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2000 CCLB 6.5 on craigslist

chevyCowboy said:
how should i mist the marvel or diesel in?

going to go and try it again today. the owner has it pluged in so hopefully that will help some. i would like to try and pull the gp but untill its mine i dont wanna risk breaking them!
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Seems like the owner is a good guy and working with you.

Have you tested the glow plgs for continuity? You can do that without removing them. I would only try to remove them if they test bad.
Until you get the vehicle home and can deal with a stuck glow plug if need be. You may want to give them all a squirt of Sea Foam or PB Blaster to help loosen them up for the future removal.
There is another post here about testing them. As somebody suggested you can use a test light hooked to the positive battery post. With the wire to the glow plug unhooked, touch the pointy end to the spade on the glow plug. The light will come on if the glow plug & yesyer arte both good. I've gotten in the habit of testing my testers before using them.
You can also check each glow plug for ohms of resistance/continuity/the horn on your tester. With the glow plug unhooked put one test lead to the glow plug spade and the other to ground. The tester should make noise or show 0.02 ohms of resistance or less.That .02 number may be slightly higher.

For misting I use a Squirt bottle like a WD40 or anything similar. I take something loose to access the intake. Have somebody squirt while the engine is turning. Do not try to start if the engine isn't turning fast enough. You'd be just wasting your time.
I have also used one of those air can oilers that you hook up to your air hose. If you have air available. That is the best method but rarely used.
 
It sounds like you have already made the purchase in your mind, and It sounds like a nice project , like someone had mentioned earlier if the replacement parts and purchase price add up than go for it. At lease when your done everything you add will be new and you'll have a wealth of knowledge something that can only be taught by actually doing it. There is no greater pride in owning something that you build or repair yourself. Here's what you do offer him 1500 and if he takes it than tow it home.Use the money you save to have it towed home the right way so you do not get hurt winching this beast up onto a trailer and by no means do you unhook the trailer that is the only thing keeping the front down. Yes before someone says something I know it can be done with blocks under rear frame of trailer an blocking wheels. But this is not something someone does for the first time with something this heavy. And I know for a fact that these beasts are heavy. I wouldn't want to see you end up on a youtube .SO best of luck to you on your purchase. ( new projects are always exciting )
 
X2
I would probably offer less because I have a bias against 2 wheel drives. I would definately do a compression test before I gave over $800 for the truck. If the engine is shot it will cost you.

badhabits said:
It sounds like you have already made the purchase in your mind, and It sounds like a nice project , like someone had mentioned earlier if the replacement parts and purchase price add up than go for it. At lease when your done everything you add will be new and you'll have a wealth of knowledge something that can only be taught by actually doing it. There is no greater pride in owning something that you build or repair yourself. Here's what you do offer him 1500 and if he takes it than tow it home.Use the money you save to have it towed home the right way so you do not get hurt winching this beast up onto a trailer and by no means do you unhook the trailer that is the only thing keeping the front down. Yes before someone says something I know it can be done with blocks under rear frame of trailer an blocking wheels. But this is not something someone does for the first time with something this heavy. And I know for a fact that these beasts are heavy. I wouldn't want to see you end up on a youtube .SO best of luck to you on your purchase. ( new projects are always exciting )
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ak diesel driver said:
got a pic? I've never seen one of those.
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I'm sure you've seen one. I'm just gave a very poor description.
There are several styles. Even a paint gun will work.
One of the sprayers I have is similar to this: only it has a place to put a tire chuck in the handle for air. I also have a rechargeable quart can. You charge the can and spray away til you run out of air or whatever you are spraying.

http://cgi.ebay.com/AUTO-AIR-OIL-MI...emQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item3a5924d0f1

You could even use a hand pump sprayer from the garden department or Farm store.
We've used them to spray concrete sealer and form oil. That might be as handy as anything. You wouldn't have to get to close.
 
Yea I hear you on the 800 but 1500 on a 4x4 crew cab dually thats not a stripped down work truck is not that bad, although a grand would be better. Of cause its always a tough purchase when they don't run . theres no way to check trans, rears ,4 wheel drive, a/c, etc. And the mileage is right, providing it did not stop working a few years ago. But thats why they are called projects and if its the vehicle you want than sometimes you have to gamble. It looks like theres a company name on the door so it's possible that the seller is being honest in what he knows . By this I mean he probably would not want the bad reputation of stiffing someone on the sale. Would be bad for buisness.But at the very lease you should be able to part it out to get most of your money back if not all of it.
 
well i tried the wd40 and nothing so i steeped up to starting fluid it would chug and fire a little and it only sounded like it wantd to fire on a few cylinders and it makes a really odd sound when it does fire but it would never run. i think it is not getting fuel or something. it almost sounds like it had a knock or a hole in a cylinder.
 
If youre working with two weak batts it is never going to start, even with jumper cables on a running truck. Is it cranking strong? Or do you have a load tester? Maybe try it with no serpentine belt.

And this time the block heater was plugged in a while?

It sounds like its not getting fuel, but you said there is smoke out the exhaust while its cranking. If theres smoke, there must be something making it, and you say it smells like diesel. Are you sure its not leaking diesel from the filter area? As if filter was not put in correctly, with it keyed and seated correctly (it only goes on one way). Or is deisel smell coming from specific area? Air getting in there could definately cause this. Is the drain or petcock still open?

Otherwise you dont have comprssion, like broken valve.
 
im leaning toward something broken some where. and the block heater didnt seem to work he had it pluged in all morning and i put my hand on the block near the heater and it wasnt warm at all. the fuel smell is from the exhaust there is a leak in the d side mainfold to d pipe. while i was cranking it i did see white smoke out the tail pipe

i charged both my batteries and used them it turnd fast at first but it just never seemed to turn fast enough. i think there is something internally wrong with this motor any one got one they wana sell. im thinking a running 6.5 from boyce for 900 +shipping sounds like a good deal as long as this IP aint shot
 
he is pretty firm on the price he feels that he could sell the flat bed and the tranny and other parts and make the 2000. so i dont think he will take any less
 
Show him 15 Benjamins and see what he says.... If you can find and drop an engine in this for little money its a sweet ride.... You could put 4 grand into it and still sell it for 6 no problem. Worst case scenario.
 
chevyCowboy said:
well i tried the wd40 and nothing so i steeped up to starting fluid it would chug and fire a little and it only sounded like it wantd to fire on a few cylinders and it makes a really odd sound when it does fire but it would never run. i think it is not getting fuel or something. it almost sounds like it had a knock or a hole in a cylinder.
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You should look at my thread for my busted engine. I had lots of blow by.

Truck is worth $2000.00. It is a black hole for parts...):h

It is $1500 for a 6.5 from Boyce, if they have them, and $950 for a 6.2. Plus shipping and plus changing 24 volt stuff to 12 V. Glow plugs, IP parts, sensors, etc.
 
Exhaust smells like fuel, but you dont have the heat to combust it.

Could still be RPMs arent high enough with non functional Glows or block heater. They start very stubborn with no glows or block heater. If there is not enough RPM it wont start and it will throw lots of white smoke and stink. This happened to me when all my glows stopped working, and in 70 degree weather it would still take 10 seconds of cranking to get it to fire with two healthy batts. Check the glows on the drivers side, they should be less than one ohm. You could change those out and see if it gets closer to starting. Thats $40, or maybe some people have some used ones that are still functional. I think I have 4 good ones from when I changed them 2 years ago. Take off the serpentine belt and bring two charged batts and have your vehicle on it to jump it too. Use a hair dryer or heat gun blowing in to the intake too.

Or if it needs a several hundred dollar head repair, or few thousand dollar engine swap its still a great truck.
 
a friend has some running 6.5s that he will sell that i can drop in. i have one sitting in the garage but the starter bolt hole is broke out.
 
buddy said:
Exhaust smells like fuel, but you dont have the heat to combust it.

Could still be RPMs arent high enough with non functional Glows or block heater. They start very stubborn with no glows or block heater. If there is not enough RPM it wont start and it will throw lots of white smoke and stink. This happened to me when all my glows stopped working.

Or if it needs a several hundred dollar head repair, or few thousand dollar engine swap its still a great truck.
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i really think it has a hole in a piston or a cracked head or broken valve
 
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