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‘94 Hard Start (video)

We have the FTB installed on the '94, but what we don't have is the near u-turn fitting at the IP which would address the kincked hose:

1641839649546.png

Where can I get just that fitting at non-marked up pricing?
 
@Big T the fitting that Will showed will thread right on to the fitting I circled on the pic of your IP without the "U" shaped barb you have there. the stainless braid lines with AN fittings would also thread onto it with ease for the feed the beast mod. that one that I circled is what I was referring to that has male #4 oring boss going into the IP filter screen. you can get that same fitting in a 90 deg if it sticks straight up too far too (pic below)

1641839649546_LI.jpg

1641853816667.png
 
That hard 90° fitting is not a good idea. That causes turbulence in the fuel flow and can create aeration. I remember warnings about that from GM.

But yes that is exactly where the T fitting from MM would go. I’m pretty sure MM is just buying and reselling the T. That 135° fitting Leroy sells- I can’t remember ever seeing one like that around normal supply shops. There are plenty of local mfrs that do small run custom fittings. That might be the case here.

As to the sending unit physically fitting there- I have seen a few hummers that stuff d it in there and the hummer intake gets in the way worse. Although a hose from the fitting to the sending unit would work- again it is defeating the concept of no hose deterioration possible of having a difference at the ip inlet and at the sending unit.
I don’t have any pics to share- I don’t own a ds4, I usually gave them away when I ended up with one.
 
That hard 90° fitting is not a good idea. That causes turbulence in the fuel flow and can create aeration. I remember warnings about that from GM.

But yes that is exactly where the T fitting from MM would go. I’m pretty sure MM is just buying and reselling the T. That 135° fitting Leroy sells- I can’t remember ever seeing one like that around normal supply shops. There are plenty of local mfrs that do small run custom fittings. That might be the case here.

As to the sending unit physically fitting there- I have seen a few hummers that stuff d it in there and the hummer intake gets in the way worse. Although a hose from the fitting to the sending unit would work- again it is defeating the concept of no hose deterioration possible of having a difference at the ip inlet and at the sending unit.
I don’t have any pics to share- I don’t own a ds4, I usually gave them away when I ended up with one.

Turns out we have a 90 degree sweep fitting on one of the old DS4 injection pumps:

C59F7CAF-D61A-43B3-9388-D78EF63B68A4.jpeg

I just forgot to swap it onto the new IP. Too much on my plate.
 
Ok good. Yeah- see how the factory did a sweep and not a HARD 90°
There is a serious reason for that....

I learned the hard way on that. The issue is I don’t have continuity or chain of custody on the rig and just too much on my plate.
 
If you still want the gauge find a steel fitting that will fit the T and then find someone to tig it on there after you cut off the hose barb
Its a good idea, and anyone that can tig themselves could do it easy and cheap. But to pay a pro, they would charge more to weld it up and test it than to just buy the one for $30. They include shipping with their prices.

Knowing where to find these oddball pieces is a hard thing. That is part of the value in their price. A feller can spend days searching and spend a lot of fuel and be fruitless in the end. He needs 2, one for his and one for his son’s- so that’s $60. Maybe he could buy the two for $20, but time spent searching vs $40? Or same time spent talking to welders and driving a couple different shops, then fuel to go back and get them a couple hours later or wait around in a parking lot while the two get done.
It’s a time vs money game. Maybe at the home in Cali there is better chances?
But the a use the ip has taken already- to me it’s like- just buy them and the gauges and get it over with.
 
at work, many times we have made things like this where we have needed a small port on a hydraulic fitting. we ended up drilling and taping a side port on the nut of a larger fitting. I'd be intrested in trying something like this with a fitting if the hex portion has enough meat to tap a hole. I forget what size npt is smaller than 1/8" for some reason 1/16" rings a bell, but at work we have several different threaded fittings smaller than 1/8", some are metric too. something small enough to run that tiny compression tubing or copper line for a gauge / sensor on the firewall.
 
More detail:

He drove it around on some errands. Probably like around 4 to 5 miles. After the second stop, it fired up then stalled while driving it. The FFM was full. He used the Leroy override to the OPS, lift pump running, got it running again only to stall and could not get it restarted, even though the lift pump was running.

So we know when lift pump is operating that we get 10 psi on a fuel pressure gauge. Will L will tell me to install a gauge so I can watch that, but what's the point when we had it on the override, lift pump running the whole time. I think this IP is bad and we need to submit for replacement under warranty.
 
What the point is- you could have hose plugging and don’t know it. You could have intermittent Lp cutting out. You could have a leaf in the tank that occasionally plugs the sock and you don’t know it.

The expense of $125-150 for metal T, and a gauge is not spending the money and time on a guess of buy a new ip because you know it didn’t have this problem with the ip Marty loaned you for testing.

If he had that fitting reading the pressure at 8 or 10 psi and it died- next thing is open hood, turn on switch and watch clear tube. If it is flowing clear and clean while keeping pressure up- Then ip time.

Or skip the gauge and buy an ip to replace the ip you just bought.

There is the option of hooking up a laptop and having it record everything non stop while he drives and when it happens again note the time. Then hopefully you see something odd happening that one of the ds4 geniuses here could see something. It is a possibility, I am from Vegas so I wouldn’t take those odds, but maybe it could be something noticeable there.

Absolutely could try replacement under warranty. It sure isn’t as good as Marty’s used one was.
 
What the point is- you could have hose plugging and don’t know it. You could have intermittent Lp cutting out. You could have a leaf in the tank that occasionally plugs the sock and you don’t know it.

The expense of $125-150 for metal T, and a gauge is not spending the money and time on a guess of buy a new ip because you know it didn’t have this problem with the ip Marty loaned you for testing.

If he had that fitting reading the pressure at 8 or 10 psi and it died- next thing is open hood, turn on switch and watch clear tube. If it is flowing clear and clean while keeping pressure up- Then ip time.

Or skip the gauge and buy an ip to replace the ip you just bought.

There is the option of hooking up a laptop and having it record everything non stop while he drives and when it happens again note the time. Then hopefully you see something odd happening that one of the ds4 geniuses here could see something. It is a possibility, I am from Vegas so I wouldn’t take those odds, but maybe it could be something noticeable there.

Absolutely could try replacement under warranty. It sure isn’t as good as Marty’s used one was.

Well he only ran it for a week on Marty’s IP. So there’s that.

AC Delco IP has a 24-month warranty.

I will buy the fuel pressure gauge set-up. I am pretty confident now that it will show NOTHING.

He can’t drive it like this and risk another tow (has AAA). So install your prescribed gauge, run it at idle until it dies? We’ve already done that with a fuel pressure gauge.
 
Last edited:
Ordered 2 of the fuel pressure gauges:

Amazon.com: GlowShift White 7 Color 30 PSI Fuel Pressure Gauge Kit - Includes Electronic Sensor - White Dial - Clear Lens - for Diesel Trucks - 2-1/16" 52mm : Automotive

Two of the single gauge pod mounts:

Amazon.com: GlowShift Universal Black Single Gauge Console Dashboard Pod - Fits Any Make/Model - ABS Plastic - Mounts (1) 2-1/16" (52mm) Gauge to Vehicle's Dash : Automotive

And two of the fuel pressure gauge adaptors:

Fuel Pressure Gauge Adapter | Mod Mafia

I've asked MrMarty to send his loaner IP directly to my son. We will test again but really need the box it came in as we can return via Amazon up until January 31st.

Colby will have some work to do the next couple weekends. Though by now he's well down the learning curve on IP removal and install.
 
As an Amazon Associate we earn from qualifying purchases.
Ordered 2 of the fuel pressure gauges:

Amazon.com: GlowShift White 7 Color 30 PSI Fuel Pressure Gauge Kit - Includes Electronic Sensor - White Dial - Clear Lens - for Diesel Trucks - 2-1/16" 52mm : Automotive

Two of the single gauge pod mounts:

Amazon.com: GlowShift Universal Black Single Gauge Console Dashboard Pod - Fits Any Make/Model - ABS Plastic - Mounts (1) 2-1/16" (52mm) Gauge to Vehicle's Dash : Automotive

And two of the fuel pressure gauge adaptors:

Fuel Pressure Gauge Adapter | Mod Mafia

I've asked MrMarty to send his loaner IP directly to my son. We will test again but really need the box it came in as we can return via Amazon up until January 31st.

Colby will have some work to do the next couple weekends. Though by now he's well down the learning curve on IP removal and install.
I got a pod mount similar except for room for three gauges in one pod. I now have only the RH rear cylinder head temp gauge in the center hole. When I set it up, I run out two extra wires for two more sensors, maybe two FP gauges 🤷‍♂️, Within the pod, I also pig tailed out two keyed/batt + pigtails and also two extra ground pig tails. Just to be a little ahead when I do decide what I in the two extra pod mount holes for gauges.
Mine is like this one. I trimmed aand fit a piece of aluminum for the open bottom.
151778E4-6CCF-4C02-B936-DEC9527B42E9.jpeg
 
As an Amazon Associate we earn from qualifying purchases.
I set the pod on too of the dash. It rests nicely against the windshield and the wires from the pillar to the gauges lay against the glass/dash nicely so it is not like an unsightly mess.
 
I got a pod mount similar except for room for three gauges in one pod. I now have only the RH rear cylinder head temp gauge in the center hole. When I set it up, I run out two extra wires for two more sensors, maybe two FP gauges 🤷‍♂️, Within the pod, I also pig tailed out two keyed/batt + pigtails and also two extra ground pig tails. Just to be a little ahead when I do decide what I in the two extra pod mount holes for gauges.
Mine is like this one. I trimmed aand fit a piece of aluminum for the open bottom.
View attachment 70539

We already have triple gauge pods on the pillar. No room for one more, thus the single pod for on top of the dash.
 
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