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'95 Engine build

Thanks @n8in8or . What did you use for a battery tray? I see you said it was tight but didn't pick up on what was used.
I took the stock battery tray, cut the indented portions out of it and then welded a piece of steel to the bottom to make it whole again. I think it was 11 gauge steel. It was tight, but it worked. It probably should have been sunk into the inner fender just a touch to make sure the hood wouldn’t touch the battery at all.
 
I saw this also. Must sit pretty flat.
 
I have always despised the pressurized tank up on the firewall. I wonder if you could remove it and take a the OE battery tray and mount it there then swap out the radiator for one that has the cap on the tank. a great time to go with an all aluminum radiator. with this you can still use the OE location for the air filter or even have plenty of forward room to fab up a box that takes air from t he front making it easy to remove when needed.
 
It's close, about 3/8". But I use a regular 5/16" Craftsman on it. Good eye catching my second intake tube into the fender. 4" sewer pipe screwed to the inner fender. Nice place to cut a hole through if you want to. My theory is, the fewer turns air has to make to get in and out of the engine, the better. I don't have a photo from the top that I can find, and I can't get one right now, since everything is out on the floor while I figure out the path forward on the block.
 
@93detroit I bet that 4" pipe you added also helps push and hold the air box straight not allowing it to move. the one on my 95 sits somewhat cocked forward where the factory rubber elbow is starting to contact the battery post chewing into the rubber. I was thinking about getting a piece of strap metal and running from the far side of the box to the inner fender pulling it back some so the boot isn't making contact or wiggling around.
 
Here is what it looks like with the original filter housing. I think it's reasonable to see that it could be done. It's clean looking. The flow rate got my attention though.

Flat filter (46316) = 100 CFM per WIX
Large or small K47 filter (46441 or 46440) = 250 CFM per WIX
 

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If you want to use this style filter and would like to strengthen the sealing areas, I had the thought of taking some small aluminum angle from home depot and riveting it to the inside under far enough below the lip so the angle doesn't contact the filter when closed. this will help hold the housing flat when it's clamped into place making a better seal.
 
I also found the spectre (similar to K & N) filter that fits these housings. they don't list it under the application, but I managed to find it crossing a fram part number on spectre's site. using this type filter and adding an oiled thin foam over it should be good catching most everything and have good air flow
 
Relocating the battery under the hood isn't going to happen with the big fat fiberglass hood so I am considering top post battery.

Worst part is that the side post batteries in it now are under 3 years old

Anyone use a drop out battery tray under the bed?
 
How close contact is the post bolt in contact with the intake boot? I haven't done this yet but was wanting to go out to the pick a part yard and get a side post cap from one of the more modern cars. some of the more fancy ones have caps with to top surface is flat so it would stop the rubbing a jagged end of the bolt. that might help buy some time while you finalize the end game for the battery issue. use the current battery till you need to replace it, then go with top posts then.
 
having some clearance is better than mine. mine is in contact with the intake boot (factory flat panel style) look at the front of the steel battery tray where it's folded over to grab the battery. you should be able to bend that fold to open it up just a tad allowing that side of the battery to seat flush up into the front of the tray. that will give you a tiny bit more clearance and the bolt side hold down should still lock the battery in.
 
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