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Whose Fan clutch (aftermarket) kicks on earliest?

Missy Good Wench said:
For special applications this is sweet.

I made one up and have it sitting on the shelf. The only reason its not on the rig now is that I have yet to work out the final details of keeping the AC system working when the fan is off.

Need a port into the AC high side to activate the fan when pressure exceeds 250PSI

Also really need some air constantly for the AC condenser to work right.
Click to expand...

Hey MGW and Matt Im sure you know some gasser trucks like duallies had a extra electric cooling fan on them. It is a pusher fan and mounts where to oil cooler is. Got mine at the dealer. It is a direct bolt on. Just need to wire it up. The connector off a old LP will plug right into it. I put two of them on my Cummins conversion, since the Cummins has the oil cooler built into the block it freed up that space for a fan. I relocated the trans cooler and put a second fan there. As it turns out I think one would do the job. The Cummins seems to run cool naturaly.
Anyway the point is you guys might be able to use something like that.??


As far as making something like the electric clutch to sale I think a manufactuer could not profit from it, BUT I also think It is a very cool idea, just can't see alot of pepole spending $1000 for this mod on a $3000-$5500 truck.
 
Think it would cost that much ?
I never loved electric fans. I played with them on my motorhome but that had idling/stuck in traffic problems so in that case it worked but at highway speed the fan must move more air than natural flow or it can actually block air. ON my camper I had it on a toggle because if I forgot it on rolling down the highway the thing would actually overheat because it was blocking incoming air . I'm not saying they won't work, just that it must be matched properly to the amount of airflow naturally produced.
I don't think it cost MGW that muc and she had to fab everythig which leads me to believe Horton could do it cheaper but ya don't know if ya don't ask...I didn't ask cause I'm not a vendor or looking to vbecome one but I truly believe if you could get that clutch/fan setup out the door for under 5 beans, people would buy it. I'm not rich and I would in a second.
 
Acesneights1 said:
Think it would cost that much ?
but I truly believe if you could get that clutch/fan setup out the door for under 5 beans, people would buy it. I'm not rich and I would in a second.
Click to expand...

Well as Robyn said the part alone is $500 plus all the running around doing machine work, misc parts, labor, RISK, everything considered. Don't be offended, but just to make the point, you are willing to pay $500 for a turn key mod, well the parts cost more than that. So thats why I think no one would by this mod at a price that would make it worth the manufactuers investment.

Why not remove the mechanical fan all together and install electric pullers?
Hook them to a toggle switch?
 
Burning oil said:
Why not remove the mechanical fan all together and install electric pullers?
Hook them to a toggle switch?
Click to expand...

Because an electric fan that moved as much air as a mechanical fan with a good clutch on it would need a lot of juice, which would mean you would need a better alternator= more $$$$. The fun never ends.
 
No use tossing out hopefully-lucrative ideas vis a vis electric fans being better than the oem stock fan

A - loaded Diesel engines put out three times the BTU of an unloaded engine - equiv displacement gasser engines (patooie!) cannot even come close to that
- this Diesel engine has specific heating problems, due to the pre-combustion chambers
- note the heighth of the di Cummins block, visualizing the size of that water jacket - the cc is in the oil-cooled piston crown, and note also the size of the radiator and the open configuration of that body\engine compartment, so, all things considered, yes, they do run cooler, naturally

B - electric fans are rated free-air cfm, meaning they are clamped in an old Wilton vise in an open shop, battery on the floor next to the pedestal, nothing in front or behind the fan while it's running - this is done to get the big ratings - put a radiator in front and the cfm drops by ~75% - so.......

C - it would take 4 of those fans to begin to equal the oem mechanical fan at idle

D - an aux electric pusher fan would help in slow-moving traffic conditions, as mentioned, but would also need to run at hiway speeds because it would block required airflow, also mentioned

E - no combination of electric fans will effectively substitute for the 195hp oem factory fan setup on the 6.5, unless..........

D - you have a 1500 Tahoe that pulls itself outta the driveway every day with a single passenger, that and a bag or two of groceries being the greatest loading it will ever see

Even at that, I'd be hesitant about leaving home without the factory setup

So, oem factory - yes - adjust the thermo strip for suitable turn-on

Heath industrial\commercial rated - yes - ditto if required

Horton\equiv - yes - MGW described suitable conversion technique - B-O-P-C all used hi-pressure switches in their ac systems - Chev did not

Electric wanna-be fans - caveat emptor: only your engine will know for sure................
 
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Burning oil said:
Well as Robyn said the part alone is $500 plus all the running around doing machine work, misc parts, labor, RISK, everything considered. Don't be offended, but just to make the point, you are willing to pay $500 for a turn key mod, well the parts cost more than that. So thats why I think no one would by this mod at a price that would make it worth the manufactuers investment.

Why not remove the mechanical fan all together and install electric pullers?
Hook them to a toggle switch?
Click to expand...

Ok But you guys are missing my point. Robyn even said Horton USED to make one. They could make a bolt on kits for less than that if someone were will to buy a quantity of them not just one. What that quantity is I don't know cause I'm not a dealer and I didn't ask. I'm just saying for a dealer, A phone call costs nothing and the folks at Horton are very freindly and want to sell new products. What Missy did cost over that because she had to fab everything plus buying the clutch. I'm talking an out of the box ready Horton. They supposedly used to make one. Do I have to make this phone call...:D
If so I better get one heck of a discount. I'm saying "If" you could you would have the market cornered because I doubt Heath would bother since he has his own solution with the Dmax.
This would be a real solution to the overheating problems that these truck are plagued with. I know I own two.
 
TD would probably know the best. BTW I am in no way pushing you to sell electric Horton fan setups for my own personal gain...:bs2:):h
 
Well, the weight of the oem engine-driven fan is certainly the most important specification that the 6.5 engineers were given to consider - couldn't have been the 10000cfm rating at full clutch - and that's in the shroud behind the radiator and ac condensor........

Thats a quote from GMCTD from this good read link.

http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=235733&highlight=volvo+fan
 
Here is another option.

Now as much as I am not a Real fan of the PSD (had a 97 that was a real POS)
The fan and clutch always worked well.

The PSD fan and clutch can be retro fitted to the GM pump in the same way as the Horton can.

Swap the flange, screw on the PSD fan and clutch. Poof , done.

I am not sure on the diameter of the PSD fan, but thats what tools are for. Hack the shroud if need be.

Another tid bit.

I tried a stainless flex fan once. Noisy as all get out and basically a sharp SOB that solved nothing.

The factory propeller :D will suck enough air to pull in all the bugs from 10 miles around.

They work, its just that GM chose to make the clutch engage at such a high temp.

From what I can glean from speaking with some techs and service managers, GM made this decision as a result of customer complaints about the noise of the fan when it comes on at road speed when pulling a grade.

Foolish decission indeed.

The older HD gassers (3500 and some 2500 trucks and Burbs with 454) would spool up the fan as soon as the water temp crept even close to 210.
They howled like Hell but the engine temp dropped like a rock even at high ambient temps.


AIR FLOW __AIR FLOW__ AIRFLOW its all about moving huge amounts of air through the radiator fins.

The other issue is that if the heat can't get out of the water (radiator core skunked up) the fan clutch will not see the heat and will not engage.

A new Visteon radiator is $245 at the rad shop here locally.

Best $$$$ one can spend on a rig with high miles.

Dump the coolant and flush, replace the radiator and refill with clean green and go.
 
Missy Good Wench said:
Here is another option.


The older HD gassers (3500 and some 2500 trucks and Burbs with 454) would spool up the fan as soon as the water temp crept even close to 210.
They howled like Hell but the engine temp dropped like a rock even at high ambient temps.


.
Click to expand...

This might be a dumb question, but without the two to compair next to each other I do not know the answer. Question is, can you put the gasser fan clutch on the 6.5?. Pro and cons?
 
Missy Good Wench said:
Here is another option.


The other issue is that if the heat can't get out of the water (radiator core skunked up) the fan clutch will not see the heat and will not engage.

A new Visteon radiator is $245 at the rad shop here locally.

Best $$$$ one can spend on a rig with high miles.

Dump the coolant and flush, replace the radiator and refill with clean green and go.
Click to expand...

Been there, Done that, didn't help.
 
Burning oil said:
This might be a dumb question, but without the two to compair next to each other I do not know the answer. Question is, can you put the gasser fan clutch on the 6.5?. Pro and cons?
Click to expand...

There really I don't think is any difference per say, gasser vs diesel except that the obvious , the fan is designed to fit that engines characteristics. Ie:
If the triton fan I wnated to try worked better. no issue. I just don't think it will after hearing some opinions on the turbulance that may occur with it being further in the shroud but H ave no data to back it up and it wasn't worth 100$ to me to try. I bought the Hayden severe duty clutch for the factory 9 blade that is on my 2000 which I am going to switch with the 95 to see if it helps any. I had a long detailed conversation with Bill H on this whole thing. He thinks the clutch may be a dud. He is sending me a whole new assbly which may have been my issue all along. That is why buying from Heath is always the best choice because he is still there after the sale and will work with you until your problem is solved. It only came up because I ordered the WMI from him and although he thinks it's a good idea for me he still thinks I have another problem. He looked up what he sold me and said I should not be having a problem so we are "trying" another fan. If that doesn't do it well...call the preist for the exorcism. However, that said, Missy I still think you created the greatest upgrade I have ever seen with that Horton setup. I don't get impressed all that easily that impresses the hell outta me. Being a truck driver for many years I have seen first hand how good those full lock up clutches work(until they fail of course but anything can fail eventually).
 
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