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Well, when the 6.5 debuted in 1992 with the increased displacement and turbocharger the compression ratio was 21.3:1 and that is according to my factory GM student training book (that you can sometimes pick up on Ebay). I wanna say that the ratio is 21.3:1 from 92-98 and then in the last 2-3...

Question on the diamond precups...where can you buy a set of 8? Or where is the best place to buy a set? Peninsular? Also, how much would they lower compression ratio when compared side by side to the stock 6.5 turbo 21.3:1 ratio precups?

Wanted to say that those are really nice numbers with obvious room for improvement. Right now your engine is probably very close to making 300 hp at the crank! That's nothing to sneeze at and keep up the great work!

I know if you get a true, original Super HX40 it has a 7 blade compressor and 10 blade turbine. So I would think that the 10 blade would be better and best for flow. Anyone have any trouble with an HX40II yet....one coming apart? Had to ask since they are made in China right?

I wonder if that is up to at least 4200-4300 rpm or it stays below 4000. Also am curious if the towing cam or high performance cam would be a better choice for a pulling truck? I would first think the towing cam would be because you are "pulling/towing" and simulating it as towing on the road...

Thanks. And I'd be pulling @ The Buck in Quarryville, PA and also would try Mason Dixon over in Delta, PA. Never been to Mason Dixon, but they have a well known fair every year and do have classes like The Buck does. As far as the class goes I'd be starting in the "Street Legal" class because...

On the small four plunger pump that you built are you using a DB4-427 type pump say off a John Deere engine? I've seen these around here and there and looks very similar to the DB2-8xx pumps on the 6.2/6.5, except the top housing looks slightly different where you would normally have your fuel...

Last weekend I picked up and bought a 6.5 N/A engine out of a 96 van for $300. Has about 235k miles and needs an injection pump, but was told it ran before the pump and even had head gaskets put in 40k miles ago. So heads are definitely not cracked. I was really surprised to get it home and...

I really thought about doing twin turbos on a 6.2/6.5 just because of being able to have two banks on each side of the engine. Wasn't sure what to do for the manifolds while staying away from getting something custom made (because of costing too much). Thought about taking a truck passenger...

Talking about flexplates.....I've always wanted to know can you even get an aftermarket or updated, thicker flexplate for 6.2 or 6.5 engines? I know I've heard of numerous stories of cracked flexplates causing noise and vibration, so why not fix it with a thicker SFI flexplate. Does anyone...

Question...would a Hummer oil pan clear the girdle and studs since it's totally different than the pickup engine pans? Or would you still have to do cutting and welding?

What year engines ran the 20.2:1 pistons, is that 98 or 99 and later? I know from being released in 1992 that the 6.5 started out at 21.3:1.

That is sweet, quality work! Very nice bottom end girdle and would love to build one like it.

I found out it is a non-turbo 6.5 out of a 96 van, so since there is no turbo then it's just about a guarantee that there are no piston oil squirters. Looking at buying it for a project build-up engine to put twin turbos and a 300-350 HP capable mechanical injection pump on. Oh....and I don't...

Old thread here and I know the 599 and 929 are good blocks to build on being from the 91-95 era w/o the piston oil squirters. And of course having a good track record on having way less potential cracks/problems when compared to the 97+ 506 block. I had a question on a 141 casting out of a...

Same thing happened to the engine in a 1994 Suburban my buddy and I bought 2.5 years ago. Factory engine at 234k miles would not start and we went to go look at it when it was for sale. Bought it and after towing it home found both starter bolt holes broke out (w/ the outer hole the worse of...

That is very nice work on the downpipe! So this piece just gets you to the area where the factory or aftermarket 6.5 downpipe would attach on a GM-X style turbo right?

I agree and it's a lot of boost psi with stock compression. Sorry to hear about the engine and good luck with getting it back up and running. Damn and those rods are forged steel too!

38 psi boost says it all and that is definitely putting a load and test on one of these engines. I really am confident and like Heath's setup with using the main studs and filling the block (up to your choice height) for keeping the bottom end sturdy like he did for his "500 HP" race engine. I...

Thanks for the reply and been awhile since I posted this. Wasn't sure I was going to get a reply, but makes perfect sense that you'd machine the crank to fit the older blocks. I knew it would be a little involved to try to use the "scat" and 660 combo, so I figured all along I'd be better off...