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635 Rebuild cont.

I have found that when one has to go to Lowes for any project, one can always plan on three trips for that one said project. Always. Never fails. And for me, it's a good thing Lowes is just 1.5 miles from door to door.
 
Didn't even attempt to start the work on the AirDog today.
Woke up with a splitting head ache.
There was a frozen pond under the truck with icecicle's ascending to the trucks frame.
12* with freezing fog meant the temps weren't coming up any time soon...they didn't. Whimp whimp whimp. I don't care.
Lots of college football on the TV...nuff said.
Maybe Monday afternoon as I went to Cabela's to get a space heater to put out there and attempt to raise the temps a bit.

Took inventory of stuff tonight and need to get more 1/4" fuel line. What I have isn't sufficient to make the distance without splicing. Not an option!
 
I don't know, Paul. There is something about laying on cold concrete that gives me the warm fuzzies. Or maybe when i have to it's never a fun moment and I tend to be more in an upset mood because everything is going wrong.:mad2: I would have chosen the same. Well all but the football thing. Hope it works out and things warm up enough for you to get it all going the way you want it to.:thumbsup:
 
You got concrete!?!

Yes I do and I'm very grateful for it. Its even got a nice coat of paint on it although you can't see for all the snow-melt-road-crud on it now.

I also removed all the inlet and outlet fittings from the pump Ian used for the bed mount set up. I can use the ones ordered from AirDog and, as it turns out, I don't need to make a run to the store for more fuel line. The kit I ordered from them had it. Glad I read directions now and again.
 
Yeah but...

Got the AirDogII ready last night waiting for the New Year to roll in.
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Good thing I ordered new fittings and hoses. The old fittings were pretty messy although the insides of the unit was clear of debris.
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Today I drained and dropped the tank, removed the Walbro and Filter set up that has served me so well these past couple of years, removed the tank to LP OEM line and routed the LP to FFM line. After a fitment check, the holes were drilled and the frame cleaned up and sprayed with rust preventer followed by that rubber liner stuff from 3M. I see in one picture that I got too much on there and it sagged a bit. Life.

Regardless, The pump is installed on the frame and, as is the norm, there were a couple of discoveries that will necessitate a trip back to EVCO House of Hose before the project is complete. No worries. I need a ½” barbed fitting so I can shorten the return hose which is about 3’ too long…they must have thought I had a crew cab. I need another fitting to step the 3/8” line from the tank up so it will fit ½” connector for fuel inlet. I have to go the powder coaters tomorrow and they are just down the road from EVCO so it isn’t like an extra trip. Just delays.
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Then there’s the electrical lines. I hate having to use that harness as it is just one more convolution of stuff under the hood...

Full work days ahead so it will all have to wait until Saturday for completion. Oh well.
 
I'd like to thank BigBearZach for posting his question about a FASS vs. AirDog lift pump swap. Good info exchanges from several memeber to include a new member jrocket01.
By the way Jrocket01 :welcome8: :welcome5: to TTS. I should have said something sooner. I'd like to take a ride in your Avitar Ride. I'll be in Pomona again in February for the NHRA season start, maybe a GTG?:cheers2:
Big thanks to you BigBearZach for letting me highjack your thread for my own project. Sure, good info for everyone, but I very much appreciated the allowance. (Sarcasm on) Nobody highjacks my threads (even me) so I should be more respectful... (Sarcasm off):ban:
I'll try to get my AirDog in and running this weekend and let you know if there's any drawbacks other than price...:eek:
While everything is apart, I'll cut the hole in the bed for the FS-2500 line project as the location sits right over the fuel filler tube. Hopefully that will be the only delay...not likely though.

I did get an acceptable solution to the 3/8" step up to 1/2" at the fuel sender. At the tank, EOM uses rubber lines to steel to allow for flexing so I'm using the female 3/8" barbed fitting from Leroy's kit off the Walbro at the sender with a 12" hose which is stepped up with a couple of fittings to 1/2. EVCO said they didn't have the fitting to do it all in one at the tank and this will work fine, even for my persnicketyness. I was a bit concerned about kinking the 1/2" hose in that tight confine anyway.
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I asked about a 3/8" to 1/2" double barbed fitting instead of a two piece deal and the guy at the counter said he didn't have one.(?) Funny, I bought one from the same store for the IP side of the set up Monday (its in the picture) Go figure.

In thinking it over, I'll use the single barb and make another one up for the tank side and use the two piece set up at the IP. Easier to work on later when the FFM gets moved or replaced. Regardless, I'll try another supplier for the next project to see how things compare. Overall though, EVCO has been good to deal with.

Speaking of suppliers, I've been Bosched! The HO injectors ordered are delayed by at least two more weeks. I may not be able to take this truck to Pomona afterall. #@$%^& that would be a good break-in trip too.
 
Well it fought me at almost every turn to include key on, but it’s in and the truck is running.

Arguments had and won.
1-Fuel Return line, three issues; Fuel Filler neck return line adapter mounted perfectly to prevent the re-assembly or attachment of the hose; running the line behind the pump itself was easy but getting it to line up and connect at the fitting…not-so much and then not damaging it when the fuel sloshing in the tank gave it a mind of its own was touch and go but no damage.
2-Covered the 3/8” to ½” up and down adaptions already. I went with the barrel connection with double hose clamps from the tank to the AirDog line and the threaded connection to bring it all back down to 3/8” up to the FFM up front.
3-Weather. Temperatures below 30 degrees makes working with the hoses a non-joy. I had them sitting in the window sunlight indoors as much as possible but if work took too long on the truck, like the fuel filler neck did, delays were automatic as there was no flex to work them over connections.
4-Electrical harness wasn’t too bad. The connections on the lines to the batter must be sized for attaching to the top post clamps as they weren’t going over the terminals themselves, top or side posts without adaption. I opted to go with the positive lead at the Under Hood Fuse Box AUX Terminal. Ground went to the bracket over the driver’s fender. Good continuity and with an M8 nut already welded on, it was easy and in reach. I used the Fuel Solenoid Fuse for the Key On power and simply coiled the line’s excess up at the firewall.

Primed the filters, hit the key and filled up a 5-liter jug in no time flat.

Inspected the system and no Fuel Leaks observed. Tested pressure at the T-Valve while idling and maxed the test gauge at 10+ so I doubt I’ll have any fuel issues under max acceleration with the new motor which was a concern Ted and I had discussed.

If I had to do it all over again, I’ve a plethora of techniques and druthers. Mostly, I’d rather not do it again. For a simpler and very effective set up, stick with the Walbros!

News on the motor...not only have I been Bosched, but, as it turns out, the new IP sent by Stanadyne wasn't the ULSD model so now we're re-waiting on that part; again! Shooting for 10 FEB, almost one year from "Hey, I'll buy the motor" and almost two years from, "What's that racket?"
 
"What's that racket?"

Wasn't that a Mafia Game Show from the 1950's?:hihi: Seriously, though, following this part on the lift pump install has been enlightening. So you're saying, all said and done for performance, installation ease and just general bang-for-the-buck, just stick with the Walbro kit Leroy sells, unless you get somebody else's hand-me-down cheap/free?
 
...Seriously, though, following this part on the lift pump install has been enlightening. So you're saying, all said and done for performance, installation ease and just general bang-for-the-buck, just stick with the Walbro kit Leroy sells, unless you get somebody else's hand-me-down cheap/free?

IMHO, the demands of my current motor, and probably the majority of us for that matter, would be satisfied by the Walbros. Their proven reliability and price points make them a better option over the OEM style replacements. My Walbro installation, though not without the need for some creativity, didn't require dropping the tank either and that's never fun.

As for my Walbro, it goes to 635 for his next project...running board fuel tanks.
 
You mentioned those before. Is he fabbing his own up out of aluminum, or adapting already manufactured ones? I've considered adding the large pick up tank into the stock location along the frame rail on my Suburban and routing the filler either into the rear wheel well, or Wye-ing it off the stock rear tank filler neck so I can stick the fuel nozzle down either one to fill as needed. Since I routinely stuffed 36 gallons into my '94 C2500, that would give me 78 gallons for max range. Plumbing/wiring with the stock sender on the p/u tank would mean I could use my fuel gauge with both tanks, and a DPDT switch would actuate an electric valve to select between tanks/senders. Part of the reason I'm following all these LP mod threads, might also go the route of just using an aux pump to pump out of the p/u tank into the rear tank, much easier to do.
 
Congrats Paul, it must be a relief.
Absolutely. Like OrionThade commented to me one day, "I enjoy working on my truck when its because I want too, not because I have too." This quickly turned from "Want" to "need" when it went into extra innings.

You mentioned those before. Is he fabbing his own up out of aluminum, or adapting already manufactured ones?

Here’s a cell phone shot of them. It's a little blurry but you can see that they barely show as modifications.
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From 635: “Running board fuel tanks made for ex-cab dually. They flair out to the width of the rear fenders. Bolts to 3 x 1.5 ¼” rails that bolt to the bottom of the frame rails. Tanks do not touch the cab. Long rubber insert goes between the rails and the tanks. Manufacturer Unknown, found on Craig’s List.”

He'll use dual Walbro's to draw them dry!
 
I wonder, how much do they hold each? Will they act as transfer tanks to refill the main tank, or draw directly into the fuel system to the IP? That could also be something to consider instead of using a pickup tank as a dual tank for me. Make them from .125" diamond tread aluminum for puncture resistance and strength, with integral splash guards (if my heliarc welding skills were up to leak-proof welds) to replace the factory running boards (I think Lund installed by the dealer) on the Suburban. I hate them, they don't project out far enough to actually be useful to step in or out, especially when rainy or snowy out they're slicker than fresh cow shit. Worse yet in this weather, the gap between the front fender flare and the running board allows all the road crap and slush to splash up onto the front of the running board and door and frozen right where you step out.:mad2: Design a set with an integral step for the front and rear doors that is actually useful and deep enough that they hold about 30+ gallons a side - Bazinga!:D with the stock rear 42 gallon tank, 100+ gallon fuel capacity for Lincoln to anywhere in the Lower 48 non-stop!:thumbsup:
 
These function as running/step boards with non-slip surfacing. Aluminum mud flaps will prevent the road and weather debris getting on the surface. Moving to AZ will help much with the snow issues. Capacity is estimated between 45 to 55 gallons. I'll let him chime in on everything else you've asked as soon as his computer gets back from 'hospital.'
 
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