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4wd Actuator

But were you getting data on the transfer case, not just the switches? It looks like all data on those screens pertained to the switch positions.

Again, why when I bought my '98 LT K2500 6.5 Burb I made sure it had the mechanical transfer case with the lever on the floor, as even back in 2010 there were already the issues with the push button transfer cases you're having with yours.
I didn’t know. The guy in the videos from Avoca, NY seems to know how to fix them. I’m just going to go through wiring tests per the video, verifying the right voltage for each signal wire. Undoubtedly it’s signal issues which have corrupted the ABS too.
 
But were you getting data on the transfer case, not just the switches? It looks like all data on those screens pertained to the switch positions.

Again, why when I bought my '98 LT K2500 6.5 Burb I made sure it had the mechanical transfer case with the lever on the floor, as even back in 2010 there were already the issues with the push button transfer cases you're having with yours.
There are more screens.
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Yup I know South Main Auto, 20 minutes from where I live. Eric is a great dude.

Not sure if was already covered, or if it would even be part of the current issue, but is there any chance the selector switches/ underdash wiring could be bad? Hopefully it's just a bad sensor and the problem will go away when you install them.

I had a much simpler issue when my 4WD quit working- replaced the electric 4WD actuator first, which wasn't the issue. It was the 4WD selector switch on the transfer case that was bad and not sending the signal to the actuator.

Hope you can get this resolved soon, sure is a pain not having 4/AWD in winter
 
Yup I know South Main Auto, 20 minutes from where I live. Eric is a great dude.

Not sure if was already covered, or if it would even be part of the current issue, but is there any chance the selector switches/ underdash wiring could be bad? Hopefully it's just a bad sensor and the problem will go away when you install them.

I had a much simpler issue when my 4WD quit working- replaced the electric 4WD actuator first, which wasn't the issue. It was the 4WD selector switch on the transfer case that was bad and not sending the signal to the actuator.

Hope you can get this resolved soon, sure is a pain not having 4/AWD in winter
I have confirmed functioning 4Hi, but with the lights flash on the dash button.

I believe AWD is working, but with light flashing on dash button. Can’t confirm this on dry pavement as it is AWD.

4Lo is a no.

Got the speed sensors and installed the rear one; no change.

It’s likely a wiring issue. Probably not getting proper voltage to/from TCCM on the signal wires to the encoder motor. Need to start testing voltage on the wiring. I do not have a rat’s nest situation next to the engine compartment fuse box. Everything is pretty clean there. Lost last weekend to the flu. Bit colder this weekend, but will just have to nut up and do it.

That Eric guy at South Main Auto is a gem. They won’t take calls on their videos. Must have been deluged. They only deal with in person clients. I’ll just have to become as good as Eric on this.
 
Well went out an did more tests and concluded I need a new tester as the pins are too short on what I’ve got. No success at the plug to the encoder motor.

Got under the truck in the front with help pushing buttons above and nothing happening at the actuator. Pull the actuator and it is stuck in the 4WD lock position. Did some tests at the plug with a test light and I’ve got power there using the ground in the plug. It’s not switching off to the other leads that move the actuator.
 
Pulled the front differential actuator and performed this test:


Actuator is not working. Tested voltage at plug and I get the proper voltage (12.54) when commanded. This actuator is by Standard Motor Parts which has a 3-year warranty. We'll see.

Working on testing the rest of the electrical items. Electrical harness and grounds do not seem to be the problem.
 
Did you al
Pulled the front differential actuator and performed this test:


Actuator is not working. Tested voltage at plug and I get the proper voltage (12.54) when commanded. This actuator is by Standard Motor Parts which has a 3-year warranty. We'll see.

Working on testing the rest of the electrical items. Electrical harness and grounds do not seem to be the problem.
Did you also use a test light or other method to verify you're getting enough juice?

Proper voltage is not a tell all and has got me a couple times.


Maybe you could rig up a relay or a toggle switch to double verify the lack of power at the connection
 
Did you al

Did you also use a test light or other method to verify you're getting enough juice?

Proper voltage is not a tell all and has got me a couple times.


Maybe you could rig up a relay or a toggle switch to double verify the lack of power at the connection

Yes on test light and voltage meter. Battery tests at 12.54 at the terminals. Got the exact same while performing tests on the plug, including the center terminal plus upper left when 4Hi was commanded. Performed the video test on the actuator itself with leads that I made with insulated alligator clips connected directly to the battery.

I processed a warranty return the old one. Ordered a new one and will return the old one for the refund when the new one arrives.
 
Yes on test light and voltage meter.

Processed a warranty return with Rockauto. Ordered a new one and will return the old one for the refunde when the new one arrives.
Good luck with the return.

I hope ra has heard the complaints and your return goes smoothly.

I would have a hard time exchanging for another same thing.
In my experience. I go for a refund and something different.
I most often get the same thing with the same problem on an exchange.
 
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