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Some of you guys are quick to be defensive over the software. I'm not knocking it, I'm just saying the OP's reason, his reason for starting the thread, was weak and didn't require buying software when a paperclip would suffice. I thought bulletin boards like this are supposed to help people...

And he could have found the codes with a paperclip... weak argument for buying software.

I had the same problem on my '97, and it turned out the problem was the blown lightbulb for the ashtray. Pulled the bad bulb out, no more blown fuses...

It's been a few days, but... no one mentioned replacing the plastic rocker retainer buttons. May want to change those while you're at it.

You must have one of those trucks that easily gets lost in a crowd. :D People lose me all the time, even when I'm wearing a bright yellow fleece. I'm only 6'4", but people who notice me are quick to throw a Big Bird reference...

There should be a gasket between the turbo and the oil drain tube. If the turbo has been removed before, replacing the gasket may have been overlooked.

ronniejoe, over at the Diesel Page, has created the Power Flow turbo. That is a modified HX-40... It's considerably more expensive than the ATT, but if you want the best you may want to look at his turbo. As far as I know, he doesn't participate on this board, so I won't provide a link in my...

Your discount code box doesn't work... stays grayed out in IE8 (Internet Explorer totally sucks, I know).

What year is your truck? On 95's in particular, this was a tell-tale sign that the ignition switch was heading south.

j k, Is this an issue with your Cummins Suburban?

Robyn, Out of curiosity, where'd you get your engine stand? How do you like it?

Check /etc/groups and make sure your user account is a member of the lp group. :D Inkjets are crap, get a laser. I snagged an HP Color LaserJet 3600N at Newegg.com for $250 recently.

You have a TurboMaster: - If you left the vacuum pump in place, check that the plastic lines are still attached properly to the pump and the other end is plugged into the wastegate solenoid. Your engine will sound awful otherwise...

Get OpenOffice Microsoft Office compatible, and legitimately free. Works good.

You can get a forged crank through Peninsular Diesel.

I'm with Kennedy, I think you need the dual thermostat housing. You've got a real nice Tahoe, I'd hate to see you give up on it at this point. Heath and Kennedy are both standup operations, I'm sure they'd be glad to hear either way if going to dual T-stats helps.

Often times, a simple 'click' when turning the key could be the result of a loose battery cable. I've had this happen... snugged the battery terminals, and it fired right up.

Slackware user here. Got started with Red Hat in '97. Linux has been on my desktop ever since.