1969 IH 1300D 4X4 - Pump Truck

[n8in8or]

I bought a roll of it off of Amazon - it was a kit that was a roll and a bunch of steel (not stainless steel) fittings. I'm going to be doing a new rear line on my K3500 and then later do the rest of the lines. My brother has used the stuff and really likes it. He's had it on his Jeep for 4 years now I think and he said the lines still look like new - which is quite a feat for something that is daily driven in Michigan, including in the winter.

It's important to note that copper tubing is NOT a suitable material for brake lines, but this is an alloy of copper and nickel that has a suitable burst strength to use in hydraulic brake applications.

 

[DieselSlug]

I bought a roll of it off of Amazon - it was a kit that was a roll and a bunch of steel (not stainless steel) fittings. I'm going to be doing a new rear line on my K3500 and then later do the rest of the lines. My brother has used the stuff and really likes it. He's had it on his Jeep for 4 years now I think and he said the lines still look like new - which is quite a feat for something that is daily driven in Michigan, including in the winter.

It's important to note that copper tubing is NOT a suitable material for brake lines, but this is an alloy of copper and nickel that has a suitable burst strength to use in hydraulic brake applications.

Interesting, learn something new everyday!

Thank you for clarifying.

 

[ak diesel driver]

IIRC I can get premade lengths at my local carquest (Advance Auto).

 

[Will L.]

On the tool- and remember i was a Mac Tools guy for a few years- buy the rigid.

Check with a local hydraulics shop for your rubber hoses. Kost hydraulic shops make custom hoses of all types, shapes, sizes all day long. Prices hard to beat and top quality for the money of your choice. There is a clear covered stainless steel braided DOT RATED hose that will out live us. Just bring in your old one to match length and fittings, make a note if you want it slightly longer or shorter for whatever reason. I have a set of 4 to go on my Hummer if you want to see what they look like. Hmmwv and Hummer factory doesn’t use rubber hose, they have a coil of metal line to the calipers which are inboard next to the pumpkin. The only time they move is vibration and when changing brake pads- and many guys damage them replacing brake pads. Dave of Bluehummer sells them as a kit, but I bought mine before knowing he sold them. Obviously length and fittings not right for your application I’d guess.

 

[DieselSlug]

On the tool- and remember i was a Mac Tools guy for a few years- buy the rigid.

Check with a local hydraulics shop for your rubber hoses. Kost hydraulic shops make custom hoses of all types, shapes, sizes all day long. Prices hard to beat and top quality for the money of your choice. There is a clear covered stainless steel braided DOT RATED hose that will out live us. Just bring in your old one to match length and fittings, make a note if you want it slightly longer or shorter for whatever reason. I have a set of 4 to go on my Hummer if you want to see what they look like. Hmmwv and Hummer factory doesn’t use rubber hose, they have a coil of metal line to the calipers which are inboard next to the pumpkin. The only time they move is vibration and when changing brake pads- and many guys damage them replacing brake pads. Dave of Bluehummer sells them as a kit, but I bought mine before knowing he sold them. Obviously length and fittings not right for your application I’d guess.

Prolly a good idea to go the braided!

 

[DieselSlug]

Did some work on Sunday.

I picked up some media for sand blasting and went to town on the knuckles. Fired up the Sullair diesel compressor and walked back to grab the knuckles letting it warm up. Hear a the sound of a metal tin can hit the ground and a large release of air. Looks like the air-water separator wasn't threaded in but 2 maybe 3 threads. This thing hasn't been used in 5-10 years, so I was bound for issues resulting in previous employees mis-use:

--------------------------------------------------

Upon disassembly I found the rubber gasket from a hose line jammed inside:

------------------------------------------------

I removed it and took a razor blade to the bunged threads of the clear canister to reshape them in hopes to get it threaded back on. Luckily it worked!:

-----------------------------------------------

I got the knuckles cleaned up good, the media was a little to abrasive IMO but I followed the recommendation of our shop guy. Cleaned out the insides well with Brake-Kleen:

Some more work done first thing Monday.

I confirmed the carrier torque specs to be 80 ft/lbs, so we started there. Still some slop when rotating the ring gear. Starting to paint the knuckles back up with satin black. I also wire-wheeled and painted the steering rod:

 

[n8in8or]

It always sucks when you have fix something before you can fix the thing you started out doing.....especially when it's due to somebody else's carelessness. Your progress looks good. I'll be interested to hear what that slop you're feeling turns out to be in thousandths of an inch.

 

[DieselSlug]

I'm going to leave the cover off the pumpkin for a while and continue on the outers. This will give me some time to get my WebMD on YouTube measuring backlash with a dial indicator (also have to go out and buy one).

For now, clean up and parts painting continues:

-------------------------------------------------

Damn, missed the same spot on both knuckles, instead of sand more down here ill just take the extra 2 minutes and tape:

 

[DieselSlug]

A little bit more, moving on to cleaning the backing plates.

Set everything up just as it came off (as a mock), less 1 spring that was broken on the passenger side:

----------------------------------------------

Bare plates (well bare plus grease & crud):

-----------------------------------------------

Pressure washed with the Hotsy to remove massive amounts of buildup on the back side, then blasted with the media unit:

-------------------------------------------------

First coat of paint:

 

[DieselSlug]

HUGE WIN, over lunch today. I found the metal split ring and rubber seal on eBay (https://www.ebay.com/itm/Dana-Spice...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649) I also found the felt wiper seals individually on Torque King (TK) (https://torqueking.com/product/40425/qu40425-felt-wiper-seal/). In total I spent $85!

I was only a day or two away from pulling the trigger on this all inclusive kit from TK (https://torqueking.com/product/4936...all-seal-kit-for-dana-44hd-60-70-front-axles/). This would have been over $250!!!

I've been researching this on-and-off for over a week now trying to cross reference obsolete parts and making my own kit. I really dont need the hard parts as mine are in great condition.

 

[DieselSlug]

Small progress, taping off the mating surfaces and applying the first light coat.....

I know, its an ugly tape job but its working so far:

Drive flanges and backing plates:

 

[DieselSlug]

More paint, first daily task is to warm the cans up in front of the work-light:

------------------------------------------------

Started chasing threads as during dis-assembly I saw a lot of upcoming troubles with stripped threads:

------------------------------------------------

Found a Helicoil for the oil seal locking plate:

------------------------------------------------

 

[DieselSlug]

Had to go back and sand off some of my paint as it crinkled up in an area on the drive flange. I haven't been using primer and I think I'm going to start on the rear with it. Just a nightmare to transport parts, paint outside and transport back (got some high value cars in the bay with me).

-----------------------------------------------

Did some more thread chasing:

------------------------------------------------

I also got the new knuckle seals, test fit:

-----------------------------------------------

 

[DieselSlug]

For your viewing pleasure, alternate threads I start inquiring for more info (as this is a new ball game for me) I leave out here for the most part. But this one helps tell the story on obtaining the seals and how hard they are to locate:

FA 52 Knuckle (Large) Seals - Vendor Availability

Hello all, I am on the verge of pulling the trigger over at Torque King (TK) on 2 of the 12 bolt knuckle seal kit QA4936 (includes metal ring, rubber seal, felt wiper, metal attachment rings and new screws). The Dana/Spicer part number for the kit is 706230X and obsolete. Has anyone else...

www.binderplanet.com

 

[DieselSlug]

Flopped the hubs and painting the back side (one at a time right now as I left the other old bearing at home):

------------------------------------------------

Cleaning up the felt seal retainers:

 

[DieselSlug]

Progress really gets slow around the Holidays when the truck is located at work haha.

First hub finished:

-----------------------------------------------

Either I (or a previous servicer') must have bunged the hub from removal of the oil seal. Will get a small stone from home to clean this up, for now marked:

-----------------------------------------------

Finished wheeling and cleaning the knuckle seal retainers:

--------------------------------------------------

 

[DieselSlug]

Picked up my JD corn head grease today for the knuckles. Whopping $14.....

 

[DieselSlug]

Todays conclusions are that my next purchase will be a thread repair kit. The knuckle seal (5/16-24) on one side has a bunged hole with a Helicoil previously installed. Will just need a new one inserted.

I also have a severely worn hole in the knuckle that attached the backing plate and spindle (1/2-20) that will need a repair.

 

[DieselSlug]

Purchased 2 Helicoil kits last night, apparently Prime no longer means 2-day shipping as they are set to arrive Monday.

Pulled the small brake lines off the front for cleaning/inspection:

-----------------------------------------------

Cleaned up, one of the ends is seized. Looking over it I don't think its gonna be salvageable:

 

[Will L.]

Wow, that lower line was close to failure.