1969 IH 1300D 4X4 - Pump Truck

[DieselSlug]

Found the inner axle seals on drivetrain america for under $20 shipped, great deal. They are the newer 1-piece style vs. my 2-piece. Will be ordering them today so hopefully next week reassembly of the front axle starts. I will hit another hang up when I need the $250 knuckle seals.

I'm excited to get stuff put back together after tearing down for a month...

 

[MrMarty51]

Found the inner axle seals on drivetrain america for under $20 shipped, great deal. They are the newer 1-piece style vs. my 2-piece. Will be ordering them today so hopefully next week reassembly of the front axle starts. I will hit another hang up when I need the $250 knuckle seals.

I'm excited to get stuff put back together after tearing down for a month...

I dont remember where I got the knuckle seals for the 59 Dodge Power Wagon from but it did not seem that they were that much money.

 

[DieselSlug]

The power wagons and large W300 and up trucks used the Dana 70. I did find 1 vendor for ram but they were sold out. If anyone stumbles upon any let me know. $120 each is dumb!

 

[MrMarty51]

The 59 PW is a W100 but still has the one ton differentials under it. LOL
I`ll see if I can find the receipt and figure out where I got them from.

 

[DieselSlug]

The 59 PW is a W100 but still has the one ton differentials under it. LOL
I`ll see if I can find the receipt and figure out where I got them from.

Got to thinking about this over the weekend and the seal kit for that might be an 8-bolt (unless a newer axle was swapped underneath, maybe i'm wrong). For some reason I can find the 8-bolts for cheap ($50 bucks each), however the 12-bolts are over double the price.

 

[DieselSlug]

Tiny bit of progress, waiting for the inner axle seals to arrive tomorrow.

I totally didn't realize IH put a drain plug on the underside of the case. Great ingenuity. Of course the threads are bunged from a jack I assume:

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Cleaned out the case with Brake-kleen and hit the gasket surface with a sander:

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Started cleaning up the cover, might have a go around with the sand blaster on it:

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[DieselSlug]

Moar.....

Wire wheeling on lunch:

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I bought some Rustoleum satin for the chassis parts that I will be repainting while they are off. Of course forgot it at home today. I still need to pick up some IH red for the drive flanges and spindles. Trying to set off the black wheels.

 

[MrMarty51]

Got to thinking about this over the weekend and the seal kit for that might be an 8-bolt (unless a newer axle was swapped underneath, maybe i'm wrong). For some reason I can find the 8-bolts for cheap ($50 bucks each), however the 12-bolts are over double the price.

I could not find the receipt for them seals. Next time I get over to My sons property I`ll count the bolt holes on that knuckle flange. I am sure that they are a 12 bolt.
But then too, that was over ten years ago that I bought those seals, prices may have substantially increased since then.

 

[DieselSlug]

I could not find the receipt for them seals. Next time I get over to My sons property I`ll count the bolt holes on that knuckle flange. I am sure that they are a 12 bolt.
But then too, that was over ten years ago that I bought those seals, prices may have substantially increased since then.

Could very well be, I know I saw a lot of posts in the early 2000's stating they were cheap (like $25 a side cheap). I know people who drive their IH trucks a lot swap out to GM axles for parts availability. I'm trying to stick with originality for now.

 

[DieselSlug]

 

[DieselSlug]

My new inner axle seals were supposed to be here yesterday, but never showed up. Back to wire wheeling and spray painting:

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[DieselSlug]

The seals came in. Measured the O.D.'s to double check: Old Seals ~2.995'', New seal approximately 3.005''. Went in like gloves, I put a thin layer of Permatex #2 on the exterior pressed surfaces of each prior to getting them in. Put some old oil on the seal surface for now until I have the new fresh oil in hand. Passenger side first, then drivers allowing additional control in the smaller tube with my 3/4'' drive and 2 & 1/16'' socket ram-rod setup

 

[MrMarty51]

YUP, that's how its done out here in the west too. LOL
The 59 Power Wagon had been run over some mighty rough terrain and the front steering had taken a severe beating. The only reason I had switched to that ford steer knuckle was that the knuckle on the 59 had a crack where one of the threaded bolt/stud holes was drilled through it.
I may be wrong but, I believe that all the parts for Your IH and the 59 PW are still available, its just the price a person paus to keep them right. LOL

 

[DieselSlug]

Correct, Torque King seems to be the go to for large knuckle IH stuff. Small knuckle parts can be had much easier.

I did find a PW site with 12 bolt seals but pricing was on a call for availability basis. I now need to purchase these seals as after carrier installation I am at a standstill.

 

[DieselSlug]

Started today by cleaning up some more parts:

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Hmm, some stripped threads I didn't notice upon disassembly? Noted for re-assembly:

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Carrier is seated via alternating a wooden board between each side sliding it back evenly, currently the straps are not tightened down as my manual is home with the specs. Not quite as tight as I would hope (meshing with ring gear to pinion). There is a little slop between them that you can feel when hand rotating but very small (maybe the bearing caps will mitigate upon correct torque?). I cant remember if this was like that upon disassembly. Eventually I will have my buddy redo the pinion so this will be addressed next summer.

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Checking the brake lines for size as I will be making new ones. Looking for a new brake flaring tool (lots of cussing the last time I used my Harbor Freight model). Thinking of the Titan for 3/16 line only or the Rigid. I would love the Eastwood or Mastercool model but that is just out of my price range for intended use.

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[Duvall]

Started today by cleaning up some more parts:

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Hmm, some stripped threads I didn't notice upon disassembly? Noted for re-assembly:

------------------------------------------------

Carrier is seated via alternating a wooden board between each side sliding it back evenly, currently the straps are not tightened down as my manual is home with the specs. Not quite as tight as I would hope (meshing with ring gear to pinion). There is a little slop between them that you can feel when hand rotating but very small (maybe the bearing caps will mitigate upon correct torque?). I cant remember if this was like that upon disassembly. Eventually I will have my buddy redo the pinion so this will be addressed next summer.

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The "slop" you feel between the ring and pinion is called backlash. You should have backlash.

There should be a spec in your manual for the amount of backlash required when setting it up. Its measured by indicating off the ring gear.


I always look forward to your project updates. Keep up the good work!

 

[DieselSlug]

The "slop" you feel between the ring and pinion is called backlash. You should have backlash.

There should be a spec in your manual for the amount of backlash required when setting it up. Its measured by indicating off the ring gear.


I always look forward to your project updates. Keep up the good work!

Thank you, I try to document it the best I can on dis-assembly as upon re-assembly I come right back to this page to show me "how it came apart".

I just hope its not too much, gear work always gets subbed out for me. I don't have a dial indicator or anything like that. I wish I noted how it was prior. Thought I would take the driveshaft out until I can get it checked for sure however with the drive flanges I still cant disconnect at the hubs, so essential removing the front shaft to save wear (if it is that far out of whack) wont do a thing.

 

[ak diesel driver]

Might try this

http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx/Brake-Line-Universal-Copper-Nickel-Hydraulic/_/R-BK_6413347_0076381717

I believe another brand name is nicopp

 

[ak diesel driver]

Supposed to be basically rustproof and easier to bend

 

[DieselSlug]

Might try this

http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx/Brake-Line-Universal-Copper-Nickel-Hydraulic/_/R-BK_6413347_0076381717

I believe another brand name is nicopp

Supposed to be basically rustproof and easier to bend

Interesting, I have never seen anyone actually use a nearly full copper line for brakes nor did I even know it was an option. When I go and get sections I will see if this is available. I need to measure the total length of the bent up lines and see if I can buy a pre-made 6'' section and just need to bend or something like that. I also need to get the rubber lines replaced, once the knuckles are back on I will begin this task.