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What is it? The diesel suddenly knocks!

Can you have an oil anayisis done there?
Drain the oil and inspect for metal shavings. Does oil have foam in it? Milky? How does it smell?
Drop oil pan and inspect, front axle is easy to remove.
 
Will L. said:
Look at the flywheel to rule it out, also check the torque converter bolts. Hopefully you get lucky. Then try using a flywheel turner to see if you can rotate the crankshaft from that location. Then try turning crankshaft from the balancer location. (checking for a broken crankshaft).
Click to expand...

Do this first.

Also pull all the glow plugs then try and rotate the engine in case the engine hydro locked. Glow plug condition like one being broken can tell you something. (A broken glow plug usually gets smashed up without locking up the engine. Unless it breaks a valve.)

Then if that doesn't help because of the noise just pull the engine. It likely has to come out anyway. It is easier than dropping other things to check on the engine. I would pull the engine with the manifolds and heads on as it saves time getting to those bolts in chassis.
 
Just curious with the current political climate for example: takeover of a country and the NASA International Space Station rides we fund... Not that I am asking or debating that.

Do you have any trouble getting parts for the 6.5 diesels? I mean more than usual?
 
Oh, the political climate! My opinion is Mr. Putin was crazy.
Now there are no problems with the payment and shipping of parts. But these problems can be.
 
When you pulled the valve covers, did you make sure there is no free play in the pushrods & rockers? Doing that rules out valve train except cam and chain.

What can cause that massive knock, then lock up the engine, and is repairable without pulling the engine? Like I said, check the flywheel/ flex plate. Once the valve train is ruled out-out comes the engine.

Maybe check the timing chain, it could lock things up, but how would that cause that knock? I wouldn't think that's it. If it is the cam, the bearings will be toast and engine comes out.

Why go through pulling the oil pan? Find something broken in there and out comes the engine. With the engine locked up a valve could be one with a piston, and the oilpan drop shows nothing. Just extra work IMO. Do it on a stand where it's easier and faster. One rusted on nut to pull the axle can add hours of aggravation and I can't see how getting in the pan will put him on the road quicker or cheaper. A 2wd where its a fast drop then maybe just to know if its worth it to buy a complete engine if the mains blew out or 2-3 pieced the crank.

Same with oil sample: Doesn't matter how high or low metals are in the oil, damage is done and locked up. A sample cant show difference in broken crank, or cam. Sample can't show if it sucked a valve or popped a wrist pin. It doesn't matter about an oil sample, lets say really high metals are found, or very low metals are found- then what? The engine is locked up, so rip it apart.

I don't like to be a "negative Nellie" but with this engine history, that knock, then locked up? Sorry but it's a tear down and pray moment.
 
WarWagon said:
Do this first.

Also pull all the glow plugs then try and rotate the engine in case the engine hydro locked. Glow plug condition like one being broken can tell you something. (A broken glow plug usually gets smashed up without locking up the engine. Unless it breaks a valve.)

Then if that doesn't help because of the noise just pull the engine. It likely has to come out anyway. It is easier than dropping other things to check on the engine. I would pull the engine with the manifolds and heads on as it saves time getting to those bolts in chassis.
Click to expand...

Well. The flywheel is good and bolts too. The crankshaft is not crack. Tomorrow I'll pull the glow plugs. But I think the problem is in the rod bearings.
 
I assembled this engine two weeks ago and drove very little, maybe 10 miles. What do you think need I to put the new head gaskets after repair?
 
Ok. I try to tell about it. This diesel I bought last winter. There condition was "unknown". I have it all desassembled. You can remerbe my winters poct. When I removed the pistons, I do not put on short hoses on the bolts and the two journals were the litle nicks from bolts. But signs of wear on the crankshaft I have not seen. My friend said that I can polish a nicks with superfine sandpaper that it does not ride up bearings cup. The first I polished edge nicks. Then I put a piece of sandpaper to the old bearing cup and litle polishing around all journal. Nothing unusual in the assembly of the engine was not. As usual. This is not the first diesel engine, which I repaired and assembled.
Sorry for my english. This text is difficult for me. Sometimes helped me Mr. Google
 
Yup, out she comes. Check the valves in that cylinder also incase they hit the piston- if it turned so far they missed the relief cut in the top of the piston.
 
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