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93 6.5 help plz

Imo, leave the turbo alone for now. You are showing good oil pressure when the fuel cuts out so I would believe good signal from ops is present. TPS means nothing here because it is dying at idle.

You NEED clear line on return of ip to see if there is any air getting sucked into the fuel system. You also NEED a fuel pressure gauge (that also reads a vacuum) off a tee just before the ip inlet that you can read while driving, when it has the problem what is that pressure or vacuum reading.
After getting that reading when the problem occurs you need to read the pressure vacuum before the LP when the problem occurs.

Anything else you do at this point only going to muddy the water.
 
Thanks guys sorry took so long to reply it was air in system due to bad voltage to lift pump I currently don't have money to fix it properly but I did hillbilly rig it with pump off of a hd to a toggle switch to the battery works just fine for now

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Quick question is there an easy conversion from 2wd to 4wd on the 3500 or is a lot of modding involved as well as do I need to also replace rear gears in order to mach up front and rear axle with transfer case

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Low voltage or no voltage can not let air in the system. You may have a small air/fuel leak that the lift pump can overcome by increasing pressure.

Your injection pump should be able to run the truck and only lack a bit of power at upper half of rpm without a lift pump. If it cannot start or idle properly without it, you have: a restriction;weak pump;weak injectors; combination of some or all 3.

I've done a gasser 2wd to 4wd conversion with a friend. NEVER AGAIN. Not worth the time and money imo.
 
I believe it may be my injectors I have new one's but having a hard time pulling turbo off me and exhaust bolts Don't get along lol

So doing a conversion is prob bad idea then

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OK, I read this thread start to finish.

My thoughts:
It sounds like you might have crud in the tank that is blocking off the sock. If I understand you correctly, you blew it back, it ran great, and now its back to running like crap?

What brand of OPS is on it? If you dont have the $ to spend on Leroy's awesome relay kit, make sure to use the highest quality OPS money can buy, which at this point is the AC Delco. I would almost guess by your description wither the OPS or LP failed allready.

What brand is the LP? stock replacement, or did you have to slice and dice some lines? Also, I hope the wiring splice was done on the LP harness, and the chassis harness was left alone.

Give up on the swapping it to 4wd plan. :)

keep an eye open for a 5 speed 4wd, and depending on what kind of shape your current rig is, you could part it out to fix a nice 5 spd 4wd with a blown engine.
 
I forgot what brand the ops is and next year I'm getting a few things from Leroy diesel just gotta duct tape and wire tire it together till then and I didn't splice in to harness didn't know if it would cause more probs down the road so I unplugged ran my own wire with 15amp fuse strate to battery with toggle switch and nothing is on my fuel filter and the 4x4 idea not bad at all thanks very much sir

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From dealing with it myself I would look at the following:
Any silver strands of "paint" in the fuel filter? This is the tank lining coming off. It will clog the sock.
Bugs in fuel. That will clog the sock - long thread on it here, link.
Kinked hoses esp. behind the Fuel filter housing hidden by wiring harness.
Air leaks from pinholes in the fuel pickup assy. (Rust)
Vapor lock from "restrictions" (Clogged filter, sock. kinked or collapsed hose) in the fuel system. The IP's pump can boil diesel in the fuel line vapor locking the lift pump. :wideyed: Yeah, Diesel Vapor Lock...

Replace the OPS - this is why you needed the switch for the lift pump. Rock Auto is your friend for this. ACdelco is the best, but, I am too cheap and get to change it often. Lift pump relay mod also helps.

DO NOT PUT A SOCK BACK IN THE TANK!!! Use a Walbro with a built in screen or heated prefilter before the lift pump. Clogged socks are not fun to change and the aftermarket Communist Krap doesn't have the built in bypass valve. If the tank lining is coming off replace the tank as it will clog the pipe (fuel line) up. If funds are short remove the sock and get the Walbro later - lack of a screen will eventually trash the lift pump from scoring.
 
I'm still whating on money for 96 6.5 conversion kit to older 6.5 tech

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I would honestly leave your 96 as is with the electronic pump. I know i will get crap for this, but I honestly like and prefer the electronic pump over the mechanical, and we own both. I have a 93 K2500HD, and dad has a 92 and a 93 C3500HD.

The mech. may be simple, but IMO doesn't last as long, and the cold starts are not as good.

Definitely start a seperate thread for that rig, we don't mind extra threads around here. :)
 
I have a separate thred for that one and to be honest I'm done with all that electronics lol no offence but I prefer easy over not knowing what I'm doing at all because i have no idea of what's wrong and have spent to much trying to fix it so I'm doing top half rebuild adding bigger turbo better injectors and allot of stuff from Leroy diesel to help get the job done and besides when and if I have time I can run all types of bio diesel in my truck none in the 96 with out covering it

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I have run bio in both systems. Head my warnings about bugs in fuel linked above. Then you need a compatible lift pump like the Walbro, and Bio rated hoses. This includes avoiding the garbage push on German outside braided injector return lines that Bio eats and causes leaks. Use the small metal clamps on the injector return lines despite what lies you get told otherwise esp. with biodiesel use. I have had them blow off and spray fuel everywhere as well as just get soaked from slow leaks. Gates makes a nice 1/8" fuel line available at parts stores. The only luck I have is the truck not burning to the ground when this happens.

Meanwhile you can troubleshoot your system. A mech DB2 conversion adds all kinds of issues - so best to know if DB2 will solve the problem of bad IP, electronics: PMD or PMD cable bad, grounds, etc. Otherwise with fuel system issues the DB2 will do the same thing including stalling.

I agree the DS4 starts better period. However a DB2 with everything working will run without the fing fishbite till you run out of fuel. Tuning the DS4 is easier with chips/flash/ECM's. You adjust the DB2 every 6 months for idle speeds (2 of them) and oil the retard lever.
 
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