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Whose Fan clutch (aftermarket) kicks on earliest?

Matt Bachand said:
I have no AC so keep the ideas rollin. I'm just afraid doing this is beyond my ability to work on the truck over the weekend, and still be able to make money with it come monday.
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Your problem is because of your plow. They all do it. Mine does too . I keep the plow almost touching the ground straight which seems to help the most. No fan is going to fix it. The plow simply blocks the air. I have to be carefully when I'm rolling down the hwy too. Even gassers and other diesels will do it.. I got a 8.5 foot diamond(fisher knock off) hangin off the front and it blocks all air.
 
Acesneights1 said:
Your problem is because of your plow. They all do it. Mine does too . I keep the plow almost touching the ground straight which seems to help the most. No fan is going to fix it. The low simply blocks the air. I have to be carefully when I'm rolling down the hwy too.
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Well, a lockable clutch would defanately fix it. Meaning I could switch it on and off.

The OEM ALMOST fixes it, but as mentinoed, I need to really slow down the rpms for it to allow it to engage. (This OEM I bought new from stealer few years back).

If Kennedy/Heath superduty are calibrated significantly lower, I think it should work. If not, A temp Aux electric fan will be mounted. I don't even think it would need to be large, just large enough to blow some heat at the clutch to engage the real fan.

When my clutch engages, temps drop safe fast. Its just a matter of getting that to engage.

Last year I got comfortable with 210-212 saying engines strong, things running good.... Took it up on the highway and my valve let go in the head... Probably a coincedence, but who knows... All I know is i'm scared shitless to lose my truck at 210. Anything higher I'll pull over.
 
How do you carry the blade when your driving ? I have found straight and low as possible has worked best for me so far. Problem with our trucks is they sit so low to the ground that you can't lower the plow enough to get air in. Even the gassers have the same problem. The town trucks do the same thing on the highway and they are all gassers.
 
Missy
Would those fans & fan clutches on the old 454s that came on at 210 degrees or or so fit on any of the 6.5 s ?
 
Acesneights1 said:
How do you carry the blade when your driving ? I have found straight and low as possible has worked best for me so far. Problem with our trucks is they sit so low to the ground that you can't lower the plow enough to get air in. Even the gassers have the same problem. The town trucks do the same thing on the highway and they are all gassers.
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I do have a ziptie chained to a certain lnk so I can hook it up for highway use, leaving it barely off the ground.

But, Last season i put a brand new 8" cutting edge on it,
meaning i can't leave it low enough

and, it's a 9' so if I leave it straight it sticks dangerously far out on each side, not to mention over the 8'6" limit for width... Then when I need to angle it to maneuver around/tight spots, it drags considerably when its that low.

Not to mention I fear it catching on manholes/cracks when hitting bumps as trucks do sit very low.

My plow has been severly welded too, which increased its already heavy weight another couple hundred pounds.

My new skins will prbably net me an inch higher, this year.

Also, I'm not sure how much engineering goes into airflow on plows, but my entire face/top was re-constructed via weld, so not sure if that changed my airflow or not from a factory setup. Its a Fisher 9'.

Pretty sure SuperDuty clutch will engage in time for me. Its not like I even go fast with it on, it just blocks all airflow, and I have a few nasty hills that I need to climb without any logical way around them to get to certain customers houses, brother in-laws specifically, so i can't blow him off either, as thats where I always fix my truck with supervision of his mechanic which works out of his yard. (The guy that fixed my head)...(and screwed up my injectors, lol)...
 
A small adapter would make them work.

Turn up a piece of round stock that would allow the large pilot to fit and then use falt head allen bolts to fasten it to the 6.5 clutch.
The adapter would need the smaller pilot on the front side and the smaller bolt circle between the others for the gasser clutch to bolt too.

Easy little part to make. Take an hour or so to whip it up.

The 6.2 flange is even smaller. They did this so it was impossible to swap serp stuff and non serp stuff.
The two rotate in different directions.

The 6.2 pump back plates are different too than the 6.5 , one has an extra bolt.

Anything can be adapted with a little work.

The late 6.5 screw on fan hub is different than the stuff used on the powerstroke.

A powerstroke fan and clutch would work well too. But ya still need the proper flange.

Fouled again eh??

MGW
MGW
 
Matt Bachand said:
I have no AC so keep the ideas rollin. I'm just afraid doing this is beyond my ability to work on the truck over the weekend, and still be able to make money with it come monday.
Click to expand...


Matt, since you have no A/C condenser in the way, stick a couple electric pusher fans up there. Even if they wouldn't completely cool it, they'd get the hot air to the fan clutch so it would engage.
 
midniteplowboyy said:
Matt, since you have no A/C condenser in the way, stick a couple electric pusher fans up there. Even if they wouldn't completely cool it, they'd get the hot air to the fan clutch so it would engage.
Click to expand...

That there is a thinking man's idea... nice work, Midniteplowboyy!!
 
midniteplowboyy said:
Matt, since you have no A/C condenser in the way, stick a couple electric pusher fans up there. Even if they wouldn't completely cool it, they'd get the hot air to the fan clutch so it would engage.
Click to expand...

JiFaire said:
That there is a thinking man's idea... nice work, Midniteplowboyy!!
Click to expand...

Sure is! Thats a guaranteed way to make it work is right. I wonder if I should just try that route before/instaed of Kennedy diesel clutch.
 
I have used fans off the Ford Taurus. you can fit two of them on the diesel radiator. I get them from the bone yard for short money. You just need some high amp relays to run them. They have a high and a low setting as well.
 
I don't want so much that I'm compromising stock cooling ability either. I 'm thinking just one small one, like mentioned, enough to blow the heat onto the radiator.
 
Careful with electric cooling fans in front of the rad. They need to be able to move more air than natural airflow at highway speed or they can actually block air. In otherwords air could move faster than the fan will allow.

Missy,
Waitin for that extensive write up on your clutch setup. PArt #s etc. That would make a really good thread. don't tease us and walk away...:D
 
Back a little bit in this thread I spelled it out fairly well.
The part number, Hortons web site link and basically what has to be done to make the setup work

The Horton clutch was made for the T444E (Power stroke) and is an electric clutch not unlike an AC clutch

Actually I think this clutch and its other incarnations will fit several IH engines.

The rotation is the big issue.
Loads of clutches available but they are designed for the wrong rotation.

The most work is the swapping of the flange from a used PS water pump onto the 6.5 pump.

The shaft size is the same so thats not an issue.

I used a HO pump from the early design (4 bolt flange)

Use flange from a T444E or Power stroke

Once the flange is located on the pump thats about all there is to that part.

The serp pulley neeeds to have the center hole bored out to allow it to fit over the threaded hub on the new flange.

The bolt holes in the pulley also need to be slotted IIRC (Been a while)

This is all very simple machine shop stuff that takes little
time to do (if you have the tools)

The Horton clutch comes with all the needed wiring harness and such to hook it up.

A switched source of 12V with ample amperage (Fused)

The temp switch can be fitted to a couple of places in the engine.

RH rear of the RH head.
Use the RH top block off plate.
Place a TEE in the LH head front port (Temp sender port)

The fan from a 94 or 95 6.5 and possibly others (Metal fan) will fit right onto the Horton Clutch as is.

One will need to fashion a little bracket up top for the tie strap on the Horton to fasten to.

This is a piece of heavy webbing that keeps the electric coil part of the clutch from spinning. (Whats needed will be obvious when looking at the unit)

Afte this the rest is an easy bolt on job.

One will need the special plate wrenches to tighten the clutch to the hub and to hold the pulley from turning

These could be made from some 1/4" steel plate and cut with a band saw or just buy the tools off the specialty rack at the NAPA store.

Pretty much a no brainer from here.

The touchy part is removing the flange from the new GM Pump and then replacing it with the flange from the Ps pump

Just have to be sure not to damage the bearing and seal in the pump is all.

MGW
 
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Very nice. I like this ALOT. This is the best mod I've seen for cooling. Thing I like about this is you could put a manual override switch on it like the Pete's have.
 
Missy,
If you fabricated this, I am sure other unskilled people (like myself) would buy this cooling mod.

Todd
 
Thing I like is that the kit comes with one.

All ya gots to do is drill the hole in the dash and put the switch in.

Its already been designed into the wiring harness that comes with the thing.

I thought about doing that. The issue is the cost for the stuff and what it would take to market the thing.

This is not a cheap setup at all.
The cost of the clutch is $500 Plus then the Pump, the pulley, the mods to the parts.

Not to mention that I would have to make a $$$$$$$$$$$$$ or so

This would likely be a $1000 package after it was done.

I did it cuae I wanted to see if it could be done.
I stopped short of installing it because of the AC issue.

For one driver with the skills to manage the system it would be fine.

Until I get the AC airflow thing resolved I am holding off.

The fan clutch part is the easy part.

Possibly an electric AUX fan to help the condenser air flow.?????/

MGW
 
Put your brains together and lets figure out a way to do this with the existing clutch/mounting type so no need to press onto Waterpump!!!!!!
 
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