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6.5TD motorhome starting problem
- Thread starter Bezzer
- Start date
dbrannon79
I'm getting there!
what year is it? and what type of PCM connector does it have under the dash?
OBD1
OBD2
OBD1
OBD2
jrsavoie
Recruit
Install a toggle switch to run it whenever desired for diagnostics and priming
dbrannon79
I'm getting there!
for OBD2, you'll need to find the fuel pump relay under the hood and jumper pins 30 and 87. the pump should run iirc. for the older OBD1 systems there is a pin in the data connector you can apply positive power to and turn on the pump, that won't work for yours.
other than that, find the pump on the frame and disconnect it's connector, run a ground to the black wire and positive to the red wire on the pump connector. you can use a cordless drill battery to do this so long as it's a not a 20v battery. 12, 14, and 18v battery will work, just don't run it very long on an 18v battery.
other than that, find the pump on the frame and disconnect it's connector, run a ground to the black wire and positive to the red wire on the pump connector. you can use a cordless drill battery to do this so long as it's a not a 20v battery. 12, 14, and 18v battery will work, just don't run it very long on an 18v battery.
jrsavoie
Recruit
Some place handy when your working on.it.
On trucks, Suburbans I put it on the firewall right next to the underhood fuse box.
On the older vehicles, I put it by the load center. On the right side.
I'm not sure where I would put it on a motorhome. I use a safety toggle with the flip cover. I also use an inline fuse
Will L.
Well-Known Member
Usually people put a toggle switch somewhere close to the fuel filter because that’s where you use it most often. Install new filter, turn on switch until full and air bled out. Then turn off.
GM testing procedure calls for one pint every 15 seconds. The computer controlling the run time without oil pressure is why they set it that way.
In that time you should have a minimum of one pint.
Before the computers controlling it the instructions were running a jumper wire and filling up a 1 quart container that was made of glass and sealing it off to leave for settling test over the next hour for minor problems and overnight for major ones. Filling this 1 quart container the dealership had was supposed to take 30 seconds maximum.
Your lift pump is not producing the proper volume. It is not producing the proper pressure. It needs replacing.
We determined the hard start was heat related by use of the block heater. However continued operation of a weak lift pump will wear out the injection pump faster. So consider which is more critical for your use and address them both.
Either cycle the key 3 times before starting for the glow plug warming time or get the bolt on relay kit from Leroy Diesel and use a switch/ button to operate it. O one makes a kit with a timer -either people want to save money and diy or they want it to be automatic and send their ecm in for a reprogram extending glow time.
As to replacing the lift pump- your budget and use become the question.
Best thing out there is to use a Fass system including their filters and their fuel heater. Completely eliminating the GM ffm (fuel filter assembly). You sell the old on on ebay or here to recover a couple bucks.
At the same time if doing everything you can tor improvement- you could seap the fittings going into the ip for 3/8 instead of 5/16, however being fed from the FASS pump, I would run it in the larger size and reduce at the ip.
Next step down is keep factory filter system but install just the Fass pump without the filters.
Beyond that is cheaper and cheaper lift pumps as you go. But understand the cheaper ones live shorter lives and make the system struggle more.
In a pickup where the resale value is $5000, it’s hard to justify several hundred into the fuel system to eliminate future problems and extend life of the ip which is about $1,000 for parts.
In an RV, if you dont replace the ip yourself- labor costs often roll into the thousands. Same scenario for Hummers like mine. Labor often more than triple the cost of the parts. And resale value in hummers or rv makes dropping $1,000 into a new fuel system acceptable.
We can’t say which lift pump is stock for yours- have to post pictures to see.
Most common is the inline pumps and the best of those is the AC Delco EP158. But even brand new they barely hit minimum specifications, usually before year 2 is up they fall below spec.
GM testing procedure calls for one pint every 15 seconds. The computer controlling the run time without oil pressure is why they set it that way.
In that time you should have a minimum of one pint.
Before the computers controlling it the instructions were running a jumper wire and filling up a 1 quart container that was made of glass and sealing it off to leave for settling test over the next hour for minor problems and overnight for major ones. Filling this 1 quart container the dealership had was supposed to take 30 seconds maximum.
Your lift pump is not producing the proper volume. It is not producing the proper pressure. It needs replacing.
We determined the hard start was heat related by use of the block heater. However continued operation of a weak lift pump will wear out the injection pump faster. So consider which is more critical for your use and address them both.
Either cycle the key 3 times before starting for the glow plug warming time or get the bolt on relay kit from Leroy Diesel and use a switch/ button to operate it. O one makes a kit with a timer -either people want to save money and diy or they want it to be automatic and send their ecm in for a reprogram extending glow time.
As to replacing the lift pump- your budget and use become the question.
Best thing out there is to use a Fass system including their filters and their fuel heater. Completely eliminating the GM ffm (fuel filter assembly). You sell the old on on ebay or here to recover a couple bucks.
At the same time if doing everything you can tor improvement- you could seap the fittings going into the ip for 3/8 instead of 5/16, however being fed from the FASS pump, I would run it in the larger size and reduce at the ip.
Next step down is keep factory filter system but install just the Fass pump without the filters.
Beyond that is cheaper and cheaper lift pumps as you go. But understand the cheaper ones live shorter lives and make the system struggle more.
In a pickup where the resale value is $5000, it’s hard to justify several hundred into the fuel system to eliminate future problems and extend life of the ip which is about $1,000 for parts.
In an RV, if you dont replace the ip yourself- labor costs often roll into the thousands. Same scenario for Hummers like mine. Labor often more than triple the cost of the parts. And resale value in hummers or rv makes dropping $1,000 into a new fuel system acceptable.
We can’t say which lift pump is stock for yours- have to post pictures to see.
Most common is the inline pumps and the best of those is the AC Delco EP158. But even brand new they barely hit minimum specifications, usually before year 2 is up they fall below spec.
MrMarty51
Well-Known Member
I got that Air Dog system and I am happy that I jumped on that.
Finally got the two FP sending units functioning and now I’m even happier.
That shstem is well worth the cost and the effort to install it.
Finally got the two FP sending units functioning and now I’m even happier.
That shstem is well worth the cost and the effort to install it.