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Does anyone have any data on the heath HT-4 cam's

Twisted Steel Performance

Twisted Steel Performance

Anything worth doing is worth overdoing.
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I called Heath the other day and Bill wasn't there to talk to me so the kid that answered the phone couldn't answer any question's about the "new HT-4 Towing cam" as for specs or data to back up anything he said.

All he could say was that I would need a comp program for everything to work right, well the kid didn't understand that I have a manual pump and I don;t have a comp to program, so he didn't know what to say other that the cam & springs would be better..

Has anyone used the HT-4 cam from heath that has a DB2 pump and do you have any kind of data to back the clams that they will give more power??

It looks like if Bill Heath wanted to really promote his so called new cams, he would have some data to back up the tork & HP clams that he states they will produce, and at 600$ I can't just take his word for it, I need to see some proof of what is being claimed.
 
No specs available, so hard to speculate how it will impact performance. The cam has room for improvement, that I can tell you, we just dont know what changes they made for what kind of improvement. And no other quantitative data on them, very little qualitative.

I would find it hard to promote the additional benefits of a cam, where a turbo swap would be a better investment. If you've got a good turbo already then you can start spending on all the supporting characteristics of the engine, such as valve timing and manifold changes.

For a guy with a good sized turbo on an already well running engine, I would recommend the Harland Sharp 1.6:1 roller rockers, and extrude honing the passenger turbo exhaust manifold. Rather than tearing into the engine. The rockers cost a lot too, as well as honing, but at least its bolt on stuff without pulling the engine.
 
I might do that Monday, but if all they acn say is that the new regrind is better and not have anything to back it up, I will continue my build with my stock cam, 600$ on just someones word that is tiring to sell me something doesn't work with me with out some real numbers.
 
I'm pretty sure Bill or Todd can go into a bit more detail than it's better.

Maybe not dyno numbers, but probably some background on the development and any results they've seen.

In my experience with the shop, Bill is more of a "real world impressions" kind of guy more than a "dyno numbers guy"....
 
sctrailrider said:
I called Heath the other day and Bill wasn't there to talk to me so the kid that answered the phone couldn't answer any question's about the "new HT-4 Towing cam" as for specs or data to back up anything he said.

All he could say was that I would need a comp program for everything to work right, well the kid didn't understand that I have a manual pump and I don;t have a comp to program, so he didn't know what to say other that the cam & springs would be better.
Has anyone used the HT-4 cam from heath that has a DB2 pump and do you have any kind of data to back the clams that they will give more power??
It looks like if Bill Heath wanted to really promote his so called new cams, he would have some data to back up the tork & HP clams that he states they will produce, and at 600$ I can't just take his word for it, I need to see some proof of what is being claimed.
Click to expand...

One member, Red, has the HT-4 Cam kit and initially was using a DB-2 on his gasser swap and a manual tranny ("motors motors motors" thread). Perhaps he'll chime in help you with your angst once he's up and running down the road. While we're waiting, perhaps hitting re-dial and actually talking to Bill will get you the answers as to what the difference between "full benefit" with the tune and automatice is as compared to running it with the DB-2 and manual like Red's.
 
sctrailrider said:
I called Heath the other day and Bill wasn't there to talk to me so the kid that answered the phone couldn't answer any question's about the "new HT-4 Towing cam" as for specs or data to back up anything he said.

All he could say was that I would need a comp program for everything to work right, well the kid didn't understand that I have a manual pump and I don;t have a comp to program, so he didn't know what to say other that the cam & springs would be better..

Has anyone used the HT-4 cam from heath that has a DB2 pump and do you have any kind of data to back the clams that they will give more power??

It looks like if Bill Heath wanted to really promote his so called new cams, he would have some data to back up the tork & HP clams that he states they will produce, and at 600$ I can't just take his word for it, I need to see some proof of what is being claimed.
Click to expand...

Bill has a great reputation and when you buy from someone you do have to take there word on what they sell, that's why you buy from some company's and not others.
Read what he has posted on his site about the operating rpm's of the cam and see if it will work with your mechanical pump. Remember it's just a cam and cams are part of an engine build, many things are taken into consideration when picking a cam as there is not a one size fits all. This is probably why you need to call and talk with Bill before ordering.
 
I'll add my two cents to what others have said already, you need to call again and talk to Bill. I'm positive that 'kid' fully understood your truck didn't have a computer and was a DB2. He just doesn't have 30 years experience to draw on, didn’t design the cams and didn’t know the specifics as to how differently it would perform for you application. He knew it, and wasn't going to lead you astray making stuff up as he goes along. Bill has choice words for those who misrepresent his products, especially when they work for him, even family that works for him.

Repeat, I highly recommend that you follow through with what you said you 'might" do and call again and talk to Bill. Shoving an old 6.2 cam into that build you're doing just doesn't seem like a good investment of time and energy when something out there could potentially save you money in the long run.

As for your set up, Red's about the only member that I have read of that is building a motor with a DB2 and HT-4 so unless someone else has a surprise for us, you'll have to trust his judgment or wait for results. His thread mentions that he spent time on the phone with Bill, but doesn’t mention what questions were asked or how they might relate to yours. Red doesn't strike me as the type to throw money away when he can do better himself or knows it won't do what it should. That said, Bill isn't the type to talk people into buying things they don't need or won't do them any good. He's talked me out of some 'good idea fairy' purchases I've tried to make. I’ll trust his research to be more than “claims” and I’ll trust the experiences of friends who have ridden in the trucks as more than claims too. Not trying to start anything or call anyone out, just saying what my experiences are.

NVW, thanks for the reference, but I'm not sure my build will help sctrailrider's or others so equipped as I’m using an HP-3 Cam Kit and Max E Tork P3 tune upgrade with the DS4 and automatic transmission. Further skewing the comparison; completely different motor swapping in. I'll have an extrude honed, balanced, gasket matched motor with the all the benefits of the 'for best performance' recommended Heath upgrades to maximize the cam kit's potential (TM, LP, CAI plus FTB). "But wait, there's more...."
Interesting to some though.
 
I will try and talk to Bill this week, I just don't wont to spend the money without a good idea of what it is going to give me for my money, I feel sure that I can give it enough fuel with a DB 2833 pump, also lots of porting & ceramic coating to the inside parts.

I have read a lot about the 6.5 cam needing a good rework to be better, and with a pro 40 turbo, I think I can give it some needed air movement.

thanks everyone for the input.
 
When I called I spent about a good hour on the phone with Bill discussing the 6.5 build I'm doing we spent probably 2/3rds of that time on the cam options. The cams have not (yet) been tested with the db2 pumps when I called them, only on the electronic pumps. I'm a bit of a tester in that aspect. My build is for a 8,000 pound truck that will spend alot of its time with a trailer behind it, or being offroad at slower speeds. Not a high rpm build, will rarely see above 3,000 rpm's and I don't plan to ever take it over 3,500. Fuel economy is a plus, but the primary goal with my build is reliable low end torque that won't leave me stranded, and lets me skip a few fuel stations instead of stopping at each and every one like I currently have to do with my big block.

The results are expected to be similar to the electronic pump results, but I can't verify that until this summer when I spend some time on the dyno after I get the motor put together and installed, most likely sometime in July with my work schedule (wow thats coming up quick!!) If your hesitant about the cam then wait until the dyno run is done, at the very least though call and talk to Bill to get more info about it and what you can expect. Upgrades that should work well with it, things to avoid, your goals for the truck and other upgrades you want to use, etc.
 
Thanks Red, I can wait, i would like to have a little more info before I purchase, and I do plan on calling and talking with Bill.
 
Everyone keeps talking about how they are making power at 4600-4800 rpm. I wonder if these cams make any big power difference in a normal rpm range? imho i am a little weary of spinning a stock engine like mine with 165k miles that high of an rpm.
 
I'm with you Woody, I don't plan or need to spin mine that much, I am looking for a range between 2000 - 3000 RPM's, the lower the better for me, I don't run mine that hard.
 
red said:
the towing cam that Heath sells is setup for low-mid rpm ranges
Click to expand...

I wonder if that is up to at least 4200-4300 rpm or it stays below 4000. Also am curious if the towing cam or high performance cam would be a better choice for a pulling truck? I would first think the towing cam would be because you are "pulling/towing" and simulating it as towing on the road, but if it doesn't go too high an rpm it may not be advantageous if the engine would need to spin higher rpm then what that cam is rated for.
 
Would need to talk to Bill or someone else there that is much more familiar with the cams. 4000 rpm's is higher than I'm concerned with. What rpm's are you looking to start making your power at?
 
"HP #4 is designed to optimize towing performance, delivering excellent torque and power in the 1800-3600 rpm range. The HP#4 is supplied in kit form with valve springs engineered specifically for its unique lobe profiles.

"The T-4 Max E Tork program is set to a 3700 rpm engine rev limit & full throttle automatic upshift points at approximately 3550 rpm. These and other settings can be altered to suit individual customer requirement. "
 
I would just call up Delta and get a custom regrind or their #206 cam. Custom grind is $140 +shop around for the springs which I'm sure you won't spend more than $160 on =$300. Less than half the cost of the parts from heath...
 
I paid about $140 for a custom grind on one, whatever specs I wanted from a small shop in Oregon that answered emails, phone questions, ect...he had quite a few profiles for the 6.5 in his system. So had done some tinkering in the past.
 
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