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6.5TD motorhome starting problem

Bezzer wrote back- 3-24 afternoon:
snarl95 Thanks for writing ...Fuel pressure gauge is plumb into the top of the fuel .
Never had any water or garbage in the filter being regularly changed .
Motorhome now has around 80,000 miles.

akadiesel...Where is the check valve in the AC Delco EP309 lift pump? This is the
one I have....it's the original installed.
The clear line has no bubbles or loss of fuel.

Will L....Exhaust pipe problem cleared up a long time ago.
Like you asked- I turned the key on....gauge goes right to 5 lbs. Did this three times.
Stayed until the engine started and gauge went to 4 lbs. Turned engine off.
Gauge started to drop down very slowly. And after 2 1/2 hrs it was down to
1 lb.
 
Bezzer said:
Will L.....just a reminder...I wrote the information you asked me to send you but haven't heard back from you. Please let me know when you have time! Thanks! Rodney
Click to expand...
Put an @ sign then without space type the name. That will send him notice to his email, that he got the calling. 😹
@Will L.

When You do that, several letters of the name and names similar will appear, one more letter of the name usually will clarify it, then just tap, or click on computer, the name produced and it will pop right in there.
 
Have an assistant crank the truck while you just crack open a high pressure fuel line. If there is a hesitation than pressurized fuel then there is air in the system. You can also try to crank the engine with the fuel return line disconnected and ran into an empt water bottle. If the engine starts then your fuel return line is restricted.
 
This is my signature info: 1996 Safari Trek 6.5TD motorhome with DS4 with electric drive by pedal.

Will L.: This is the "signature" that you asked for on post 12.

"type in the details there.
Year, make, model, include “RV”. Include ds4. Note weather it is a side mount turbo or center mount. Include any updates and modifications already done like clear return line, gauges, etc."

Bezzer answered Will L's on post 13 (below is a copy)

Problem still continues -hard to start after sitting overnight.

Here's the information you asked for: Electric drive by pedal.
Passenger side mounted turbo. Borg-Warner/HI GM 2

Clear line no bubbles except when not running bubble on top of hose.

K&N air filter

3" OD straight exhaust pipe (no muffler)

Leroy's fuel pressure system with 15 lb. gauge. (shows 5 lbs. when pumped up- takes 5 seconds to pump up and then stops)

Scan Gauge II monitor that connects to the OBD II that reads rpm- water temp- trans temp- voltage while driving.

New glow plug controller- New 60G glow plugs.

Just had original fuel injectors rebuilt.

9 blade GM fan with heavy duty clutch.

12 V battery boost.

Oil pressure driving 40 lbs/idle 20 lbs

4L80 transmission
****************************

I hope this will help?
 
MrMarty51: Sorry I couldn't figure out how to "quote a post" or what you described to bring my info to Will L.. The instructions for doing things on these posts is just not clear to me and the web page people don't have an an answer to help me.
This is a picture of my motorhome. Tried to reduce in many ways to add to left side and that never worked. It was always too big after down sizing the picture many time.
Hopefully Will L. is OK. He's helped me with info and tips for a long time. Maybe he's on a great vacation!
Appreciate your help! Thank You!
 

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Bezzer said:
Bezzer wrote back- 3-24 afternoon:
snarl95 Thanks for writing ...Fuel pressure gauge is plumb into the top of the fuel .
Never had any water or garbage in the filter being regularly changed .
Motorhome now has around 80,000 miles.

akadiesel...Where is the check valve in the AC Delco EP309 lift pump? This is the
one I have....it's the original installed.
The clear line has no bubbles or loss of fuel.

Will L....Exhaust pipe problem cleared up a long time ago.
Like you asked- I turned the key on....gauge goes right to 5 lbs. Did this three times.
Stayed until the engine started and gauge went to 4 lbs. Turned engine off.
Gauge started to drop down very slowly. And after 2 1/2 hrs it was down to
1 lb.
Click to expand...
Ok- after the 3 time key cycling: did it still start very poorly or did that make it a faster start?
I don’t remember - have you tried plugging in the block heater to make it start easier? If not, you need to do this. This will tell us it is a glow plug issue because heat solves the problem. If plugged in does not help then we are chasing either a fuel or compression issue.

Earlier asked about where is fuel pressure gauge tapped. You replied:
“
snarl95 Thanks for writing ...Fuel pressure gauge is plumb into the top of the fuel .
Never had any water or…”
I am guessing that is top of the fuel FILTER HOUSING? Like using the adapter Leroy diesel makes? If so, that is fuel inlet pressure to the filter housing before the filter. So a filter can be plugged and the pressure could read excellent but almost no fuel getting to the ip (injection pump).
Ideally we want to tap the fuel pressure at the ip inlet. Having both is good because you can read on a gauge when the filter is plugged up and needs replacing. Having it either place is better than none at all because you can tell if the LP (Lift Pump) is working or not. Yours is working but not where we want it.
Unfortunately the good LPs are expensive and the best LPs are crazy expensive.
So individuals decide how much to spend/ whats worth it to them.

If you don’t have the pressure gauge tapped at the ip inlet- need to get it there at least for a temporary test if nothing else.
Another basic test is disconnect the fuel hose at the ip inlet and put hose into a container. Have someone cycle on the key but not start it. Measure how many seconds it takes to get 1 quart of fuel. 1 pint in 15 seconds/1 quart in 30 seconds is required. Less than that and you need to replace filter/LP/something that is restricting..
 
GenBiltstein said:
Have an assistant crank the truck while you just crack open a high pressure fuel line. If there is a hesitation than pressurized fuel then there is air in the system. You can also try to crank the engine with the fuel return line disconnected and ran into an empt water bottle. If the engine starts then your fuel return line is restricted.
Click to expand...
Gen-
He only has it when cold starting and there is air coming out of the ip inlet the return line so air is not the issue.
 
ak diesel driver said:
If the fuel is draining back he should have air at start up. No air would indicate it's not draining back. So something is causing it to take 5 seconds to build pressure, maybe a bad LP
Click to expand...
I agree EXCEPT he said there is no air in the clear line. It is for sure fuel is draining back because of the pressure drop. But it isn’t all draining back enough to allow an air pocket. Basically it isn’t “draining” back as much as the pressure is pushing back a small amount of the fuel enough to drop SOME of the pressure but not all.

My idea is: So while this is a sign of a part wearing out, it wouldn’t be the cause for the hard start at this point.

Now if he is ASSUMING there is no air because none before starting and when it is running he gets out and looks a second time- rather than actually watching it and verified no bubbles while someone else is starting it… absolutely this could be the problem.

If someone else is starting it- especially after 3 key cycles to maximize pressure and there is no bubbles when ot starts cranking- the amount of air it takes to get into a few injectors will absolutely make air visible in the line before a no start occurs.

Surely wishin we could see this one in person. One of those “fine details” makes the difference
 
Will L..these are the questions you've asked me.....the 3 time key cycling did make a faster start. Took about 15 to 20 seconds.

When I plug in the block heater ....how long should I wait to start the engine?

I never had any water or crack in the filter or housing in 29 yrs. New - Filter has 300 miles on it.

I have the ds4 and it calls for 8 to 14 lbs. and I'm only getting 5 lbs..

Will L. -Here's what I am going to do next -take the motorhome out for a small monthly spin on this Sunday.....

Saturday I'll pull one 60G glow plug and ground it out and see the color after the glow plug light goes out (it usually takes 10 seconds for that) and do the same thing two more times to see if the color gets brighter.
Do you think this is a worth while thing to do????

Then I will look into the IP inlet project.
 
jrsavoie: You wrote: The pressure leak down has to be addressed.

Also run about 1/2 gallon of fuel outlet T drain and note the flow and fuel quality. - I do this about every time I work on something. It only takes a minute. And keeps the water trap cleared out.
****************************
I'm remarking about your statement above:: I already did this with about a quart of diesel running through the T drain and it flowed quickly and was clear .
 
I would not pull the one glow plug.

As to how long for block heater- over night will get it toasty and hurt nothing other than your power bill goes up $0.03. (Joking- no idea on poser bill- haha)

If the block heater 100% solves it- then chase the glow plugs and circuitry along with considering doing a few cycles each time or have the ECM reprogramed for longer times. I think it will start a little sooner but not probably is my guess.

Cycling the key had the glows heat the precup better, but also fed more fuel to the ip. Things are pointing towards the fuel supply to the ip.
If you have a different electric pump and could rig up a fuel can with separate pump getting pressure up north of 12psi and see of that helps, this would be ideal. Problem is thats not like a spare tire that everyone has laying around.
 
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