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2000 CCLB 6.5 on craigslist

NVW said:
Can't remember who it was but ether wouldn't start their truck until they put some diesel or oil in the cylinders. They had dried out from sitting and the comp was poor from the dry cyl.
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I remember that one!

Good one Leo...:thumbsup:....Thats the kind of info only experience provides.
 
The only thing that KBB value will help you with is getting a loan for the vehicle, and perhaps getting coin from the insurance company if you have full coverage and wreck it.

KBB value isn't even CLOSE to the street value of these trucks.

Our little secret, don't tell the banks/ins companies.
 
buddy said:
And assume there may be multiple problems, such as PMD died, but ether killed all the glows. and going a bit further than making sure that all the ECM fuses all ohm out good on a meter or at least a test light, you could check there is actually power at the contacts with IGN on and fuse removed you can probe. Who can ever tell if a fuseable link broke or something.
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sorry buddy but im not sure that i completly understand your post. please explaine.
 
I assume you are leaving known good PMD in during all attempts to start it up. Just assume it is bad. Then also the glows are probably shot, so you might need the ether. Is the exhaust smoking at all when you are cranking? And there are no codes after cranking?

Take all the ECM and Fuel fuses out and test them with a multimeter set to ohms, checking the resistance across the blades. There should be like no resistance, like .1 ohms, if you see OL or 0F or something like that and no reading then the fuse is no good. Sometimes they break where you can see it.

If all the fuses check out good, leave them all out, and turn IGN to ON, and go make sure there is actually power going to each of those fuses. With the multimeter set to Voltage put one lead to ground and probe into the fuse panel and make sure there is 12V sitting on one side of each of those fuse positions.
 
ok thanks i cheked the continuity of all the fuses all ready will have to check the power.

yes i am using a known good pmd.

there is white smoke while cranking. noticed it comming from an exhaust leak at the driverside crossover conection

if the cyl need alittle oil to help seal the compresion that would exlpain the puffs of whit smoke that are coming out of the oil fill while cranking.

for a minuet i was wondering why there isnt any oil coming from the oil pump to help seal the compression but it probly doesnt turn fast enough or long enough to pump the oil all over the place jst from cranking (the batts werent very good it never turned over very fast)
 
jrsavoie said:
You can test the fuses sometimes without removing them.
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Yes, with a test light or volt meter you can see if there is voltage to either side of the fuse. That still won't guarantee there is a connection on the load side.
 
NVW said:
Yes, with a test light or volt meter you can see if there is voltage to either side of the fuse. That still won't guarantee there is a connection on the load side.
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I find it easier to test them while they are being held in place. If you find a bad one you can yank it and pitch it. Once you know the fuses are good you can yank them, clean them & reinstall. It's just less fumbling around for my fat old fingers.
I do the same with glow plugs. I test them when ever I'm in the mood and yank them for a visual inspection about every 2 years. I reinstall them with anti-seez. I've never had one stick or swell. It's worked for me so far. So I keep doing it.
 
chevyCowboy said:
i should probley mention that while cranking it smells strongly of raw diesel.
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Another reason to not condem the ip. It's getting fuel but no heat to ignite. Could be flooded to some extent from extended slow cranking.
 
bk95td said:
Another reason to not condem the ip. It's getting fuel but no heat to ignite. Could be flooded to some extent from extended slow cranking.
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I also wonder about oiling the rings somehow. That is a sweet looking rig, salvageable for sure!
 
Bring a heatgun or hairdryer and warm the piss outta the top of the intake maybe help if glows are junko............

Plug it in if you can.........
 
Anything with lube is better than ether. I like Marvel better than WD40. You could mist it with some 10 weight.
Did you check the glow plugs? I thought you had done that. If not your doing a lot of rehashing things with no further info.
On an engine that has been sitting a while I like to oil the cylinders - gas or diesel - before I crank it if possible. On gas I put the oil in and leave the spark plug out.
Personally I would oil the cylinders, check the glow plugs and compression & go from there.
If you mist with Marvel or something similar that will help lube the cylinders. You can even use plain old diesel.
 
how should i mist the marvel or diesel in?

going to go and try it again today. the owner has it pluged in so hopefully that will help some. i would like to try and pull the gp but untill its mine i dont wanna risk breaking them!
 
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