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4x4 actuator upgrade

chrisk1500

chrisk1500

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As always - if it weren't for bad luck I wouldn't have any....

The old actuator on the rig decided to call it quits. I thought this would be a good time to 'upgrade' to the electric unit instead of the thermo unit.

I was going to take pics along the way for anyone else needing to do this mod, but a buddy of mine sent me this URL that gives some damn good pics of the install.

http://www.getdieselpower.com/misc_auto/actuator_upgrade/GM_TRUCK_4X4_ACTUATOR_UPGRADE.html




On edit - Search terms: 4x4, transfer case, shift lever, actuator, harness, brown wire splice, front cv joints, not engaging, front differential, electronic
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Ummm. I can't quite make out what the guy in the link above is trying to do. Can you enlighten me?

Thanks,

Rob :)
 
Installing the electric actuator on a truck designed for a thermo actuator...

Shorter engagement time....more reliable design...
 
It was 'holy hell' expensive - but I bought it at the dealership (wholesale pricing and it was STILL expensive).

Your best bet is to try rockauto or even ebay if you have time to wait for a good deal. I needed the 4x4 fixed ASAP - I don't have time for shipping during the holiday season...
 
You get '2 LO' by breaking the ground wire in the circuit IIRC....

The brown wire is a 12V supply wire....
 
I'm sorry to hear you had troubles, Chris.

I looked up the price of the electric actuator - it's very expensive for what it is.

Equally expensive, but wonder if it wouldn't be better to go with one of the "Posi-Lock 4x4 Positive Axle Engagement Systems". They sell them all over the web. From what I can see, it does the same thing and being mechanical, has no reliance on electricity or wiring, etc. Seems to me would be even MORE reliable?

-Rob :)
 
I just got in from installing this upgraded actuator....what a HUGE difference!

Nice to have 4x4 back....
 
10 mins....

Unscrew the old one, install the new one, plug in the harness and make a quick wire splice......done and done...
 
sounds like you got lucky, i replaced my actuator last winter, but the old one broke when i tried to take it out took a couple days to get the threaded area of the actuator out, had make a special tool to remove it.
 
OK, this sounds dumb, but what's the difference between how the electric actuator works and how the thermal actuator works?

Why would GM move to a thermal actuator? Is it cheaper? Or theoretically better?

-Rob :)
 
The thermal actuator came first, when you engage 4WD there is a soft piece of plastic, maybe even wax that has to heat up before the actuator engages. The electric version came out in 98 or so and engages immediately.

Myself, if I had that series of truck, I'd install a Posi-Lok and be done with it. Click here for the Posi-Lok.
 
83GMCK2500 said:
The thermal actuator came first, when you engage 4WD there is a soft piece of plastic, maybe even wax that has to heat up before the actuator engages. The electric version came out in 98 or so and engages immediately.

Myself, if I had that series of truck, I'd install a Posi-Lok and be done with it. Click here for the Posi-Lok.
Click to expand...

I tend to agree. Nothing electrical to fail. I note that Summit Racing has these for around $200.

-Rob :)
 
I have to admit, we've had quite a bit of snow up here in the Pacific NW recently, and I was out with the family in the 'burb. I had to engage 4x4 about 6-7 times the last few days to gain enough traction to get around. With 8 people in the car, it was a little slippery sometimes. It was GREAT to have the 'push-button' 4x4 system.

-Rob :)

P.S. Does this mean that since my 'burb is a '99 model that I already have an electric actuator? Thanks.
 
x2 for Posi-Lok

At Mammoth Mountain ice and snow had built up while we were skiing and a snow plow had boxed me in. It didn't help that the electrical (I believe mine was thermal) 4x4 actuator disengaged after I turned my truck off. I needed 4x4 badly, but couldn't engage it. STUCK! Not sure if this was b/c my crappy actuator was on its way out or what.. But the Posi-Lok system stays locked even when the ignition is off.

83GMCK2500 said:
The thermal actuator came first, when you engage 4WD there is a soft piece of plastic, maybe even wax that has to heat up before the actuator engages. The electric version came out in 98 or so and engages immediately.

Myself, if I had that series of truck, I'd install a Posi-Lok and be done with it. Click here for the Posi-Lok.
Click to expand...
 
chi2 said:
x2 for Posi-Lok

At Mammoth Mountain ice and snow had built up while we were skiing and a snow plow had boxed me in. It didn't help that the electrical (I believe mine was thermal) 4x4 actuator disengaged after I turned my truck off. I needed 4x4 badly, but couldn't engage it. STUCK! Not sure if this was b/c my crappy actuator was on its way out or what.. But the Posi-Lok system stays locked even when the ignition is off.
Click to expand...


X2 ! ! !

Same does mine. TLA went bad - I did not trust the newer system, cause too expensive and also a point to failure. Bought and installed the Posi-Lok System - Never had any 4WD again. If it is locked, IT STAYS LOACKED UNTIL YOU DISENGAGE IT !


http://www.4x4posi-lok.com/



Cu,
Sven
 
I put a posi-lok on my dads truck, I think I would go with a electric myself. The posi-lok works but the truck needs to be moving to engage it. There are some cheap parts on it like the little clamp to hold the cable. It was so cheap I bent the end of the cable so if the clamp did let go you could still put it in 4wd. After about 2 years it finaly let loose. The cheap rubber boot it comes with doesnt even last 1 year.
 
OK, so is there any detriment to keeping the front diff locked all the time? I know that you'll get the front tires fighting themselves if you crank it while it's in 4WD, but what about if the transfer case is in 2WD?
 
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