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What did you do with your GMT400 today...or yesterday....

Will L. said:
yeah that hose is a pain. I cut the old one in half to make removal easy.

Right now while doing it is the time to add the restriction fitting. For ease Leroy sells his wazoo one. Enjoy pinching pennies on trucks so you can spend it on the ranch instead means diy one. Nate’s example in his build thread is a simple and effective method.
My method was weld it up with a brass rod 3/8” diameter for the hole. The method GM showed as popular was welding a new one, slow cool so it wouldn’t be hardened, drill 3/8 hole then reheat it and quench for temper. Of course they described exactly how they felt customers would do it and if we saw the part done this way to leave the customer modified part in there and simply note it in the vehicle history. Then for some reason when installing the new part they were available as a “-M” part number and we got paid an extra 1.2 hours for some unknown reason, they never would admit that this is what you are supposed to do.
Gotta love the lawyers.
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It’s got the single stat crossover and the HO water pump with spin on fan clutch.

I cut the hose about an inch longer than the one I took out, then two more cuts to properly size. Flipped the worm screw clamp so the screws are on the passenger side pointed forward for better access in the future. Foamed the front of the engine and impacted areas underneath with purple degreaser shot from pressure washer, let soak and rinse with pressure washer. Then I filled the coolant reservoir with new coolant mix and went for a 5 mile test drive. Test drive showed appropriate cooling and no coolant leak.
 
Remind me again which style needs the restriction fitting? the single with the block-off t-stat or the newer dual stat crossover?
 
dbrannon79 said:
Remind me again which style needs the restriction fitting? the single with the block-off t-stat or the newer dual stat crossover?
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The dual thermostat is the one that needs the restriction fitting.
The problem with the dual thermostat not having block off capability is there is a constant flow of already fully heated water going back into the block and heads limiting the amount of cooling that can be done.
With @Big T suburban staying where it is (especially if measuring the rear of the passenger head) then it should be left alone.
 
I replaced the rear tires on the ‘99, with the old ones going on steel wheels for the trailer up at Big Bear Lake home. While under the truck I noted the left rear shock (Bilstein 4600) was leaking, so I ordered a new set of Bilstein 5100s.

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Big T said:
I replaced the rear tires on the ‘99, with the old ones going on steel wheels for the trailer up at Big Bear Lake home. While under the truck I noted the left rear shock (Bilstein 4600) was leaking, so I ordered a new set of Bilstein 5100s.

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And yes the GMT 800 axle will soon get to the top of the to do list. Wife’s medical procedures are completely disrupting my schedule for things like painting the Suburbans.
 
snarl95 said:
@Big T Don't the 4600's have a lifetime warranty?
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Defects caused by one or more of the following circumstances are excluded from this limited warranty:
• Normal wear and tear – The gradual loss of performance over the lifetime of the shock, including dust boots and mounting hardware, such as rubber bushings, ball joints, heims;

Mine would clearly fall under this. Aside from the one that is leaking, the rest have lost performance.
 
Replaced the lower steering shaft with a Borgeson unit. On the old shaft a needle bearing on the spider joint had disintegrated. They sent me the incorrect upper shaft for a 1999-2007 Silverado. It has a male end that goes into the steering column, whereas the OEM is a female end.

The steering wheel is clocked a bit more to the right after the install. Remind me, the pin on the end of the input shaft to the steering box only allows the steering shaft to go on one way? Or can I adjust it a notch to the left? I had tried to put it on a notch to the left, but it would not go on until I moved it one notch to the right.

The play in the steering is back to where it was. Obviously the worn steering shaft was contributing a lot to the play I was experiencing in the steering wheel.

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New fuel fittings for the Raptor lift pump arrived. Replaced the leaking one on the inlet side and new one is not leaking. Close inspection of the old one and it clearly was not leaking from the hose. There is an o-ring inside the fitting, but it was not compromised. Only thing I can think of was the fuel line had it on at a slight angle. Technically, I don’t need the hose clamp, but the old one was initially leaking there and the clamp stopped it. I cut the hose off the old fitting and pushed new section of hose onto the new fitting.

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Big T said:
New fuel fittings for the Raptor lift pump arrived. Replaced the leaking one on the inlet side and new one is not leaking. Close inspection of the old one and it clearly was not leaking from the hose. There is an o-ring inside the fitting, but it was not compromised. Only thing I can think of was the fuel line had it on at a slight angle. Technically, I don’t need the hose clamp, but the old one was initially leaking there and the clamp stopped it. I cut the hose off the old fitting and pushed new section of hose onto the new fitting.

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Why not just regular hose barbs ?
 
Big T said:
You tell me. This is what FASS and Air Dog are using on their lift pumps. I’d prefer a regular hose Barb. Paveltolz says he’s using AN-6 fittings on his Air Dog, though I have yet to see pictures.
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I'd complain and cuss them to tears

I'd also leave terrible reviews.

That seems to strike a nerve. Might get something changed before I buy one
 
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