer along with me that has the safer tune for just in case. My main concern right now is getting the 14 bolt in and broken in....the 10 bolt has been making noise since I bought the truck so I don't have much confidence in it.
 
1100 is just getting warmed up for me. 1350 is what I generally ran and held all day long 550 miles at a time towing the grades here. Only my de-fueled 6.2 DB2 stays at or below 1100. That's just a limit of the IP with the fuel screw pegged. I do finally have a real 6.5 .31 plunger pump to look at and drop in now. :cigar:
 
I think it's a little odd when you see articles like that and they talk about the intake and how it works well bc it swirls the air and helps mix the oxygen with the fuel..... Buuuuuut, the fuel isn't injected into the intake..... So turbulence in the intake is just turbulence in the intake. All the swirling and fuel mixing is done after the valve. No need for intake turbulence. I've seen this even on articles talking about other diesels too. Seems to me the "leave the intake slightly rougher for fuel mixture" when porting should go out the window on anything that injects the fuel directly into the cylinder. Should be done the same as the exhaust port so air can get in and out as fast as possible with as little restriction as possible.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Exactly. swirl is the job of the precup design when fuel is injected and on fire. It's just leaving power on the table with gasoline engine thinking.
 
n8in8or said:
WW, your numbers scare me!! :wtf::woot::wideyed:

I love and appreciate your experiences! I wish I could explore limits as fearlessly as you. Seeing 1100 on the gauge starts to make my butt clinch!

In about a month, I'll be towing our travel trailer for the first time...a 6000 pound, 26 footer.....not a terrible load, but the only real load this thing will have had. We're only going an hour from home and the roads are easy, just a few stops and starts. I won't have the intercooler on by then so I'll be watching EGT and ECT closely. I'll be taking the second computer along with me that has the safer tune for just in case. My main concern right now is getting the 14 bolt in and broken in....the 10 bolt has been making noise since I bought the truck so I don't have much confidence in it.
Click to expand...

It's better to error on the side of caution because of the cost involved otherwise. However since you are using a larger turbine housing you will not suffer the same issues that would happen w/any GM/IHI turbo choking and raising IAT's and I'm curious as to what your ECT, IAT & EGT are at when at speed.

That 10 bolt while nice in light pickup anything heavier it will fail they always do I had a 96 Tahoe that ate the 10 bolts like crazy. The 10 bolt in my old C10 has all the best of everything even an Auburn and it's happy under the pickup bed.
 
Well unfortunately I haven't had the same experience with my oil that War Wagon has had with his. Mine gets pretty dark pretty quickly when I change it. I think I know what I did wrong though: when I file fit mine, I set them to the high end of the gap tolerance. I was thinking that since I was likely going to be running high EGTs that it made sense to run the gap larger so the ends of the rings didn't touch and then scuff the cylinder walls. And since it had the gapless second ring, I figured a larger gap wouldn't make much difference. I believe my thinking was flawed, but it is what it is now. Perhaps it's just taking longer for my rings to seat, not sure. The one time I checked my cylinder pressure readings, those looked ok, so I'm not worried about that, but I guess it could be better. We'll see how it pans out over time. I may end up getting a centrifuge like Leroy did to help clean the oil....we'll see.
 
Before I swapped a takeout engine into my truck, the oil would be sooty black in 500 miles. I didn't re-ring with total seal cause I hadn't heard of them in 2010(swap finished in 2013). With bypass filtering, the oil has some translucent left when looking at the dipstick. The sample was sent out at 3,888 miles and UOA recommend extending to 6k. The next sample that I send out, I will request a soot amount. Hopefully Blackstone has a baseline on the average amount of soot is in the oil like all the other tests. I guess my thought here is that some sort of oil cleaning is useful. I am also interested in how much soot Leroy collects in the centrifuge.
 
hookedup50 said:
Before I swapped a takeout engine into my truck, the oil would be sooty black in 500 miles. I didn't re-ring with total seal cause I hadn't heard of them in 2010(swap finished in 2013). With bypass filtering, the oil has some translucent left when looking at the dipstick. The sample was sent out at 3,888 miles and UOA recommend extending to 6k. The next sample that I send out, I will request a soot amount. Hopefully Blackstone has a baseline on the average amount of soot is in the oil like all the other tests. I guess my thought here is that some sort of oil cleaning is useful. I am also interested in how much soot Leroy collects in the centrifuge.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the info. I need to send oil samples out, I just haven't yet.

BTW, I see your truck has a face again! :)
 
I haven't had it apart for a while, and was hesitant to change my avatar, as I am superstitious. I know it wouldn't pass scientific muster, but I would like to see soot levels with different builds and components ect. We all have different driving style, towing, tunes, IP's but we might be able to use this as a guide. An IDI diesel is gonna make more soot than any soot remover can remove IMO. I would have gone the centrifuge route had I known about it, as well as Totalseal.
 
n8in8or said:
Well unfortunately I haven't had the same experience with my oil that War Wagon has had with his. Mine gets pretty dark pretty quickly when I change it. I think I know what I did wrong though: when I file fit mine, I set them to the high end of the gap tolerance. I was thinking that since I was likely going to be running high EGTs that it made sense to run the gap larger so the ends of the rings didn't touch and then scuff the cylinder walls. And since it had the gapless second ring, I figured a larger gap wouldn't make much difference. I believe my thinking was flawed, but it is what it is now. Perhaps it's just taking longer for my rings to seat, not sure. The one time I checked my cylinder pressure readings, those looked ok, so I'm not worried about that, but I guess it could be better. We'll see how it pans out over time. I may end up getting a centrifuge like Leroy did to help clean the oil....we'll see.
Click to expand...
I asked Leroy to post some images of the inside of the centrifuge to see how much soot was removed on his latest trip.
 
Busy busy working on ElectroMag fan clutch, but I'll get pics soon.

My oil is also black pretty quick, but its not a heavy sooty looking black it more like a gasser's oil. I did a check with one of my LubriChecks analyzers after about 4000 miles on this oil and it was only at 5 on the scale (0-10 scale). I'll also send in a sample for a lab to confirm whats what.
 
Burning oil said:
Busy busy working on ElectroMag fan clutch, but I'll get pics soon.

My oil is also black pretty quick, but its not a heavy sooty looking black it more like a gasser's oil. I did a check with one of my LubriChecks analyzers after about 4000 miles on this oil and it was only at 5 on the scale (0-10 scale). I'll also send in a sample for a lab to confirm whats what.
Click to expand...
We can wait for you Leroy don't fee pressured ok and images yet? He, he, he...........just joking here when you get to it will be fine..
 
FT here is a video. First impression I thought there was not much that was caught, but when I started cleaning I was shocked at how much it had caught. Not sure if thats a good thing? :) Actually its a good thing just weird that on a new motor there was that much, but then again maybe a brand new motor has more "stuff" in it from the manufacturing process?

 
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