1994 K3500 extended cab dually

[n8in8or]

Do you think that paint would work on our cast iron exhaust manifolds? I know you live in the salt belt too and I see you have exhaust wrap on your custom manifolds. Is there a way to treat the iron/ steel and use wrap so whatever salt gets in doesn't rust from the inside out?

I don't see why this paint wouldn't work on cast iron manifolds - it's a high heat paint.

The header wrap is designed to be used with their silicone paint. You paint the pipe with the silicone paint, wrap the pipe and then spray the outside of the wrap with the silicone paint to seal it. Unfortunately, I'm not sure it's possible to spray enough paint on the wrap to truly seal it, so you will still get moisture and salt between the wrap and the pipe.....which honestly is probably inevitable anyway. A coating that is adhered to the pipe that can also insulate it is going to be the best route to keep the heat in the pipe and also prevent corrosion. I had to re-wrap the crossover pipe because the wrap got damaged and I was actually surprised at how little rust was on the pipe under the wrap. I don't remember how many years (winters) that pipe had been on the Tahoe with wrap on it....maybe 2? So definitely not a long-term test, but it was something. Also I do a lot of short drives because I live close to work, so the pipe doesn't have time to get hot and evaporate moisture, so my case definitely isn't ideal. As far as the header goes, I haven't unwrapped that so I don't know how that has faired so far.

FYI, the KBS paint is also a silicone paint like the DEI paint, so it should hold up pretty well...… I've been very happy with how well the DEI silicone paint holds up.

 

[n8in8or]

Fiddled around with the truck a little during my lunch. I realized that with the hood on and the inner fenders removed I had an excellent opportunity to check hood clearance for the intercooler. Looks good. I don’t know how I got anything done before cell phones.....it’s so handy having a camera on me basically all the time.

 

[Duvall]

I know its functional, but that cap makes my eyes hurt.

Is that the front bumper off the Hoe?

Are you going to put some insulation in the bottom side of the hood? Looks like you have plenty of clearance for it.

 

[n8in8or]

I know its functional, but that cap makes my eyes hurt.

Is that the front bumper off the Hoe?

Are you going to put some insulation in the bottom side of the hood? Looks like you have plenty of clearance for it.

What cap are you talking about?

Yep, the one from the Hoe. Since both trucks are black and I intended to run the WTA intercooler, I figured I may as well use it now. I’ll decide what to do to the Hoe when the time comes. Maybe ATA, maybe another WTA of another sort....don’t know yet.

Yeah, now that I see how much clearance I have, I’m thinking about adding some insulation under there.

 

[Duvall]

The bed cap.
Topper?

I don't know what they are called in Michigan.

 

[n8in8or]

Well, as great as last night was for progress, tonight wasn’t as good, but still not terrible I suppose.

During lunch and after work I rerouted the 5/8” heater hose and the hose to the overflow container to make more room for the intake. I used more of those Gates heat shrink hose clamps to keep the installation clean. I also took the heater hose filter off and cleaned it out.



After that I went to move the truck into the barn to install the exhaust. The darn thing wouldn’t start!! It would try to light off at first and then nothing, no matter how long I cranked. I had fuel pressure and it was cranking over plenty fast. I thought maybe it was the short duration the glow plug controller was running, so I just kept trying. Then I got out to look into jumping the terminals in the controller to get a longer burn of the plugs. When I took the boots off the lugs I noticed the nuts were loose, D’OH!! So I tightened the nuts. Of course one of the studs started spinning so I took the nut and wires off so I could tighten the stud. Well it ended up just spinning. Neat. So now the controller wasn’t working at all. Well, luckily I added that start button under the hood so I could crank it and jump the glow plug controller terminals. I started cranking and noticed that the intake hose between the intercooler and the lower intake was collapsing under suction!! Ohhhhhhhhhhh......then I noticed it - I forgot to remove the cap over the intake of the turbo!! I have been putting that on when the engine isn’t running to keep bugs and what-not from getting in there before I get the air cleaner installed. DUMB! So i popped that off and voila, it runs! Again, DUMB!

Once I got it pulled in the barn I got to the task of installing the exhaust. All done.

 

[n8in8or]

The bed cap.
Topper?

I don't know what they are called in Michigan.

Oh THAT cap. I thought you were talking about something under the hood. I don’t know why, but I kinda like it for some reason. I think it’s how the truck gets taller and wider as you get further back. I’ll take it off and see how I like it, but for now it will stay on for a while. Your eyes be damned!!

 

[Duvall]

I will say that you are a humble man, my friend. To include the fact that you forgot something to prevent your truck from starting. Not one person here reading has not made such a simple goof. There is nothing Dumb about any of it. It happens. Your skills around your truck have far impressed many of us here.

That appears to be the Diamond Eye exhaust? Looks about the same as mine. I noticed that the outlet seems to be a bit short of clearing the bed side. Since I got to drive my truck with the bed on it the other day I noticed how much more I could hear the exhaust. Almost a little too much. I am considering extending the tip another 6 inches to get the noise out from under the bed.

I would assume you haven't drove it down the road yet to notice the exhaust tone. I can tell you that she growls quiet a bit in the cabin under load. I was good with how quiet my exhaust was until I had the bed on.

 

[n8in8or]

I will say that you are a humble man, my friend. To include the fact that you forgot something to prevent your truck from starting. Not one person here reading has not made such a simple goof. There is nothing Dumb about any of it. It happens. Your skills around your truck have far impressed many of us here.

That appears to be the Diamond Eye exhaust? Looks about the same as mine. I noticed that the outlet seems to be a bit short of clearing the bed side. Since I got to drive my truck with the bed on it the other day I noticed how much more I could hear the exhaust. Almost a little too much. I am considering extending the tip another 6 inches to get the noise out from under the bed.

I would assume you haven't drove it down the road yet to notice the exhaust tone. I can tell you that she growls quiet a bit in the cabin under load. I was good with how quiet my exhaust was until I had the bed on.

It’s the Diamond Eye from the Hoe, modified to fit this truck. It also has the 4” x 30” FTE resonator/muffler on it just after the downpipe. The R/M really kept the drone down on the Hoe. Good info about the length of the tip and the sound inside. I was thinking I may add a tip to it. I guess I’ll see how it sounds. Maybe that cap will keep the noise out of the cab more and I’ll be swell!!

 

[ak diesel driver]

Echo chamber LoL

 

[FellowTraveler]

It won't last really long, the only true way would be make everything out of 409/304, 316 stainless steel being used in the marine world most.... all the exhaust coatings have gone through a salt spray test, but none will endure it forever ...

Now copper would not ever corrode, could a set of mannies be made with it ??

I seem to remember Spin Tech out in Cali makes enconal manifolds for those with really really deep pockets...

 

[FellowTraveler]

Well, as great as last night was for progress, tonight wasn’t as good, but still not terrible I suppose.

During lunch and after work I rerouted the 5/8” heater hose and the hose to the overflow container to make more room for the intake. I used more of those Gates heat shrink hose clamps to keep the installation clean. I also took the heater hose filter off and cleaned it out.

View attachment 64822View attachment 64828

After that I went to move the truck into the barn to install the exhaust. The darn thing wouldn’t start!! It would try to light off at first and then nothing, no matter how long I cranked. I had fuel pressure and it was cranking over plenty fast. I thought maybe it was the short duration the glow plug controller was running, so I just kept trying. Then I got out to look into jumping the terminals in the controller to get a longer burn of the plugs. When I took the boots off the lugs I noticed the nuts were loose, D’OH!! So I tightened the nuts. Of course one of the studs started spinning so I took the nut and wires off so I could tighten the stud. Well it ended up just spinning. Neat. So now the controller wasn’t working at all. Well, luckily I added that start button under the hood so I could crank it and jump the glow plug controller terminals. I started cranking and noticed that the intake hose between the intercooler and the lower intake was collapsing under suction!! Ohhhhhhhhhhh......then I noticed it - I forgot to remove the cap over the intake of the turbo!! I have been putting that on when the engine isn’t running to keep bugs and what-not from getting in there before I get the air cleaner installed. DUMB! So i popped that off and voila, it runs! Again, DUMB!

Once I got it pulled in the barn I got to the task of installing the exhaust. All done.

View attachment 64823View attachment 64824View attachment 64825View attachment 64826View attachment 64827

I can't tell you how many times I have forgotten that compressor intake cap and wondered WTF was wrong...that's Murphy breaking our ____s.

 

[MrMarty51]

At least by forgetting that cap was over the turbo, You found another issue with the controller.
Yeah, as embarrasing as it is, I too will tell about my mess ups.

 

[n8in8or]

I got a neat tool yesterday and tried it out......

Once the truck was out of the barn and I got in and out of the driver’s door a few times, it became very apparent that the door was out of alignment. I didn’t really want to do the 2x4 trick with the fresh sheet metal so I went looking for an alignment tool. This one was a good price and had good reviews so I bought it.

Steck Manufacturing 21845 E-Z Store Door Alignment Bar https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000JFL8S...abc_0BFSVXPPG9S5WE3WAAM8?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

It worked great! FYI, the before and after pics of the door were taken with the door unlatched.



Then I spent the rest of the night prepping the wheels for paint.

 

[FellowTraveler]

I got a neat tool yesterday and tried it out......

Once the truck was out of the barn and I got in and out of the driver’s door a few times, it became very apparent that the door was out of alignment. I didn’t really want to do the 2x4 trick with the fresh sheet metal so I went looking for an alignment tool. This one was a good price and had good reviews so I bought it.

Steck Manufacturing 21845 E-Z Store Door Alignment Bar https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000JFL8S...abc_0BFSVXPPG9S5WE3WAAM8?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

It worked great! FYI, the before and after pics of the door were taken with the door unlatched.

View attachment 64832View attachment 64833View attachment 64834View attachment 64836View attachment 64835

Then I spent the rest of the night prepping the wheels for paint.

I have the one with the handle attached....

 

[n8in8or]

I have the one with the handle attached....

Oh, I didn't see a version with a handle attached, but I do like the compactness of this one, it's easy to put in a toolbox drawer.

 

[FellowTraveler]

Oh, I didn't see a version with a handle attached, but I do like the compactness of this one, it's easy to put in a toolbox drawer.

You need a BIG A__ SNAP ON box for it to fit so I just hang it off the shelving...
The doors sag from putting weight on them when getting in/out of vehicle...I did install a pull handle on the roof of d/s on Burb it helps getting in/out w/o leaning on the door.

 

[n8in8or]

I got the bumper installed the rest of the way. I was able to use the 94’s brackets, I just had to loosen them, get all the bolts started and then cinch them down. The bumper itself needs a little tweaking still because I had it tweaked to fit the Hoe and its slightly messed up front end sheet metal, but it’s good enough for now - I have an alignment appointment Monday I have to get ready to drive to!! I also got the grill from the Hoe installed. It almost has a complete face!



I also got the wheels painted tonight. I just painted them with Rustoleum, because I just needed some paint on them. It will also be a good experiment to see how well it holds up. Eventually I’d like to blast them and get them powdercoated at work like I did with the Ford, but with Covid and cost saving measures in place, I didn’t figure now was the right time to ask.

 

[Duvall]

I always thought sagging doors was caused by worn out hinge bushings? I know mine have a little wear in them and I was planning to replace them.

I used Rustoleum on an open car trailer and its still holding up fairly well. Its far from perfect, but it still looks ok. I think it was 15 years ago. Is that a spare set of wheels you have on hand? GMT400 Warehouse, Kalamazoo branch.

 

[Will L.]

I always thought sagging doors was caused by worn out hinge bushings? I know mine have a little wear in them and I was planning to replace them.

I used Rustoleum on an open car trailer and its still holding up fairly well. Its far from perfect, but it still looks ok. I think it was 15 years ago. Is that a spare set of wheels you have on hand? GMT400 Warehouse, Kalamazoo branch.

Both bushings and weight of folks hanging on them