dbrannon79
I'm getting there!
do the relay mod so the power draw isn't going through the OPS.
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‘94 Hard Start (video)
- Thread starter Big T
- Start date
Will L.
Well-Known Member
He has Leroy’s kit w/ the switch.
Big T
Well-Known Member
We are still having issues with the Walbro lift pump. We can get the engine running by using the manual override in Leroy’s harness and opening the valve on top of the FFM to allow it to fill. The engine will eventually die as the FFM drains even with the manual LP override on.
I had Colby take video of the LP flow pre-FFM and there are hesitations in the flow:
I have him looking for the fuel pressure gauge to check that post FFF (pre IP). I just arrived in MT so I am not there to look for it.
Edit he found the fuel pressure gauge and the Walbro LP registers 10 psi pre-FFM. Waiting for the post FFM reading.
I had Colby take video of the LP flow pre-FFM and there are hesitations in the flow:
I have him looking for the fuel pressure gauge to check that post FFF (pre IP). I just arrived in MT so I am not there to look for it.
Edit he found the fuel pressure gauge and the Walbro LP registers 10 psi pre-FFM. Waiting for the post FFM reading.
Last edited:
Big T
Well-Known Member
Lift pump pre-FFM:
Lift pump post FFM:
Lift pump post FFM:
Will L.
Well-Known Member
Now do that test while driving
dbrannon79
I'm getting there!
That constant "spitting" from the hose in the bucket I would think should be a solid stream with the LP back near the tank. make me wonder if it's is having a hard time keeping prime or getting air. try submerging the hose in the bucket and see if there is air bubbling with the fuel.
Big T
Well-Known Member
Think we found the problem. Had my son go through and test the fuel pressure before and after the FFM. Got 10 psi with occasional dips to 9 psi. Then had him install the T-fitting for the pressure gauge before the IP inlet and run the engine. Same result and surprisingly it ran fine for over 20 minutes:
youtube.com
Then he uninstalled the T-fitting and pressure gauge and ran the engine. It stalled within 2 minutes like before this test. We believe that is because T-fitting and extra hose to install it to the IP eliminated a sharp bend/kink in the existing hose:
Compare that bend to the video above.
With all the prior work that hose end to the IP had split and I cut it back to eliminate the split end. That shortened the hose and made the bend into a kink which starved it of fuel. It would die when it sucked the FFM dry. We’ll get a new longer hose and install it this week.
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Then he uninstalled the T-fitting and pressure gauge and ran the engine. It stalled within 2 minutes like before this test. We believe that is because T-fitting and extra hose to install it to the IP eliminated a sharp bend/kink in the existing hose:
Compare that bend to the video above.
With all the prior work that hose end to the IP had split and I cut it back to eliminate the split end. That shortened the hose and made the bend into a kink which starved it of fuel. It would die when it sucked the FFM dry. We’ll get a new longer hose and install it this week.
Will L.
Well-Known Member
Prime example why you want fuel pressure gauge attached right at the ip in metal fitting.
It would have shown the lack of pressure from the hose pinch.
It would have shown the lack of pressure from the hose pinch.
Big T
Well-Known Member
Do they have fittings that would go between a braided stainless hose end and the 90 degree inlet barb from the FTB kit? I would need one of those 90 degree inlet barbs for this ‘94 and the fitting to the FFM plus braided stainless hose. Just the t-fitting for mine as it has the braided stainless FTB kit.
Will L.
Well-Known Member
Idk. My suggestion is call Mod Mafia and ask what sizing theirs is if it is for FTB or not. I still haven’t seen anyone else selling the parts.
Other than that take your fittings out and down to a hydraulic shop, or place like summit if you go through Reno when you travel better Ca and Mt.
You Do NOT want the thin aluminum A&N brand ones if at all possible. They are thin for light weight racing and we need heavy duty to fight vibration.
Finding the part is the hard part and why most folks pay the extra $- it might take several hours going to different stores to get what you need unless they can identify size and such for you at the first one if they don’t have it. None of the Autozone type places will have that.
Db2 is easy- just a street T in 5/16 or 3/8 depending if someone upgraded to the 3/8 ford cone or drilled and tapped theirs. Ds4 has some odd thread iirc.
Maybe it’s easy to find? I hope for you anyways...
Other than that take your fittings out and down to a hydraulic shop, or place like summit if you go through Reno when you travel better Ca and Mt.
You Do NOT want the thin aluminum A&N brand ones if at all possible. They are thin for light weight racing and we need heavy duty to fight vibration.
Finding the part is the hard part and why most folks pay the extra $- it might take several hours going to different stores to get what you need unless they can identify size and such for you at the first one if they don’t have it. None of the Autozone type places will have that.
Db2 is easy- just a street T in 5/16 or 3/8 depending if someone upgraded to the 3/8 ford cone or drilled and tapped theirs. Ds4 has some odd thread iirc.
Maybe it’s easy to find? I hope for you anyways...
Big T
Well-Known Member
Still having difficulty visualizing where the heck the Mod Mafia fitting goes. How does that get me a T-fitting for the gauge? What would connect to the IP? Where does the T-fitting fitting look like and where would it go? Does this only work on rubber hose set-ups. How do I get it to a gauge in the cab without running live fuel hose in there? Has anyone done this that can show pics or video of the set-up?
Fuel Pressure Tap (FPT)
This item makes it very easy to add a fuel pressure gauge to your 6.5 equipped vehicle.
modmafia.com
MrMarty51
Well-Known Member
Electronical fuel pressure gauge is fairly easy to find.Still having difficulty visualizing where the heck the Mod Mafia fitting goes. How does that get me a T-fitting for the gauge? What would connect to the IP? Where does the T-fitting fitting look like and where would it go? Does this only work on rubber hose set-ups. How do I get it to a gauge in the cab without running live fuel hose in there? Has anyone done this that can show pics or video of the set-up?
Fuel Pressure Tap (FPT)
This item makes it very easy to add a fuel pressure gauge to your 6.5 equipped vehicle.
As an Amazon Associate we earn from qualifying purchases.
dbrannon79
I'm getting there!
The fitting threaded into the filter screen in the IP is a #4 oring boss hydraulic size if that helps. if you were to get a make #4 oring boss to male #6 AN (37 deg flare) fitting, that fitting you linked would screw right to it and have the port for the pressure gauge.
If your going feed the beast mode, you may want to drill out the inside of the make #4 oring boss side of the fitting as the ID will be around 1/4" since the fitting will be rated for high pressure from a hydraulic stand point. you should be able to bore it out to around 5/16" or so.
If your going feed the beast mode, you may want to drill out the inside of the make #4 oring boss side of the fitting as the ID will be around 1/4" since the fitting will be rated for high pressure from a hydraulic stand point. you should be able to bore it out to around 5/16" or so.
Big T
Well-Known Member
So the fitting i posted threads into the IP inlet in lieu of the existing inlet fitting?
What goes into the nut on the other side?
Does the sensor thread into the dot on the side of the nut portion of the fitting?
Big T
Well-Known Member
In Marty's link it shows this t-fitting:
Gauge sensor threads right into that. If that is for the current hose size (FTB) on the '94, it would work well. Only other issues is a single gauge pod and getting the wire into the cab.
Gauge sensor threads right into that. If that is for the current hose size (FTB) on the '94, it would work well. Only other issues is a single gauge pod and getting the wire into the cab.
Big T
Well-Known Member
Sorry this video shows the lift pump fuel pressure while running and it shows how the T and extra hose negates the kink of the FTB hose to the IP:
youtube.com
Also note no more bubbles in the clear return line.
The engine sounds good when it's getting plenty of fuel.
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Also note no more bubbles in the clear return line.
The engine sounds good when it's getting plenty of fuel.
Will L.
Well-Known Member
The problem with the one Marty shows is that puts rubber hose between the ip and the gauge sending unit. It would work, but when that rubber hose fails internally, you wont know the ip is being starved because the gauge could get pressure still.
Use an electric gauge not a mechanical one.
Here is a sending unit and gauge as example. There are better gauges- thia one is just first to pop up on a search.
www.glowshiftdirect.com
Use an electric gauge not a mechanical one.
Here is a sending unit and gauge as example. There are better gauges- thia one is just first to pop up on a search.
Tinted 30 PSI Fuel Pressure Gauge
GlowShift Tinted Series 30 PSI Fuel Pressure Gauges Monitor Car and Truck Fuel Pressure From 0 to 30 PSI On An Analog Display to Confirm Levels Are Optimal.
www.glowshiftdirect.com
Big T
Well-Known Member
The problem with the one Marty shows is that puts rubber hose between the ip and the gauge sending unit. It would work, but when that rubber hose fails internally, you wont know the ip is being starved because the gauge could get pressure still.
Use an electric gauge not a mechanical one.
View attachment 70442
Here is a sending unit and gauge as example. There are better gauges- thia one is just first to pop up on a search.
View attachment 70443
Tinted 30 PSI Fuel Pressure Gauge
GlowShift Tinted Series 30 PSI Fuel Pressure Gauges Monitor Car and Truck Fuel Pressure From 0 to 30 PSI On An Analog Display to Confirm Levels Are Optimal.
Thanks for the visual. That makes more sense. Only issue is whether there would be room for that type of sender.
ak diesel driver
6.5 driver
You can remote mount the sender with a grease gun hose.
Big T
Well-Known Member
The problem with the one Marty shows is that puts rubber hose between the ip and the gauge sending unit. It would work, but when that rubber hose fails internally, you wont know the ip is being starved because the gauge could get pressure still.
Use an electric gauge not a mechanical one.
View attachment 70442
Here is a sending unit and gauge as example. There are better gauges- thia one is just first to pop up on a search.
View attachment 70443
Tinted 30 PSI Fuel Pressure Gauge
GlowShift Tinted Series 30 PSI Fuel Pressure Gauges Monitor Car and Truck Fuel Pressure From 0 to 30 PSI On An Analog Display to Confirm Levels Are Optimal.
If that fitting goes into the IP and then the original inlet fitting goes into it, my 90 degree FTB fitting for AN Braided hose would go right into that. That set-up would also eliminate the kinked hose issue on the '94. I would need a fitting for the braided stainless hose on the other side out of the FFM.